Hello this is my first post here.

I'm removing my right quarter. I've got it off at the roof and trunk, working my way down the tail panel. How is it attached at the lower section of the tail panel -- below the bumper line ? I can't see how to get at the welds.

It will be spot welded. The spots welds can be very difficult to get at. If you don't already have a spot weld cutter, it will probably pay to get one (attaches to a drill, cost about $15.00). Sometimes you just have to totally destroy and cut away the panel to get to the spot welds. It really doesn't matter how badly you tear up the old quarter, but when you get close to the edges, where it joins, take you time and carefully cut out the old and clean up where it was attached.

Generally speaking, I cut the old quarter panel off about 2" from the outer edges all the way around the entire panel and discard it before cutting away the welds. Once again, generally speaking, it gives a little better access as well as locating any hidden welds. You can trim that 2" away to give even better access in areas that allow it without cutting up the metal that it is welded too. Obviously, this is a lot easier to do if you use a panel cutter and the correct bit.

If you are refering to a first generation Camaro, didn't the lower filler panel below the bumper get welded on AFTER the quarters? I seem to remember the need to remover that lower panel (at least on one side) to get to the quarter panel spot welds.

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Fan of anything that is interesting and moves human beings.
1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
1948 Chevy PU with 401 Buick

MartinSR -

I forgot to say that this is on my '67. Yes, I think you're right, the quarters fit under the lower portion of the tail panel. It looks like there are several spot welds under there.

It looks like there are about 100 spot welds that hold the tail panel on. Is there a better way to replace the quarter?

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1967 Camaro coupe since 12/24/66, '98 WS6 Conv, Y2K Corvette Conv

Well the "bestest-fastest" way would be this.

Cut the quarter with a cut off wheel about 1/2" away from that seam to the rear panel, Vertically right beside it. Now clean up the edge of any burrs. Cut the new panel about 1/4" down into that seam. In other words cut SOME of that lip off than goes down under the rear panel. So when you set the panel on this new panel sets over the 1/2" left from the old panel and tucks down into the seam so you can't see the edge. Now, punch or drill a row of holes in the new panel so you can plug weld the new panel to that little 1/2" strip left of the old panel. After trial fitting a FEW times makeing sure you are on the right track. Spray everything hidden with weld through primer. Then put a little urethane seam sealer along the edge of the new panel so when you install the panel it will seal the seam that will be tucked down in the rear panel/quarter panel seam. You have to pay particular attention not to get this seam sealer up where the plug welds will be, this would make for some HORRABLE welding conditions.

The other way to attach it would be a panel bonding adheasive. This is how I would do it. The panel is going to be welded most everywhere else (but I would think about the panel bonding in the wheel well too). You prepair it the same but don't punch/drill the holes for plug welding. You then epoxy prime it all and apply a strip of 3M panel bonding adheasive on that 1/2" lip of the old quarter and stick your new panel on, welding it the rest of the way. Leave at least a few inches from the adheasive for any welds. This way would be the best way in my opinion. Even if you don't like the idea at all of adheasives (even though they could be used to "glue" the entire car together!) If you were to use it at this one point it will have NO structual job at all. You could even leave it unwelded and just put a urethane sealer seam sealer there with no ill effects. But it IS welded there now, so I would use the panel ahdeasive.

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Fan of anything that is interesting and moves human beings.
1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
1948 Chevy PU with 401 Buick

Thanks for the adhesive idea!

I'd rather do that than disturb the well welded and rust free rear panel.

I did a little checking and found that the entire outer panel of an F150 door is held on with adhesive. If it can do that job, it ought to do great on my Camaro

Hi, my name is Tom and I've posted a Request request on the Body Tech sight about "HOW TO" I've heard allot of things about Gluing on the panel and it seems to be the way to go. Much ease and lack of warpage. Now my question to you is can a guy go back and put in a couple spot welds after it has been glued and cured to regain that factory appearance in the noticeable area's? Thanks for the help http://www.camaros.net/forum/smile.gif

I can't believe I am going to do this but I disagree with MartinSR on this one. I cut the quarter panel as close to the tail panel as possible with a panel cutting air chisel. Then using a wire wheel brushed the remaining panel to show up the spot welds. I drilled them out with a flat mill point drill and was able to remove the piece of quarter panel sandwiched between the inner and outer tail panel. I only drilled out 2 spot welds at the very bottom of the tail panel and did not bend or distort the tail panel at all. I had to drill all the way through the flange on the the side of the inner tail panel with a 1/2" drill because the welds were large and the flange was not flat. This made a natural plug weld spot for the new panel welding from underneath in a tight corner. A quick note the part of the repo pannel that sandwiches between the inner and outer tail panel required some bending to make the quarter panel sit flush with the tail panel. Test fit everthing before the first weld!! Martinsr, forgive me your way is probably best but I wanted to finish a little as possible on the outside and it worked great.

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1969 Camaro 350 & 1969 Impala SS 427/ 4-speed (restored)

That's close to the way we did it "back in the old days". Although I still work on several cars each year, I'm not totally up to date on the newest approaches, so I do it like I used to, when I was doing it for a living. I'm sure both ways will work and do a good job in each case. I'm just old school.

Can a guy spot weld the Qtr for cosmetics after it has been glued?

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Tom Weaver:
Can a guy spot weld the Qtr for cosmetics after it has been glued?<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Thanks for the reply to my post a year later. I'm still working on the other side now, using the Martin SR. method. I've done a lot of research on panel adhesives during this year. I think they are as good or better than welding for most non structural areas.

I don't recommend any welding near the glue joint. Heat will break down the glue.

[This message has been edited by z51bob1 (edited 09-05-2002).]