Anyone ever had a crack develope on the starter mounting area ? I have a 454 with this problem,about 1 inch in length.Any good idea's on how to repair it? I am sick with the idea.I have researched welding cast ,seems to me the only safe way would be to heat the entire block NOT just 1 specific area.DUE to expansion and contraction .This really isnt an option to me any other idea's?

Sorry; the only safe way to weld cast iron (especially a large complex casting) is to heat it in a furnace. The problem will get worse, very rapidly (every time you hit the starter) till it breaks off.


Larger Dave

We just got one back from the welding shop and they brazed it and done a dam nice job and did not have to heat the whole block in an oven and we have had those areas hot sprayed over the years and that proccess seems to woork good as well and they only heated the area that needed to be welded.

I have found several place's on the net that say you can do this & that with cast iron other's that say it has to be entirely heated.wonder why there are such difference's of opinion's here.It either works or it dont i would think.http://www.muggyweld.com/castiron.html?OVRAW=Cast%20Iron%20Welding&OVKEY=welding%20cast%20iron&OVMTC=standard and this one have me confussed http://locknstitch.com/RepairExamples.htm

I think from an engineers outlook you should heat the whole block to weld it, but ,I cant tell you how many stories I've heard like CNC BLOCKS N/E is telling you. Alot of old timers and gearheads around my area tell different tales about block repairs. One in particular I know to be true,was a weld on the water jacket on a D-6 catapillar diesel engine that is still running. The guy who had it considered he had nothing to loose considering the cost of a new cat diesel and as it turned out he didnt.Lot different than a Hi-Po 454,kinda gonna have to weigh the odds

I have been to the Pri Show many years now and ther is a guy that owns CWT there every year welding on heads a different cast iron peices and never have seen them use an oven to do the hot spray process.

And we have had blocks repaired in the same area that is asked about and the engines is still runing today.

CNC what exactly is hot spray process? Also can it be done with the engine still in the car as this is how it sit's right now http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/MDS59/69ss/69sseng602.jpg

CNC what exactly is hot spray process? Also can it be done with the engine still in the car as this is how it sit's right now http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/MDS59/69ss/69sseng602.jpg

They use a torch that when the cast iron is hot enough they squeeze a trigger which allows the power to go threw the flame and adhere to the cast iron and it would be kind of hard to set up a Bridgeport under the car to remachine the starter hole if needed.

Try this link www.cwtindustries.com

Years ago my 396 cracked right thru the center of the outside bolt hole on the starter mount pad, it was brazed and has held up fine. I am a little concerend tho that it could be re-broken when the block goes for cleaning and machining.

Ok I have just gotten back from the shop http://www.motorcitysteel.net/ that is fixing my cracked block.I mentioned the comment's here on T.C. I'm not sure if they are to busy or if they are procrastinating on just how to do it.They had'nt heard of HOT SPRAY. So i offered this link to them we will see if they chime in here,maybe even post some pic's of the process of fixing it.

The hot spray sounds like a soldering process (were one metal with a lower melting point penetrates another metal as a liquid to form an alloy) and it is going to form a "cold" solder joint as described. You do the same thing when you tack on a copper wire using another metal to join them lead, or for that matter brazing which is the same thing with brass and steel.

I am not familiar with the powdered metal being used but I doubt if the alloy formed will be as strong as the original cast iron. This process could have developed to join decorative wrought iron pieces for all I know, under little if any stress. I can not tell you how well it will hold up. But I would investigate the metallurgy involved before I hazarded a block to the process. As any one who has tried to desolder knows once a metal sublimates into another it is darn near impossible to separate them again.


Larger Dave

alot of people forget or figure the rear bracket on the starter is useless.
well if you had the rear bracket installed it wouldnt cause the cracks.
yes it was there on the original designs.

I have been welding fo 35 years.The type of cast;the structure and how thick has alot to do with it as well as many other tricks of the trade.
N94 w14355 GarwinMaceDrive
Menomonee Falls,Wi 53051
414 255 5520

Mg welding Products. Get their book Superior Alloys For Maintenance And Repair.it will tell you all you need to Know about welding all sorts of stuff you would think impossible to weld.I have many books from different suppliers but this one is good for the layman.Also book is old but Im sure their still in business.

if your in the detroit area ballard eng.in highland park is the place to call.hes been there for 60 yrs welding blocks of all types from all over the country.

Just a comment on the spray weld that CNC mentioned. We have used it to rebuild crank journals and regind them to stock diameters and build up custom offset stroke journals years ago. When done properly the weld is about bulletproof. Just think about the pounding that a crank journal takes.

Also Wieler welding offer a special cast iron alloy TIG rod. It is not the hi Ni type of rod and blend in appearance with the base metal when refinished.

Think of spray-welding like powder-coating EXCEPT the powder goes through a torch flame and is melted before it hits the part vs letting the oven "melt/bake" the powder on in spray coating..

pdq67