The verdics out I need to replace my upper dash. On my 69. Too much rust underneith the lower edge of the windshield area. R & R seems pretty stright forward?? Any suggestions on making it easier?? And what am I to do with the VIN tag? Just used regular rivets?
I was able to find a replacemnet dash from 1984 any idea if it could be NOS. Its painted a metal color.

Is it just the area where the dash meets the glass? My 68 had that kind of damage and it was a simple trim off the rust and weld new metal off a replacement dash panel for the fix. You can't even tell it needed repair.

Spidey

You really have no choice but to use standard hardware store rivets. That is unless you can trim that area around the plate out of the old panel and fit it into the new one.

Or depending on how bad the rust damage is, do like wilmarwil says. It's a lot easier. Just make sure you can get to all of the rusted metal below to repair it also.

Good luck!

The rust is pretty much along the whole bottom where the windshield seals to the dash. If I where to cut from the new dash I would pretty much cut that whole lip section. I was going to do that first but after looking at it for hours and hours I thought it might be easier to do the whole thing. But maybe not...Any body done the whole thing?

I had the same issue with mine. In the end I said screw it and replaced the whole thing. Thats why they make the whole thing in the first place right? You can do it either way, and I have no regrets on replacing the entire top plate and welding along the front side of the dash.

As for the tag, you can rivet it with standard 1/8 rivets as the dash covers them anyways. If you were going to the state where you were making the whole change out invisable with no seams, you can always order the original rivets through some of the Trim Tag dealers on the hemmings site. They sell the originals (rose pedal style) for 6 bucks a pair.

Im going to take the fenders off tomorrow to get a better look at the edges and go from there. I'll let you guys know what I do.

Anyone else??

try www.trimtags.com (http://www.trimtags.com) and file it!

I just replaced mine!
not at all hard to do!
but remove fenders, windsheild,dashpad.
lay the new dash panel on top of the old one.
scribe line on edge of the new panel into the old one.
I used a flanger tool to allow a perfect fit on the supports inside the car.
(dont forget to Not cut the L brackets on the A pillar or youll be looking for replacements)

Spidey,

Look at the bottom of this page. This is how I did mine. There's not a ton of pictures but you get the idea.
Dash panel replacement (http://www.geocities.com/hwystarjoe/index2.html)

mine is basically the same way but I used a tig welder.
just make sure you set the windsheild inplace then
tack dashpanel down.
this ensures proper placement of the dash panel.
otherwise youll be using alot of window sealer on the bottom edge.

Dawg (Harry) is right.... but I didn't have the luxery of having the windshield to use. I had to use a 2 foot level, which fit perfect in the opening, to square the windshield bottom edge on the panel to the top windshield lip near the roof. That's as close as I could make it with what I had to work with.

Spidey, if you buy an entire dash panel, more than likely you'll need to trim 1/4" to 3/8" off of the bottom edge that sits on the cowl. They tend to sit too far out over the cowl panel from my experience and what others have said.

Ya, Im goign to go for the whole upper dash replacment. Thanks HwyStarJoe for the pics. Everybodies info really help me out. I'll let you guys know how it come out.

I have the same problem with a 69 Z/28. Where can I get the parts? I recall a year or so back someone sent me a link, national shetmetal or something like that. Thanks

I did as everyone else indicated, however I did prepare the topside of the cowl with POR15 to prevent anything from returning. That's the only other thing that I can think to suggest. Also when cutting out the old dash make certain that you cut on the high side of your scribed line. I made a little error and cut to long and had to patch a little on the passenger side.

Best of luck,
Tom
Dash Replacement (http://users.adelphia.net/~tponten/IM000687.JPG)

I got mine from NPD (National Parts Depot) and I was very happy with it's fit, all the way around. I can't speak for other suppliers. They might all get the same sheetmetal. I just went with NPD because they offered the best price.

A couple of the holes where the dash gauge carrier screws go along the upper edge will need to be enlarged, but otherwise it fit great.

Hey Brad, how'd it turn out? Did you get the cowl sheetmetal figured out?

Ya! it came out great. I ended up frabricating the whole section. About 1 in above the wiper mounts and a-pillar to a-pillar. I ended up using 1 piece of metal to connect to the firewall/cowl. and another to hit the angle up where the windsield will rest. Then I just grinded it all nice and shiney covered it with Rust Bullet and laid the dash on top. I used the windshield as reference and a level. ONE very important thing!!!! Do not cut the small tabs from A- pillar to dash off. Cuase once you cut the dash out its the only real stationary referance you can use. I was lucky enough to have read that some where and it helped out big time. I just got a digi camera so I can post pics now. I just pulled the motor yesterday, preparing to pop the sub frame off and have the sandblaster pick it up soon maybe next week. IM getting excited cuase I know once the frame goes back on, you can only build up from there!!!!! and thats a good thing.

Brad

Very cool. Sounds like you won't have to worry about that area ever agian.
The dash panel has to be one of the easiest 'fixes' there are. I wish I could say the same for the rest of the body. ;) I'm about to learn how patient I can really be.

I know what you mean about having the car back on it's frame. It just doesn't seem like a car anymore when there's nothing but air under it.
Good luck!