converted my front drums to disc---so i have manual disc/drums brakes--changed master cylinder and new lines---problem is the front wheels are now locking up---car has been sitting alot due to getting body and paint done---any suggestions on problem or pics of how to run lines to from master cyl. to the dist. block and valve just to see if i have done the right way---thanks

Your assembly manual will give you all the detail you need to check the routing..
Haven't got one? Better get one! :)

UPC J50 for power option.. J52 for front disc option..

don't have manual---anyone got a copy?

Ive got a manual front disc conversion on my 67,give me a little info.Did you keep the proportioning valve that came on the car or did you put the adjustable one on that came in the kit?...or did you use a kit?I've got an assembly manual as well,but again did you buy a brake line kit? give me some info I'll try to help

Here, I scanned in the 4 important pages from the Assembly Manual on 'Manual Brakes'. Power Brakes are different in that they have a booster and metering valve.
http://69camaro.nextmill.net/temp/camaro_manualbrakes.pdf

i bought a set that came off of a 69z---a few parts had been rebuilt---new parts where master cylinder/port. valve(orginal type, not adjustable)/brake lines/bearings/rotors---calipers where rebuilt---used backing plates and keep the old dist. block that was on the car---installed and drove about 15 miles to the body shop where it has been for about a year---i do have line lock on the car, but when this problem occurred i cut the solneid loose and still have front wheels locked up---i did replaced the calipers with new ones and rebleed everything----help please, the car is finally done and i can't even move it---thanks

'Locking up' happens while driving, and applying brakes results in uncontrolled skidding. Is that your problem, or are the front brakes are seized and the car wont move at all?

If seized, the line lock may be stuck. Loosen the line entering the line lock and see if they free up. If not, loosen the line exiting the lock. If they then do free up, the lock is stuck.

You can use this test for each component, starting at master. Generally, the component directly above the line which frees them up is the one with the problem. If you get ahead of yourself, apply the brakes again to get them stuck, and start over at the master, working downward, one fitting at a time.

sitting alot due to getting body and paint done
Check the sides on the calipers...clean and lube them..chances are they have over spray from painting...Lube, use a proper rubber lub

If its not the line lock ,be careful of contamination.Years ago on my 67, in much younger days I had my brakes lock up...the car would not move .I had to have it towed in on a dolly.A crafty old mechanic I knew then looked it over and discovered that the brake fluid had oil in it,this caused the rubber in the brake components to not release as with brake fluid. As it happened at the time i was seeing a girl that had an ex -boyfriend that new his stuff about brakes and had put some oil in my un-locking hood camaro...this information being derived under some "pummeling" shall we say.He did not put alot in the master cylinder and it doesnt take alot...I can tell you how to rid yourself of this problem if you cant find the solution. What I'm hearing is the brakes are locked up now and wont release or are the locking up under braking?

If the pedal-to-master cylinder pushrod isn't adjusted with the correct free play to the "up" bumper, the piston seal will cover the compensating port and that won't allow fluid to return to the master cylinder when you take your foot off the brake pedal. You need 1/16"-1/4" free play at the top of pedal travel - adjustment is the threaded clevis where the pushrod connects to the brake pedal.

no brakes are locked up----and just the front ones---the back brakes still seem to be ok----thanks for all your help