I'am in the middle of my first restoration project, and the body work has been rather painful. My car is a 68 camaro that was purchased without the front clip, but the body had very little rust\dents. I have completed the body work, but I'am having trouble with the front clip. The spacing between the lower fenders and the door have been difficult. I can adjust for the spacing at the top of the fender through the use of spacers, but the lower section has a mind of it's own. I'am also having trouble with my cowl hood trying to get it flush with the fenders \ header panel. Is there an exact science to the spacing or alignment.

I would also like to know if anyone has experienced "Stress Cracks" in their rear Qtr panel, just under the rear Qtr glass. I purchased the car from the original owner, and he said that he had raced the car before and that the cracks resulted from body torque. I have a 1" crack on both sides that need to be repaired. Is the cracking normal? Does anyone have a suggestion for fixing it, or prevention.

I'am new at this, and any help is appreciated!

Thanks!
Stan Jr
68 Camaro

Stan, are you saying the bottom of the fenders are too close to the edge of the door? Or too far away? My cowl hood was also difficult, but my problem was the contour of the hood VS the header panel. Meaning the hood didn't curve down at the front tips to match the corner of fender & header corner. I don't know if I can explain how I did it, but it took 4 guy's and wood blocks to get the desired contour in the hood. Very carefully I might add. If your problem is gap spacing at the fenders make sure both fenders are flush with the doors. I've had difficulty with hoods before and alot of it was sloppy hinges. Just had to keep fighting it.
Back to the lower fender, if it's too close to the door did you check the gap between door and quarter? If door is sagging, bottom would be closer to fender also.
The previous owner must of been making some H.P. There are some pro body men on this site that may know the right way to fix the cracks. It is known to happen with some massive torque. I don't know if you'll have enough H.P. to have it happen again or not, but putting on a set of sub-frame connecters should cure the problem. Hope this helps.

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Steve
67 SS 396,4-sp
67 RS 327,4-sp
72 RS 350/350
69 4X4 suburban 350,4-sp
73 3/4 ton 454/400
http://www.geocities.com/stevocamaro

Stan.

Are you using new repro fenders? I could never get them to line up at all and tried 2 sets. It would leave a 1" gap between doors and fenders and tight on the bottom. I ended up buying NOS fenders.

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68 RS red w/ white stripes
67 SS/RS restoring

"Patience, Patience, Patience" I kept working with the fenders, and they finally have the spacing I was looking for. The fenders are original GM fenders, but the hood is a repro. The hood looks ok, but I will check out the hinges. They are pretty worn. I may just get some new ones.

Someone suggested I investigate the suspension regarding the cracks, and I will do that when I start on the under side of the body.

Thanks!

To fix the cracks in the 1/4's find the end of the crack, then drill a 1/8" hole there. This will prevent the crack from starting right where it left off. then just mig weld the crack. This method has worked for me for years there might be some other suggestions.
Austin

That's a cool idea austin. I never thought about that. (drilling the holes)

Yeah, it works great. I first leaned it from doing repairs on frames.
Austin

I'll try that. I have heard of doing that with windshield cracks, and that seems to work. I will need to get my hands on a 110 Mig, and practice welding thin sheet metal. I'am experienced with welding on heavy steel, but not sheet metal.

Use .023 wire for sheet metal.