Hi,

It just might be my english but I have not found out what is the difference between wash and etch primer although there is a number of excellent topics around here by some serious professionals.

What is the difference between wash and etch primer? Are they to be used together wash first then etch? Can they be used alone, and if so which to use and why? I basically understand what they do (acid ethces metal to provide good adhesion and corrosion protection), but have not found out the difference between the two. I have looked at F379 and F397(6?).

I will be painting my car in the near future, and it would be great if someone could give me a total paint system (breakdown including paint codes) from PPG. I asked around at our local paint shop and first of all they dont even sell DP90 around europe its DP40, and in next year whole Europe will be using water based carpaints! They would want me to use DP40 directly on metal, but I wanted to use the acid primers first.

Just give your paitcodes I'll try to match them up. The main line here is that I want to have good corrosion protection, and have to go to DELFLEET line since they are not allowed to sell good acid primers in the car paint line.


Thanks!

Etch primers are mainly made for cars Wash primer is mainly made for manufactureing when you are going to prime and paint something that doesnt require block sanding and such.you can use either on your car though,they do the same thing.Also there isnt any difference in dp40 and dp90 other than dp40 is green and contains some zinc and dp90 is black but I dont think contains zinc,someone correct me if Im wrong.There are 4 or 5 different color dp primers ,the numbers only designate the color.PPG is the norm when it comes to paint in the US maybe you need to use something that is the norm in Finland.Do they use Glasurit or Spies Hecker over there?

Thanks for the info! I will have to go with PPG paints (about 60% market share in Europe) since I can get them from my local painter. He mainly does collision repair so this is why I have troubled you guys with this question, you have probably painted more camaros than he has ever seen!

He's been doing this for 20 years and has done things his way, fresh opinnions/experiences are more than welcome for me! What paints would you use (PPG line) when painting your car? The car will be sandblasted / sanded to bare metal.

I have taken my 67 down to bare metal and am first gonna was it with PPG metal cleaner 575 I think is the number? Its 1 part cleaner with 2 parts water, apply and let sit for a few min. and rinse. water should rinse off uniform. Then clean with PPG bug and tar remover and hit it with PPG DP40. I believe as well that the only difference in the DP line is the numbers represent a different color. Also you might wanna be careful with sanblasting as it can warp the metal if not careful and cause a nightmare! I dont like sand because it gets EVERYWHERE and is hard to get rid of it after done!

My PPG painting path is:
Take to bare metal
DX1791 Etch primer
DP90 Epoxy primer (but as stated the number is just the color)
K38 Primer (for blocking)
Then base coat/clear coat (I haven't gotten that far yet, so I'm not sure, but I believe it's the Delstar 2000.)

gwbutch, great! Just what I was looking for, all paint codes and their painting order.

More, please!

PS I only thought about blasting underside of the car not the roof/fenders/doors.

:beers: Well, I am far from being an expert at body work/painting. My thoughts on painting are to first epoxy paint (DP90) everything. If you are going to bare metal, first use the etch primer (DX1791). If you are not going to go to bare metal, than just scuff the existing paint and epoxy over. If you are serious about corrosion protection, though, I'd take all the paint off to see what condition the metal is in. You may have some hidden rust.

Once the epoxy is on, then start your body work. Add your body filler after the epoxy. For body filler, I'm using Evercoat's Rage Gold. Adding body filler on bare metal or on top of epoxy has been discussed several times. I like the idea of putting it on after the epoxy, and then epoxy over the body filler again. After the body filler, use a body glaze. I'm going to be using Evercoat's Metal Glaze. Again, epoxy over the filler.

Once the body work is done, scuff the epoxy and spray K38 High Build Primer/Surfacer. Now, what's the difference between a primer and a surfacer? I don't know. I haven't gotten that far yet. Any way, time to block and block and block and block and block, and a little more blocking. Ok, now that it's flat where it's supposed to be flat, spray you base coat and clear coat. I'm going with Deltron 2000, because I am going to be spraying a metallic. As I said before, though, I haven't gotten that far, so I don't know all those details.

For the underside of my car, I used POR-15.

Others may be able to give you some better advice. Like I said, I'm a novice. This is the first time I've ever painted, but so far, it's looking pretty good. :D

Related links:
http://www.evercoat.com/
http://www.ppg.com/cr-refinish/phase1/frmPickRegion.asp
http://www.por15.com/

Good luck. :beers:

how good is eastwoods etch primer would it be conpatable

I deleted it Rob

Butch,

A primer is an adhesion builder that has no build, won't fill a thing. A surfacer is a filler, won't stick to steel at all. First the primer then the surfacer, or the modern way, both together.

dan