Basket Case [Archive] - Team Camaro Tech

: Basket Case


Gignem
Feb 23rd, 06, 08:20 PM
I recently purchased a '67 from a guy that has owned the car for the past 6 years and has done extensive work to the car but never finished. What I ended up with is a shell that is solid all the way around. Fenders, hood, valance, header panel, trunk lid, and rear quarters have all been replaced. The car has been shot with primer, but there is still some work to be done on the seems where the rear quarters were installed. It appears that the guy used a body panel epoxy/adhesive on the seams (where the quarter meets the roof sail panel and where the quarter meets the rear panels). I would like to smooth out the seams and add some filler to smooth out these panels. I am looking for help on what the best process for doing this is. I am a virgin when it comes to body work, but would like to do as much as possible on my own. Also, are there any good resources (manual or video) that would help?

67ptcamaro
Feb 23rd, 06, 09:30 PM
If you can add some picks we would help you as much as we can.
Did the guy left the led filler on the sails where it meets the roof?
Some picks would be very good to tell you what to do.

Gignem
Feb 23rd, 06, 09:41 PM
I'll take some pics when I get off of work tomorrow. It appears that the seam is below where the original panel met the roof. Thanks for the help.

paintdaddy
Feb 24th, 06, 02:23 AM
I have used that adhesive for panel replacement also.One you have got to do is try to remove as much of it from the face of the metal.You need to wipe kitty hair over it ,sand it somewhat smooth and then start doing body work with fillers and glazes.That adhesive on the 1/4 is not supposed to have any fillers put over them but there is almost no way to use them with out using fillers over them.So like I said just remove as much as you can until it is hardly visible.

Gignem
Feb 24th, 06, 05:41 PM
Ok, here are some pics. As you can see, the body is in primer, but the quarter seams were never smoothed out. According to the previous owner he used a ppg primer like that used in body shops, but I don't know if I'll need to strip it back down or if I can work with it from here. The only filler that I can see is on the seems between the back windo and trunk. I can see some cracks in the primer on one side and the filler appears to be real chalky when I scraped into it. Being a rookie to this, I don't know what approach I should take.

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e400/Gignem/ee4484dc.jpg
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e400/Gignem/IMG_0633.jpg
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e400/Gignem/IMG_0624.jpg
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e400/Gignem/IMG_0627.jpg

Gignem
Feb 24th, 06, 05:58 PM
Couple of other pics

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e400/Gignem/IMG_0625.jpg
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e400/Gignem/IMG_0647.jpg
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e400/Gignem/IMG_0646.jpg

mxquattro
Feb 24th, 06, 07:29 PM
Whoa. You have a lot of work ahead of you. Not insurmountable though so dont get discouraged. Personally I would take down the primer, it isnt meant to be exposed for very long so already its off to a bad start. Also the weld or seam seal doesnt seem complete, I see holes in it. I would find someone with a TIG and finish that seam, then start your bodywork. Cant wait to see the finished product!

Gignem
Feb 24th, 06, 08:14 PM
Do I have to use TIG? Is there anything else that would do the trick? Also, what is the best way to remove the primer?

mxquattro
Feb 24th, 06, 08:39 PM
no you dont HAVE to use a TIG. A TIG keeps the heat localized and wont warp the surrounding metal as much. As for getting rid of the primer, you can user your DA or maybe a chemical strip.

67ptcamaro
Feb 25th, 06, 12:36 PM
I would also suggest to take the primer down to sheet metal. 2k fill primers absorb moisture. Then do your welding and put 2 coats of epoxy followed by 2K fill primer and top coat it.

Gignem
Feb 25th, 06, 03:58 PM
Your saying take the whole car down to the bare metal? If I do so, should I use aircraft stripper? So once I've got it down to the bare metal, do my welding, apply my filler to the seems, put 2 coats of epoxy primer, then 2K fill primer, then it's ready for paint? At which points in this process do I block sand? Should I use a guide coat during this process to find any low or high spots? As you can tell, I'm not a body man but I am seriously contemplating giving this a try (after in depth research of course). If you have any tips or can point me in the direction of some good resources, I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks for the help...

Gambitt
Feb 25th, 06, 04:35 PM
For this project, you might want to start being a regular at:

http://autobodystore.com/forum/index.php

This is an excellent forum that only deals with auto paint work.
There are a lot of really experienced painters on there that are more than glad to help a newbie out. It has been invaluable to me in my restoration. There are a lot of good people on this board also, but autobodystore is totally dedicated to this, so it is a little more indepth.

Gambitt

JimM
Feb 25th, 06, 05:15 PM
This is a goob place to start
http://www.camaros.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=12

RS3SDL2MG
Feb 25th, 06, 07:00 PM
HEY THERE !! this look's like a great car in the making go at it !!
but I have a question not really for you but for everyone else ,
I see this all the time and I am scratching my head as to why ??
the way the 1/4's were put on this car , whoever did it went to the trouble of getting FULL 1/4's to go on the car , the original 1/4's have lead in the seam where they meet the roof and this NEEDS TO BE REMOVED BAD !!!!!!!
the lead is all but IMPOSSIBLE to get anything to stick to it , on this car and countless other's I have seen over the year's the guy that put the 1/4's on came down below the factory seam cut the new 1/4's off and left the leaded (TROUBLE AREA) alone then installed the 1/4's and welded the new seam , this make's TWO seperate weld seam's on the car the lead is still in the top seam ready to ruin antything that is sprayed onto it ???
my question is simply WHY?
WHY would you cut of a new set of 1/4's that you just paid good money for ? what is the reasoning for it ??
I just don't get it ?

Gambitt
Feb 25th, 06, 07:27 PM
I ask myself that same question all the time. I don't know why anyone would put a quarter on and not replace the whole thing...it is a much better way to do it.

Gignem
Feb 25th, 06, 09:41 PM
Thanks for all of the input. It's unfortunate that he didn't take it up to the original seam. Am I o.k. leaving it the way that it is and just repairing his work? I would hate to have to replace the entire quarter, but at the same time don't want to cut any corners. What do you guys think? Also, can I use a MIG to fill any holes and weld the seams? Since the guy used adhesive, will welding on it hurt the original bond?

RS3SDL2MG
Feb 26th, 06, 02:23 PM
half the 1/4's you see put on are just like the guy did your's so your fine ,my only advice as far as saving trouble down the road is GET THAT LEAD OUTTA THERE , up at the top factory seam remove ALL of the lead and then just fine tune ie. weld grind cut fix repair what he has already done and make it look right , you will have a great little car there when your done , I fixed one a few year's back that was the same way I removed the lead smoothed it out and it still looks good today , so get at it !!!

hoop's 67
Feb 28th, 06, 11:20 AM
Be careful welding around panel adhesive, its likes to burn. You will have toxic fumes also. Take precautions!