I was recently told by my local paint distributor that PPG DP90 epoxy primer was suitable as a topcoat. I sure like the way it looks - just the right gloss for my taste. However, will this stuff hold up to UV exposure and other environmental challenges? Should I topcoat with something else for longevity? If you're wondering (or if it matters), I used PPG 1791 wash primer under the DP90.

-dnult

I have asked this same question before...I was told that exact same thing by my local ppg distributor. The answer is, no, it will not hold up to uv exposure, and while it would be ok to use it for the bottom of you car and places it will not be directly exposed to sunlight, it would be better to go ahead and top coat it. That's what I plan to do.

Ditto with gambitt the dp-90 can't be exposed to uv but works and looks nice on stuff on the undercarriage. What kind of gloss level you looking for? I know eastwood has some underhood black that is similiar to the gloss of dp-90. I used eastwood chassis black on the bottom of my wife's 69 that I'm restoring and was real happy with the gloss. The chassis black covered really good but I did seal up the bottom first with dp-90. see ya Joe.

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by JOEVANNUS:
Ditto with gambitt the dp-90 can't be exposed to uv but works and looks nice on stuff on the undercarriage. What kind of gloss level you looking for? I know eastwood has some underhood black that is similiar to the gloss of dp-90. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I had planned to leave the inside of the outer fenders primered as well as the firewall. I purchased some of eastwoods underhood black today thinking I'll use it for the radiator support, inner fenders and other miscellaneous things. Probably will go ahead and shoot the firwall with a topcoat of underhood black as well. I might just let the dark side of the fenders stay primer though.

-dnult

The DP-90 needs to be topcoated, a friend of mine painted his front subframe after sandblasting with only dp-90, after 3 years it started to rust. Just tiny spots, but uniform all over. Brent

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Prostreet 67 L-78 SS 396 project. Daily driven S-10 blazer: 355/700r4. 12.56 et. @ 108 mph.

Thanks Brent. Always good to get reports from field experience. I'm still not sure what I'll do about the inside of the fenders. I'm auful tempted to just prime it, but my hole mission is to do things so they don't have to be done again. Do you think the pin-holes were from the primer breaking down, or rock chips, or ???

-dnult

In reading 10 year old magazine artilcles quoting Roger Gibson and Jeff Lilly (well known restoration professionals)......they both painted Camaro/Chevelle frames with Acrylic Enamel (PPG DAR9000) and then added 33% flattening agent (DX265) to retard the gloss. I've also seen where in PPG's DAR instuction sheet they add a HARDENING agent which seems like a good idea....I probably can and will call PPG but would like to know if its hard to figure out how the hardening agent changes the amount of DX265???? to retain same 33% flat look....I am going to use DP-90 under this top coat... I was thinking about an acid etch primer over sandblasted metal, but another internet poster quotes a PPG bulletin saying not neccessary over this substrate....
ALSO in 2003 Technology is there a better single stage paint to use on the frame and coresuport etc than acrylic enamel such as single stage urathane???????? Thanks, Chuck Sharin

Dnult, this was a several year restoration. The subframe hadn`t even been reinstalled when he noticed the rust. It was always stored inside, not exposed to the elements. It was almost like a light surface rust that you would see on bare metal that has been sitting around awhile. He just scuffed it, sprayed another coat of DP-90, and painted it with single stage urethane. Still looks great several years later. Brent