Putting new bearings and races and seals .... onto new rotors .... onto new spindles tonight.

Does anyone know or have the proper instructions or directions on installing these new bearing, races, and seals ... into the new rotor ??

It LOOKS pretty straight forward ..... but really don't wanna fudge anything up.

The races must be pressed into the rotor, usually done by a shop.

Do you have a repair manual?

To press the race on...use the old race, but make the inside diameter slightly larger so it is loose...use this to put over the new one...then a pipe over that and start tapping down keeping the new race square.

got it ...
how far down do you "tap" ?
will it stop once it sets itself ?

u listen to the tap, then it has a 'solid sound' that when it hits bottom. A couple more taps to make sure its bottomed and square.
Note tap it...not hit it.

I would not suggest using an old race to hammer-home a new one. The races are hardened, and it is possible to damage the new parts. The best way is to press, though I have a tool that pilots on the race minor diameter, seats on the face, and can be used with a hammer with good results .

Ready...I'm gonna start as if you have the rotors off,thats pretty straight foward.Pull the seal off the rear take the inner bearing out and clean the grease up out of the center of the rotor,no real good way to do this just dive in with rags.BUT,try to keep the brake suface as clean as you can,dont handle it with grease on your hands etc try to keep a rag between this surface and your hand to hold it steady.After its cleaned up,and it doesnt have to be mirror clean,set the rotor on a flat surface either hub up or hub down you can start on either side,take a flashlight and look inside the hub,you'll see the inside or back of the opposite race and a small ledge of the race is sticks out wider than the hub.Take a screwdriver and put the tip on this ledge of the race and tap the screwdriver with a hammer working your way around the race,keep driving using firm ,steady,licks with the hammer till its out.Flip the rotor over and do the same thing to the opposite side race. Again,clean everything up good.Steptoe is right,the races can be put in just like he said, alot of shops actually have an old race with a pipe welded to it for doing just what he said. I'll will add this: sometimes when you put the new race in it will actually spin in the rotor,take you fingers and try to spin it after install.If it will move take it back out and again take you trusty screwwdriver and "score" the inside of the rotor where the race "seats" in the rotor...reinstall the race. Place the rotor outer bearing side down on a flat surface,take the inner bearing and place it in the palm of your hand open or big side up.Take the middle three fingers of your other hand and scoop up a liberal amount of bearing grease and press or push the grease in the open side of the bearing working all the way around,then smear some all over the outside of the bearing surface and rollers. Put the bearing into the inner race,tapered side 1st,obviously,clean the grease off the area just behind the bearing after install,thats where the seal mates to the rotor and it needs to be clean. Take the seal and place it ,open side toward the bearing, solid side up, in the hup behind the bearing,take a hammer and TAP the seal firmly ,but not hard ,working your way around until it's flush with the back of the hub of the rotor. Turn the rotor over,put a liberal amount of grease in the hub area between the two races,also put some grease on the spindle as well. Put the rotor on the spindle making sure to get it all the way back and get the seal seated on the built up area at the back of the spindle,probalbly will have to wiggle it a little. Grease the outer bearing as explained above,slip it on the spindle and slide it into the hub of the rotor till it seats in the race. put the washer with the notch in it on and slide it up to make contact with the back of the bearing. Run the nut down finger tight and get a wrench or I like to use channel locks,and here's the tricky part. Snug the nut down,spin the rotor a little,snug the nut down,spin the rotor a little and repeat this three or four times till everything is "snugged" down properly ,but I hate to tell you, this is a total "feel" thing and really not black and white.Line up an opening in the casle nut and install a cotter pin...put on the dust cover and if the spindles are new be prepared to cuss while doing this...be patient they are alittle hard to get started when new. IF YOU HAVE NEVER DONE THIS BEFORE: I strongly urge you to get someone who has to help you,its not rocket science but if its not done right it can damage some expensive stuff and and damage you as well. Kind of like riding a bike tho once you've done it you got it...so good luck

The races are hardened, and it is possible to damage the new parts.
Thats not right, the logic doesnt work... it could happen if u bash the crap out of it, but the damage would be u shatter the part not dent or bend it ...tapping down into place doesnt produce enough energy to be able to do damage...now if they where not hardened THEN the potentual for damage is greater.
When using a press to put them on basically the exact same process is used anyway.

I may have missed it in Pats post...run a smear of grease around the rubber seal, dont leave dry otherwise u will not get a good seal as it will rip the sealing surface.

Yeah pat I have a set I have made up over the yrs or pipes with retainers welded...thu these days I use them in the press.

There's actually a lot of logic to not using hardened tools to install hardened parts. Just because the new part is hardened does not mean it cannot be easily damaged.

The amount of force to fit the cup in a properly sized housing bore is going to require more than just a simple tap with a hammer. For the ground-down cup installation both the new and old rings are hardened, and the hard-to-hard interface can damage the new ring during a hammer impact. Even with some type of plate over the top of the old cup there is no way to gaurantee even loading during impact. That's one reason why all bearing manufacturers recommend the use of a soft steel tool during bearing installation, either hammering or press. Never should a hardened tool of any kind come in contact with the cup (or any bearing) during installation. Brass and aluminum are also a no-no for installation if using a punch/drift. Flaking of the tool can occur and contaminate the system. A soft steel bar will not damage the cup and will not flake like the others.

Theoretically hammering and pressing are the same. Practically they are very different animals. Pressing allows for slow and even force to be applied to the entire face of the bearing. Hammering is much more of a point loading installation, even with specialized tooling.

I dont want to get in a pi$$in match over this,but in the hundred or so times of replacing bearing and seals,either doing it myself or watching someone else do it on Chevy rotors I can honestly say I've never seen them them pressed in,how I explained it is the only way I've ever seen it done,and with no problems that I've ever encountered

Nope, just information exchange.

Check Step 3.

http://timken.com/industries/automotive/autoaftermarket/techtips/AutoTechTips_Vol1_Issue3.pdf

and another http://timken.com/products/bearings/techtips/PDFs/Vol5No2.pdf

There is no mention of using the old cup since it is not soft.

The article is also an excellent resource for rebuilding the front hubs on our cars.

Nope, just information exchange.
See Carl knows lol
Thats the problem with forums, its sometimes easy for things to be seen in the wrong light
There is the other alternative...the CO2 fire extingusher...cool 1 part down then just drop it into place...trouble is it gets expensive getting the extinguishers refilled when u pay for them yourself

Carl is right on about the hardness. I don't care what backyard method you choose, the press-in method is the CORRECT way to do it. Both the practical and engineering side of me says he knows what he's doing in this case.

I don't know if you understand this, but a very small knick in the race WILL ruin it and the bearing. Bearings and their races are not something you want to cheap-out on. It wont shatter like you mentioned.

Unless there is absolutely no other option I will not specify using CO2 or nitrogen to cool the rings, and even then it's very risky. The rings become very brittle at these lower temperatures.

A better option in our case is to heat the hub in the kitchen oven to 225*F using a temperature crayon to verify part temperature. The hard part is to get both cups in and seated at the same time. The hub may stay hot enough to get one cup in, seated, and up to temperature equilibrium so it will stay in place, then flip the hub over and install the other cup. If not the heating process starts over. With all that hassle paying $10 to have them pressed in while eating lunch at the Greasy Spoon starts to look really good.

Just say no to torches.....

damn ...
sorry for the lengthy topic guys.
just unwrapped my brand new rotors and I'll be dipped if they didn't come with new races already pressed into place ??? Is that common ???
Got them from Ground Up

Common, but not for every application. It's done primarily to help the jobber reduce his labor time.