I'm having a big problem with water getting in my air hose line. I'm in the process of sand blasting parts of my car. The big problem im having is the water in the lines. How do i fix this? I have a very old broke down air compressor that was used in a dentist office back in the day. Only one of its two motors works and it takes forever for it to charge back up. It might take me all day to blast my radiator support but it still looks good. After I am done blasting it to bare metal what metal prep cleaner is best? what grit sand paper is best for finishing the stripping job? what kind of primer should I use? Is primer you get from autozone in spray cans good to use? What gloss black paint should I use? I need to buy a paint gun but I have no idea what gun to buy or what paint to use? Will the water in my air lines really mess up the paint? And lastly is POR15 all its made out to be? how do you apply it? sorry to ask so much.

thanks guys
Justin

Make sure the water seporater is as far from the air compressor as possible, I use two of them, One in the middle and one at the end of my air(rubber)hose.The reason for getting it as far away from the air compressor is that the air coming right from the compresser is hot.

In my opinion, I don't trust any primer sprayed from a can. Spray the bare metal with a mixed metal etch primer. Just make sure you remove the dust. Metal prep will build up in the pits of the metal.

That compressor ain't gonna cut it. I use a 5 horse 30 gallon compressor and I am beating it hard to blast for long periods. Get a better compressor, at least 6 cfm at 90 psi or BIGGER. Cfm at less than 90 psi doesn't matter since you will rarely use less than 90 to 100 psi. Get BIG cfm at 90+ psi. You should use at least one good air filter / dryer. I use 100 feet of air line between the compressor and the tool at all times, the more the better. Water in the air lines when you paint will ruin the paint job. If you were using a larger compressor, it wouldn't run as much, and your air would be dryer. All that hot air coming out of the compressor is not the best for the tools since it is usually moist. The less your compressor runs, the more effective your tools will be, especially sanders and sandblasters. Paint guns are big bucks, are you going to paint the whole car or just under the hood? A cheapo mechanics gun will work fine for under the hood of a driver, but not a 100 point show car. A good paint gun, like a Sata will be $300+ but a cheapo gravity feed HVLP can be found for $120. You don't need a professional grade gun if you only plan to shoot one car every now and then, but steer clear of Craftsman guns, they suck big time. A good epoxy primer is what you need for bare metal. It runs $50 or so a quart with the catalyst and reducers. Rattle can primer will work, but you will not get show quality, and it can come up later. Bite the bullet and use some good primer, the rest of the paint depends on good primer adhesion. Use 100 grit to finish stripping, 60 to 80 if the paint is tough. POR-15 is excellent and it does exactly what it says it will. It can be sprayed when thinned with the proper reducer, or brushed on (as I did) for areas that aren't seen or will be covered with fillers or undercoating. It cannot take sunlight, so it must be topcoated. To topcoat it you must use POR's tiecoat or sand all gloss off the POR-15. It dries like a rock, and is rather resistant to stripper, but not impervious to it.

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57 Plymouth Savoy in my family since new, just cosmetically restored, 93 S-10 waiting on the 50 Dodge truck to be built then one s_10 for sale, Angie's mechanic and designated Vette cusser.