In attempting to build a JL8 copy, not exact but functional, I'm having a hard time with bleeding. I'm now questioning what I did. I read David Pozzi's site(an incredible amount of information, Thank you David) and the archives for this brake upgrade. Please let me know what I did right or wrong.
-First Gen reproduction booster, was this ever used on 4 wheel JL8 option
or were they manual or does it even matter?
-Corvette disc power master cylinder early 70's, suppose to be correct for
the corvette JL8 calipers I used. Would this use a short or long booster
pushrod? I think it's a shallow master.
-The small front tubed brake lines coming out of the front calipers were not
used, instead I used a 69 single piston banjo hose and bolt. Idea came from
MPBrakes JL8 kit. There are no leaks that I know of, was this a bad idea or
good to go?
-I didn't use any valves as of now except for splitter. I read that JL8 were
already balanced, but to use proportioning valve if needed.
-Back calipers are all original style and hardware.

power brake booster yes,master cylinder should be okay as long as you match push rod to master cylinder. front hose is okay,i will email you a picture of a JL8 rear end so you can compare to yours for the clocking of the caliper.do you ever get a good firm pedal, or does it get air after driving.

What is a hard time bleeding mean?
Exactly what is giving you problems?

The booster you used should work but may require adjusting or cutting the booster pushrod because of firewall differences. Many GM models use the same lengths, but first gen Camaro/Firebird, and Nova up to 74 use the same firewall and pedals for sure. Others may need work.

The booster when fully relaxed has to just slip on the pedal. You don't want the pedal partially pushed when stting still.

It's a 68 camaro. I can't seem to get a firm pedal and I bled for a couple hours on different days. I don't seem to have air bubbles but pedal doesn't feel right, nothing at first but than real hard. Pushrod between master and booster bought from Classics for a first gen camaro. Pushrod from booster to brake pedal is first gen also and followed David's measurements as a guide for lenght, seamed ok. Wanted to make sure what I was doing was right, guess I'll bleed some more. Read another post saying that JL8's are hard to bleed, should I buy one of those top vacuum bleeding sysyems? Brake system was all new lines, calipers, etc.
Mark x22 I have already built the back but would like pics. Thanks to all.

The rear calipers are not in a good position for bleeding, you might unbolt them and place a block between the pads then bleed them with the bleeders pointing upward.
When done, have someone step on the brakes while you watch for caliper movement. Look for the caliper moving or twisting. It will indicate a mis-aligned caliper or bracket.

Are you using Dot 3 or Dot 5 (silicone) brake fluid?

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f58/markx22/JL8%20pictures/th_rightside.jpg (http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f58/markx22/JL8%20pictures/rightside.jpg)
http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f58/markx22/JL8%20pictures/th_leftside.jpg (http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f58/markx22/JL8%20pictures/leftside.jpg)

I'm using DOT-3 brake fluid, figured for what I'm doing with car it's ok. I don't see myself racing to much, after replacing all sheetmetal and many years of work, I'm straight out scared to crash it.

Thanks for the pics, I think mine are pretty close to yours basically like the factory set them up, I think.

I'll take it from here and see what happens. If not you know I'll be back.

Thanks once again.