Does anybody out there know if I have to drop the fuel tank to get the pump out, or is there an access panel up top i should be looking for?

89 5.0 RS stalling, and left me stranded on fwy on sunday, had to tow it home. It did same earlier in year, dealership couldnt figure it out, so they just replaced computer ($600-ouch) obviously waste of money. My gut feel was fuel pump (140K Miles, orig owner) so I alreday had bought one (it is sitting in trunk of car now&then) and suggested they start there...but they didnt.

anyhow, F-them, I will replace it now, to at least eliminate that variable to the stall, wont-run problem. Any other insight and suggestions are appreciated. Thanks

:(

There is no easy way to get to the fuel pump without dropping the tank. In some cases you will also need to remove the exhaust as well.

might sound nasty but i done this for a fella that didn't mind me cutting a small hole in the trunk. i made a gasket outta rubber and used self tapping screws to bolt a piece of metal back on. i done a very nice job that should've been done at factory anyways and he loved it. it was fast and easy too. the reason i done it this way cause he asked me what would be the fastest and easiest way and i told and showed him. the proper way would be the hard way, and yes, you have to drop the rear end and depending on the exaust you may have to drop that too. i've done a few and they are a pain in the poop shoot just to get at the damn fuel pump.

I've heard of several folks adding "access plates" inside the trunk for these cars.

before you go and change your fuel pump you might wanna check your ignition module. its the small black box under your distributor. i've had two camaro's that's done the same thing to me and both times i've dropped the gas tank and changed the pump to no avail. once in a while the car would just stop for no reason and not start, i could go back a day later and bang it'd start!!it wouldn't happen again for a few weeks or a month or two, but then out of the blew it would do it again until it finally went for good. but even then, it would always start for a second and stall. if this sounds familiar than check that first. you can check it with a test light on one of your injectors, or just change it. its not hard and very quick. almost any gm one will work, even the mpfi 2.8's. i think as long as its fuel injected.
GOOD LUCK!!!!!!!!

thanks for all the feedback!!

I have heard the "ignition module" advice before, that seems like the easiest one, so i'll do that first!!

I was afraid id have to drop the tank...got to cut exhaust etc, what a chore

I like suggestion of creating access hole, my only fear is accidentally cutting into the tank when creating the hole!!

thanks for all the feedback!!

I have heard the "ignition module" advice before, that seems like the easiest one, so i'll do that first!!

I was afraid id have to drop the tank...got to cut exhaust etc, what a chore

I like suggestion of creating access hole, my only fear is accidentally cutting into the tank when creating the hole!!

Don't forget about dropping the rear, and the panhard bar and brace, and all of the exhaust heat shields. I don't think the access panel is a good idea due to the length of hard line attached to the unit. It would have to be pretty large to clear it all. Good luck! The last one I did had a full tank too.

I have changed lots of them at work you have to remove the exhaust and drop the rearend to remove the tank. I have always changed them on a lift and let the rear axle hang down from the control arms. The tank is still tough to get out after all this you have to turn and twist it to get the filler neck out of the 1/4 pannel. If you are planing on doing this on the floor you are going to be in for a LONG DAY! The factory did not put in access panels from what I have been told it has to do with safety in a wreck. I have never cut a access pannel in one so I am not sure if it would work for all years. It would depend on how the fuel lines go into the sending unit, if they disconnect right at the sender that could work but I would try to get a look at the parts book and see how the lines come off, if they are one soild line from the sender to the filter a hole in the floor will not help you. I would not want to have to change one on the floor with jack stands. Good luck.

ok changed the ignition module...didnt fix the stumble-stall, not want to run problem. I can hear the fuel pump spin on initial key activation. What is the best way to check the fuel pressure? Where is best spot to put a gage on the line, and what is the pressure supposed to be?

Thanks for any advice...I would likely not be here, except that i tore my garage down to build a new one, and all my service manuals and tools are in storage!!

Zimm

Cutting hole in trunk with tank in to get to pump = BOOM.

You measure it with a fuel pressure gauge. There is a fitting on the fuel rail. Go buy a shop manual. Guessing & hoping is an expensive way to fix a car. Good luck.

cut the hole dude, i promise it'll be easy. the lines have rubbers clamped on the end,well mine did any way. unclamp them or if at worse cut them. the tank lock can be a bugger sometimes but shouldn't be hard at all, then pull the thing out. trust me, theirs no easier way. but test the preasure first.

chadrafuse, I don't think that is good advice. He doesn't know how to test fuel pressure, you want him to get loose with a wizzer wheel ~1" from the fuel tank????

To each his own, I guess.

you guyz (bozohansen-chadrafuse) are funny...it is TBI car, no fuel log. I have a manual, it is in storage...read my last comment...I do know how to check fuel pressue, but you failed to answer my Q to What should it be, and where is most conveinant spot to do so. looks like you dont know, or you didnt read. Thanks a bunch for all the stories and advice, it is a bit more entertaining than NOT consulting with fellow f-body owners!!
Ill figure out the pressure test, and post-back with the results...whatever it turns out to be.

Hey, good luck with the attitude. Comments like that are why a lot of guys ignore non-1st gen threads.

I just re-read all of your posts; I didn't see a TBI reference anywhere. Not all 5.0 are TBI. And your last post included "What is the best way to check the fuel pressure?”, which indicated to me you might not know how.

I did miss the part about the manuals in storage. The manual will have the specs, and will likely show where to install a test gauge. Go to your local library. They often have Mitchell Manuals in the ref section.

"Hey, good luck with the attitude. Comments like that are why a lot of guys ignore non-1st gen threads"

FYI: no RS came with TPI, i also prefer my 67SSRS to this 3rd gen car

You wanna buy it? it is really clean one owner, and seems like you know how to fix it in a jiffY.

It was the fuel pump. I found a good mechanic through my muffler guy. To properly check the fuel pressure on this TBI car, a special tool is required that plugs into the myrad of fuel lines and return lines on the car. Big job, glad they did it on a lift while i was at work. It also required disconnecting rear brakeline, in addition to everything else. Thanks for all the advice.

Glad you got it fixed. I cut the hole in the 93 and changed the pump. It was a snap. I used a dremel. It may take a little longer but you won't cut deep enough to even touch the tank. I made a plug out of the flap I cut out. I put rubber gasket material on it and used some weatherstrip adhesive to seal it shut. Worked slick as a ribbon.