: Back Seat Passenger Side Window Track Failure
maddogskip Aug 7th, 04, 09:44 AM I'm Back for more...
When rolling down the back passenger side window I noticed that it was really messed up. :eek: (after I got rid of the spiders and webs) Upon pulling off the inside back panel and comparing it to the other side I noticed that the guide wheel that is supposed to be in the center of the bracket is now below the bracket while the wheel that is supposed to be on top of the bracket is still in place. This leads to tons of questions.
1.) How do I get the wheel back into place in the simplest approach
2.) If Q1 is not an option, how do I pull out and replace the window assembley (any detailed postings that you can point me to?
The driver side back seat window is also pretty sticky so I am guessing that I really need to pull them both out and tune up the hardware. It is such a small area to work though that I am a bit concerned. For now, some PB Blaster has loosened the hardware up quite a bit but I'm sure more needs to be done.
While I am in there, should I shoot some rust inhibitor in the well too? What type to you recommend?
Like I said, sooo many questions...
Thanks a bunch.
stingr69 Aug 8th, 04, 02:34 AM I recomend pulling the whole shebang apart and refurbishing it. You might have broken the white plastic wheel guide on the bottom of the window. If so, it can be replaced but you will need a special tool for the job and a new roller. Ricks sells the stuff you need. I just did this to mine a few months ago.
Unbolt/dissasemble the whole window and track assembly and then remove the pieces from the car. You will probably need to remove the rubber piece from the door jamb area first. clean off all the old grease and grime from the track. Use the special window roller tool if needed to remove the retainers from the rollers and replace as needed. If the roller retainer on the back side just "spins" instead of comming off like it is supposed to, you have a tough job ahead of you. I used A LITTLE heat, some PB Blaster and a vise grip to hold the back of the retainer while I removed the front retainer using the special wrench. You may need a spare retainer if the stud snaps off in it. I was lucky enough to have a spare on hand. :cool:
Attach the new roller, put the pieces back in the hole, assemble them inside the car, adjust the alignment, and spray it all down with lithium grease. You will need to wipe the excess grease off the glass if you are as sloppy as me. :D
That is about it. Good luck!
-Mark.
maddogskip Aug 8th, 04, 05:17 AM Stingr,
When removing the glass, do I just loosen the clamps and pull the glass straight out of the top? Anything special you remember doing in this area? How about the inside of the window well? did you put some rust inhibitor in that area to stop rust/decay?
Thanks
click Aug 8th, 04, 06:36 AM Mark is right on with his ideas. Take it all out, you will learn the mechanics of it and clean it all up including the area behind the crank, where it all rests. Brush, wash, clean, then sand if you can reach it all, prime and paint, use seam sealer on seams you find.
Once you have it apart you can see the leverage that works the windows. Those plastic rollers are very important to have working right. I pulled my glass part out the top slot and took to glass shop, they have the tool to remove the large washers with the tiny holes in them. Buy the repair kit from Ricks or other outfit and do both sides, you know the other one is just as bad. Final adjusting is done with the 4 slot top bolts, take your time it will turn out great and windows will fit snug to the rubber. Use white grease on the slides to finish.
Been there, done that graemlins/thumbsup.gif
http://www.brainerd.net/~knudsen/69RS/Interior/rearwindowadj.JPG
http://www.brainerd.net/~knudsen/69RS/Interior/rearwindowGlidebar.JPG
Unreal Aug 8th, 04, 06:49 AM I'm with click....redo both while they are easily accessable. I did not buy the tool to remove the special nuts. I made a spanner wrench by drilling holes in a piece of steel strip, at the correct center-to-center distance, and then installing a macine screw and nut to form the little studs. I seem to remember using about a #8 or #10 screw with a length that stuck about 1/4" to 3/8" beyond the nut.
maddogskip Aug 8th, 04, 06:08 PM Wow, thanks guys. You get my vote. I'm going in and am going to battle the spiders to retake the rails and restore them. I will give the insides of my window well some paint and TLC as well.
Thanks.
click Aug 8th, 04, 06:23 PM another happy customer let us know how it turned out, and take pics for us if you can of before and after.
graemlins/thumbsup.gif
maddogskip Aug 14th, 04, 10:18 AM Ok, finally got a picture of my window well. It's as good as I can get considering the lighting.
I couldn't get the images to show linked from my Yahoo site so you will have to follow my URL to see them. Sorry, I have to lear how you guys do that.
http://photos.yahoo.com/maddogskip98
click Aug 14th, 04, 10:46 AM The pics were easy to see and going to them in that yahoo album is not hard at all. The white plastic wheel looks pretty dry to me, that will bind and cause it to be tough to roll. You are on your way, keep all the parts in a small zip log baggie and take pics to document the return procedure. Clean, grease and replace the guide wheels. you will be good to go.
graemlins/thumbsup.gif
maddogskip Sep 6th, 04, 07:08 AM Finally got it all back together now. The center wheel actually popped off resulting in all of the chaos. I have lubed everything and put it back. What a pain in the butt it was to put the window back but I got it there. Unfortunatley, there were casualties as a result of my work. My window trim didn't make it through the process and now needs to be replaced. It was old and not really functioning very well anyway so it was due. I just thought I'd mention it in case anyone else was going to try this themselves or if anyone knows a better way of getting the trim off without ruining it.
Cheers and thank for your help.
| |