I've got a ton of screw holes from panel bonding my trunk floors in.

What would be the best way to fill these holes, put panel bond glue in them, or duraglas, any special way to prep the holes

I know this has been discussed before, but maybe someone has figured out a new way to do this.

Thanks in advance
Rob

i usually go back and mig them holes closed, but you could use a product called all metal,it's a 2 part product and it works pretty good ,but fine strand fiberglass filler would work too

Mig them...fillers are quick fix
do once do it right
A brass dolly held under the hole, mig the hole. The steel doesnt stick to the dolly and gives a reasonable finish on the bottom side.
Grind off, touch up with the mig again and no one can tell.

If you bonded with adhesive, be careful with the heat if you mig...the heat can make the adhesive let go. I would probably use a fiberglass resin of some sort so that it is moisture proof.

Thats what I was wondering about, panel adhesive can be undone by heat - I'd be careful. I'd also question whether using adhesive for the trunk pan is a wise choice to start with, the rear frame rails tie into the car via the trunk pan, I'd consider that to be structural.
If the holes are directly next to adhesive, I'd fiberglass, if there is some room, I'd weld and cool immediately.
My .02

I uderstand the "structual" issue but even the manufacturers are using bonding under these conditions. If used properly, these adhesives will do most anything you ask of it. BMW has a REQUIREMENT (not a "recommendation" or "OK") to bond a frame rail splice on the newest 5 series. Yep, it has a tube style frame rail that goes from the shock tower out supporting the rad support, inner fender and BUMPER. You are instructed to cut the rail behind the rad support and using a sleeve inside the rail to hold it straight, "glue" the new rail to the old. No welding, bo bolts, just "glue".

And yes, I see no reason what so ever to weld these little screw holes up. It isn't the "wrong" way to leave a hole filled with adhesive or a seam sealer (which is what I would do). It is "another" way that's all.

You know, one day it hit me when I was welding up some little rust hole in a rear window channel. I have this solid metal, it was a localized rust pit with super solid metal next to it. I was getting ready to weld it up when I thought why not fill it with seam sealer. Right near this hole is a much larger factory hole at the corner of the window channel where the upper panel is welded to the quarter. The factory filled it with seam sealer, I will be filling it with seam sealer. What in the world is the difference between that little rust hole and the other hole? Nothing, other than it is smaller and actually less of a hole to "ask" the seam sealer to fill.

You don't have to weld up every single hole to make it "as good" as they did from the factory. Those floors have HUGE gaps between them filled with a brush on super thick seam sealer. Filling some little eighth inch hole isn't a big deal.

It doesn't need Metal-2-Metal, a fiberglass reinforced filler, nothing, just a 2k seam sealer. There is nothing "structual" about the hole, just fill it with something that will STAY there is all that is needed.

Brian

Thank you
Zigman
steptoe
Gambit
Jhunter and Brian, I will feel better about taking care of it.

Rob