Howdy...
Next road block.
The "left over" length (a couple inches are sticking out of the bell housing) from my adjustable clutch pivot ball is in the way of getting my TKO-600 mounted to my McLeod scattershield. It appears that this needs to be flush to the backside of the bellhousing or I will not be able to get the trans flush to the bellhousing. This also means the lock nut needs to be removed as there is no room for it inside or outside on the pivot ball shaft. Currently I have the lock nut on the outside.

Do I break out the cut off wheel and hack the excess away, or should this not be an interference issue if the trans id going in straight?

Tim

The outside of the housing needs to be flat, for the trans to mount against.
I have the lock nut on the inside. Then cut off the extra stud with a cut off wheel.

Thanks, SC68Z28.

Were you able to level your clutch fork and still keep the nut on the inside of the housing? Mine appears to be not entirely level if I leave those extra few threads to engage the nut fully.

Tim

Not sure what you mean (level)? It is parallel with the flywheel.
I'm using the Mcleod adjustable ball, a McLeod 2 disc clutch, with a Lakewood SFI scattershield.

Parallel with the flywheel when the TO bearing is making contact with the fingers of the presure plate, is what I was getting at. I'm installing a 12" single disk McLeod clutch (good to about 600HP).

I'll take another look next time I'm in the garage working on it. Maybe I was still high from the brake clean fumes after cleaning my flywheel and pressure plate surfaces and wasn't looking at it straight.

Tim

Both the bolt and the slotted nut must be flush with the transmission side of the bellhousing or it will interfere with the transmission case. I had to cut the bolt AND grind the face of the slotted nut down to be flush with my Lakewood bellhousing.

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/mcl-16908_w.jpg

The top of the stud should be 4.75 inches from the block mounting surface. If your block plate is approx. .125" (1/8") then you should measure 4 5/8" from the top of the stud to the top of the bellhousing without the block plate. You should have plenty of room for the locknut, which should be the thin nut shown in the above picture.

Mike

You cut off the excess stud sticking out towards the transmission.
Before you do this make sure you follow the instructions that were included with your kit on how to adjust your clutch fork - here is a link to the instructions if you need them: http://www.classicchevy5speed.com/files/Clutch_Fork_TO_Bearing_instr.pdf.

Also, have you removed any of the adjustment rings from your adjustable TO bearing to shorten it up? If you remove a ring (or both of them if neccessary) there will be more ball stud sticking into the bellhousing which means you will have more thread available for the lock nut. The purpose of the adjustable TO bearing and the adjustable ball stud is to give you maximum options to adjust your clutch fork. Most liklley you will nee/want to remove 1 ring and leave the other ring in place to get the right length.
To remove a ring, just pull part the TO beraing - make sure to put it back together the same way as it came apart.

You cut off the excess stud sticking out towards the transmission.
Before you do this make sure you follow the instructions that were included with your kit on how to adjust your clutch fork - here is a link to the instructions if you need them: http://www.classicchevy5speed.com/files/Clutch_Fork_TO_Bearing_instr.pdf.

Also, have you removed any of the adjustment rings from your adjustable TO bearing to shorten it up? If you remove a ring (or both of them if neccessary) there will be more ball stud sticking into the bellhousing which means you will have more thread available for the lock nut. The purpose of the adjustable TO bearing and the adjustable ball stud is to give you maximum options to adjust your clutch fork. Most liklley you will nee/want to remove 1 ring and leave the other ring in place to get the right length.
To remove a ring, just pull part the TO beraing - make sure to put it back together the same way as it came apart.

Thanks for you kind and suttle reminder, Jeff.
Due to my Adult ADHD.....Reading simple directions and reassembling puzzle pieces in proper order have never been my strength. I haven't met a rubics cube that I couldn't defeat....with a 4" cut off wheel and some glue...or by throwing it against the wall as hard as I can and then omitting the pieces that offend me most. This usually happens when the mean chicken in me turns into the vicious rooster.

I'll put down my power weapons...uh...tools....go back and re-read my direction packet that came with my very nice CC5S TKO-600 kit.

Best Regards,
Tim