I have the DSE mini-tub kit mostly installed, Im to the point of the rear shock crossmemeber. Does anyone have pics of there install from under the car? The area where the closeouts are required and also the front of the crossmember where it meets the the bottom layer of the floor. My crossmember does not seem to be long enough to meet this second layer. I called DSE and they want the height above the floor to be 2" so thats where I put it but its about a half inch a way from the second layer.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks

I don't have any pics of my install, but I do have this page. Kyle took these pics:

www.lateral-g.net/adams/minitub

Scot
Thanks for the link and reply. I have those pics thats a sweet ride. I was wanting to see the shock crossmember that welds in between the tubs. I cant find any good pics of a 67 that has one in it. I emailed DSE before I posted here and on pro-touring and I tell you what, that is a great company I was at work this morning and they called me to answer my questions and comment on the pics I sent of install progress. You dont see to many companys go above and beyond like that today I was highly impressed! They answered my questions but I would still like to find some pics guess I'll keep searching.
Wow just checked out the camaro in your sig that is awesome very nive ride!
Thanks Again

Rick

DSE Sent me a PFD file showing the cross member shocks and springs ect. If you want it email me im not sure if it will help ya or not.
L8R

Rick check this out..Awesome start to finish 67 mini-tub project pics by Mike's custom Cars.
http://www.mikescustomcars.com/projects/projects.asp?proj=boardwine67

DSE Sent me a PFD file showing the cross member shocks and springs ect. If you want it email me im not sure if it will help ya or not.
L8R

[quote=
Rick check this out..Awesome start to finish 67 mini-tub project pics by Mike's custom Cars.
http://www.mikescustomcars.com/proje...oj=boardwine67 (http://www.mikescustomcars.com/projects/projects.asp?proj=boardwine67)
__________________
Jake l8r[/quote]

Yes thanks please email the pdf Iam vey interested!

Jake thanks for the I will check it out! Unfortunetly it appears he didnt put the crossmember in, but man he does nice work!

I sent the files to the email address you have listed here in the fourm.
By the way what size wheels and tires do you plan on running?
Heres the anwser i recived form DSE on my plans on running 20" Rear wheels
and my stock 12 bolt rear.

Thanks for your interest in DSE. You can squeeze up to a 335 tire on a 12" wheel with the mini-tub kit. They only thing you have to watch with a 20" wheel is the height of the tire. You will not be able to drop the car as much, and may run into clearance issues. Whether you choose a 17" or a 20", this will not change the width of the tire.

You can use the stock 12 bolt but we do reccommend having it narrowed with this wide of a tire. Unless you have a new aftermarket multileaf spring, I would suggest using our springs with the kit. Along with lowering the car and providing a upgrade in handling, they will also aid in eliminating wheel hop due to the design.

Once you still the upper shock crossmember, you will install the shock mounts up inside, and this will be your new mounting location for your new (talled) shocks.

I sent the files to the email address you have listed here in the fourm.
By the way what size wheels and tires do you plan on running?
Heres the anwser i recived form DSE on my plans on running 20" Rear wheels
and my stock 12 bolt rear.

Thanks for your interest in DSE. You can squeeze up to a 335 tire on a 12" wheel with the mini-tub kit. They only thing you have to watch with a 20" wheel is the height of the tire. You will not be able to drop the car as much, and may run into clearance issues. Whether you choose a 17" or a 20", this will not change the width of the tire.

You can use the stock 12 bolt but we do reccommend having it narrowed with this wide of a tire. Unless you have a new aftermarket multileaf spring, I would suggest using our springs with the kit. Along with lowering the car and providing a upgrade in handling, they will also aid in eliminating wheel hop due to the design.

Once you still the upper shock crossmember, you will install the shock mounts up inside, and this will be your new mounting location for your new (talled) shocks.

Thanks for the files, apparently they updated the instructions. As far as wheels and tires Im going to run 315/35/17's on 11" rims. Trying to stay away from high dollar custom back-spacing, right now with the ls1 and regular body repair i have my hands full and things are not cheap anymore as everyone knows.
I have yet to get them mounted for mock up. Currently Iam replacing the trunk pan and trying to get the crossmember in. With just the tire sitting in there i guessing the rear-end will have to be cut about 1" on each side I will know for sure in a couple weeks. Iam trying to avoid folding the wheel lip from 10 to 2, I just put new quarters on and really dont want to mess with them. I have some pics in my sig and you can view the fun LOL.
Thanks again for the files

Looks Good where did you get you roof panle from? Iv seen a guy selling them on ebay with some sort of problem area that needs repaired but ther cheap. Was just worndering if you had a hard time with yours.
I Plan on running a 355/25-19 rear tire on my 68.

That is where I got mine Ebay auction It was D&R classics. Paid about 132.00 and 75.00 dollars for shipping (to a friends business). The damaged area is so small it will not be any issue what so ever. it was just a little crease by the driver side A-pillar. I have only one issue with the repop roof the area where the roof curves around the top of the rear window, the curve is a little to wide and looks like there will be a gap when the molding gets installed, I have to test fit it and see how bad this will be. Worse case I will just have to weld a small round rod to it and grind to fit.
The packaging from them was awesome, the roof is stood vertical on a wooden pallet with a very strong box around it. It arrived in great shape. I would recommend them D&R keep your eyes for a slow auction, I bid on three different ones and finally the one I won was ending on a holiday and the traffic was slow so I got a great deal. I have seen the same ones go as high as 250. As far as the install it was actually pretty painless easier then the quarters LOL. No issues other then fitting to the drip rail, nothing wrong with the roof just they are a little wide and you have to grind some metl off so it fits down into the rail. But better to have extra then come up to short.

Last night i was talking with a guy up the street about my rear. He's telling me a i can run a mid 90's camaro/firebird rearend and use the disc brake setup thats already there. So i think ill put my 12 bolt on the shelf and narrow the newer camaro/friebird.
Any in site on doing that?
Iv seen the rears run pretty cheap.
L8R

I think that those rear ends only have 7.5" ring gears and aren't very strong. I could be mistaken though.

Ya I think those are alot weaker then the 12bolt. If you dont want to cut the 12 bolt just get a 9" pleanty of disc brake kits available for those. I was worried about cutting the 12 bolt and I may do a 9 if I find one before getting to that stage but if not the 12 gets shortened.

Any 80's or 90's rear is very weak and will fail with any horsepower applied. Guys with built up 90's Camaros are installing 12 bolts like Moser sells.

you dont think they will take 350-450hp with out failing. Im not planing on running a 800 horse engine. This car is being built to drive and thats what i plan on doing with it.
PS: Check out Scott Turpin's 1969 Camaro Project on DSE's web site there are some good shots on the underside cross member. Not sure if thats what your looking for.

I have seen 8.5" 10 bolts let loose with 400HP depends on tires and type of trans. Manuals will tear it up quick and with the tire all it takes is one time with a good "hook" and your in trouble. with 350-400HP your probably going to be into the throttle more than you think, LOL it cant be helped. To be safe I would spend the extra now and do a 12 bolt or ford 9", even if you find a chrysler 8 3/4 you would be better off then the late model GM's. Just my opionion.

I looked at that 69 on DSE's site, I need 67 pics where the crossmember is straight across the back and not setup for staggered shocks. I wanted to make sure my cuts were in the right spot, after Scot called me from DSE the other day I feel better about the install i had sent pics of what I was doing and he showed a shop employee who installs theres and he said I was in good shape. I was just getting worried about the location of cuts, you can find pics of 69's and 68's on the web just not alot of 67's at least as far as the crossmember install. I appreciate the tip though.