Need some help if possible. Wanting to replace the pump gasket on a 400 Turbo in my 69 Camaro. People have told me that this is easy to just thread 2 bolts into the pump and then use a pry bar on each side and slowly work the pump out and change the gasket.

Somebody else told me today that I don't want to do that because he thinks that there are rings that have to be compressed and in order to get the pump put back in they will need to be compressed as the pump goes back into the tranny...

Which is right. Someone please help... Would like to do this task tomorrow and would like to know ahead of time what I am getting into.

Thanks,
Mike

There are rings to compress, but as long as the pump goes on straight and slowly, they will both join each other.

You'll be able to feel if one doesn't fit. Lube with ATF liberally.

There are rings to compress, but as long as the pump goes on straight and slowly, they will both join each other.

You'll be able to feel if one doesn't fit. Lube with ATF liberally.

Thanks! So just go slow.. Also, what about being able to tell if that is where the leak is. Obviously you understand that we cannot tell if it is the pump gasket or the pump bolts or what but I would assume it is one or the other. We are going to go ahead and replace the front seal while we are there as well. Hopefully this will solve it. This has been a nightmare. Is that what you would suggest as well???

I have changed the pan gasket 4 times thinking it was the pan because of how the leak goes. It runs slowly down between the bell and onto the top lip of the pan and then drips like it is coming from the pan. We finally saw it come down inside the housing when the car was up on the rack and running! Plus, the pan I got from Jegs was leaking too in a WELD of all places!

Thanks,
Mike

I would suggest, from my experience, the front seal would be the major leak culpruit rather than the oil pump gasket & rings.

If the trans wasn't selecting a chosen gear, then I might suggest a broken ring.

Now, if you pull the trans and pull the t/conv, and replace the seal, I'd look at the edges of the t/conv oil pump drive. All these edges must be chamfered as they will tear the seal lip upon insertion and your $3 seal is toast even before you get started and you don't even know it. Use a bastard file followed by emery paper, and shove a shop towel into the t/conv to prevent filings from damaging the bearings. Lube the seal and lube the drive.

Yes, leaking aftermarket pans are a problem, poor quality control. Next time you want to check a pan for leaks, pour in lacquer thinner as a leak detector. Works better than oil & water, better surface tension.

I would suggest, from my experience, the front seal would be the major leak culpruit rather than the oil pump gasket & rings.

If the trans wasn't selecting a chosen gear, then I might suggest a broken ring.

Now, if you pull the trans and pull the t/conv, and replace the seal, I'd look at the edges of the t/conv oil pump drive. All these edges must be chamfered as they will tear the seal lip upon insertion and your $3 seal is toast even before you get started and you don't even know it. Use a bastard file followed by emery paper, and shove a shop towel into the t/conv to prevent filings from damaging the bearings. Lube the seal and lube the drive.

Yes, leaking aftermarket pans are a problem, poor quality control. Next time you want to check a pan for leaks, pour in lacquer thinner as a leak detector. Works better than oil & water, better surface tension.

Thanks again.. One more question.. what about removing the pump? I have been told that there are 2 threaded holes that are not used on the front of the pump and you just need to put 2 bolts in them and then slowly work the pump out with a small cheater bar. Is this correct or do you suggest some other method?

Thanks again for all your help...

Mike

I use a small bottle jack, two bolts & washers, and a length of chain. Attach the chain to one threaded hole, set jack on top of input shaft, drape chain over the jack to the other threaded hole, attach same with bolt & washer.

Keeping jack and chain together, pump on jack and oil pump pops right out.

When you assemble the pump back to case, after replacing the large O-ring, be sure there is NO gasket remaining. Use two long studs to guide pump back into the right position. Lube the cavity the pump will fit into on the case and lube the O-ring on the pump body. Be sure to have the bolt holes aligned closely. Use new gaskets under the bolt heads. Lube the rings behind the pump.

Be sure to have dry threads in the case, otherwise, oil gets trapped and as you are tightening the bolt, the oil has no where to escape and builds up pressure and the case cracks. Tighten the bolts in a criss cross pattern and evenly. Final torque would be from the book. Lube the seal and install the t/conv.

You might look at the stub on the t/conv and if it is rough, use emery paper and ATF to polish it. If a groove is worn onto it, place the seal into the pump alittle deeper, if the seal does not have an outside flange, so the seal will rub on a 'new' surface on the t/conv stub. Otherwise, you may have to replace the t/conv. But, usually, a good polishing may clean it up good.