I need some help. My engine is a sbc 350. The motor was running well before I replaced the heads with a set of afr heads. The components that were replaced were heads, afr 180cc, pushrods, comp 7.800,roller rockers scorpion 1.6. I replaced these parts then adjusted the rockers. This is the procedure that I used. With the exhaust lifter just starting up, adjust intake rocker. Removed slack and then 1/2 turn more. On the exhaust adjustment. I turned the motor until the intake went up then almost all the way down. Then adjusted out slack plus 1/2 additional turn. When the motor started I had no loud noises. It would backfire into the carb when I pushed down on the gas pedal. But it also was backfiring into the exhaust. I let the motor run for maybe 15 or 20 min then shut it off. When the motor was restarted stiil no motor noises but still backfiring and then gas poured out the top of my 700 d.p. like a stuck float or bad needle and seat. But I have a 650 d.p. After it was installed the motor only backfired into the carb and just a couple on times then stopped. The engine sounded normal for maybe a monute. Then the rockers got noisy and I shut the motor down. After I checked things out it looked like I stopped getting oil thru the pushrods. I got out my priming tool and ran it for a long time several minutes and on the drivers side oil would just barely come out the holes in the rockers. On the passenger side only on one rocker oil tricked out. The pushrods when pushed down feel solid against the lifter like they are not pumped up on the passenger side. I have great oil pressure at lease 50 lbs at idle on startup. What happened? Could the rockers have been adjusted to tight and ruined my lifters? Please help me engine builders.

To get oil out of all the pushrods you need to turn the engine over a little at a time while priming. Try that first. When you say the rockers got noisy are you SURE it was the rockers and not something else? Im willing to bet there is nothing wrong with the oiling system. All that backfiring to me sounds like it was way way retarded when you timed it. You did unplug the vacuum advance right? Your lifter preload procedure sounds correct. Did you also try feeling how the drivers side lifters feel?
When you replaced the heads did you check for valve to piston clearance? Did you line up the guideplates? 1/2 turn preload sounds like a good start. I usually dont use hydraulic cams in my engine builds so maybe others might have more help in that area.

Randy

The poping through the carb. sounds like you had the intake valves adjusted to tight.

Out the exaust and carb seems everything is too tight and not allowing the lifters to pump up. I would recheck your valve lash. Make sure your TDC on number one and go from there.

rlovell, I would not be suprised if some if not all of the backfiring was coming from the timing. My concern is with no oil coming from the pushrods. I know the pushrods are not plugged I checked everyone before I installed them. I did check the lifters on the drivers side, i pushed down on several pushrods and could tell it was pushing down. On almost all on the passanger side there was no movement on all I checked. I primed turned about 1/4 turn primed a while 1/4 turn more and so on for 2 revolutions of the crank. I primed until my battery ran down on my drill. Then I got out my electric drill an primmed some more 10 min. or probably a lot longer.

Also I readjusted all of the rocker and just took up the slack no 1/4 or 1/2 turn before priming still no oil out of pushrods.

Did you check to see if they are clean? I have seen some pushrods come packed in grease.

I checked each pushrod. I could see thru all. Here is a update. I hooked the primer back up and kept priming until I finally got oil to trickle out of all 16 rocker arms. I started the engine on the drivers side oil started coming out of the rockers. Not like I am used to seeing but shooting out about 2 in. or so. I got a oil squirter and kept lubing at the valve stems and trying to squirt down to the pushrods. I let the motor run quite a while none of the rockers had any oil come out of them on the passenger side. I had even removed some of the pushrods on that side to make sure they were not plugged.

If your primer does not fit like a dist you will not oil to the rockers. The dist, restricts the passage where oil flows to the lifter oil gallery. Having it running and no oil though???? Oil passes through the galler from lifter to lifter to lifter. I would still recheck valve lash and also look for bent pushrods, as this can screw upa lash setting quick. Rool them on a very flat surface, a piece of glass or an old mirror works great. Are the lifters the same ones in the car as before? Having the lash loose is going to be better than too tight. If lifters are new it's possible one or two have junk in them or defects.

What is the red fonted part?: Replaced were heads, afr 180cc, pushrods, comp 7.800,roller rockers scorpion 1.6.

Joe

Joe, comp 7.800 is his pushrod make (comp cams) and length(stock 7.800).


Wild Phil,
Before you run it any more I would seriously consider pulling the intake, and giving things a good look over before more damage is done. It really sounds to me like a clearance issue on the passenger side. The chances of putting in 8 defective/plugged lifters in one bank is ZERO. The collapsed lifters happened for a reason and you need to diagnose the problem. One thing that would collapse lifters in no time is coil bind. Did you check that? That would also explain why its only happening on one side. Especially if they were pre-assembled heads. Do you have a roller or flat tappet cam?

Randy

Joe the 7.800 is just the pushrod length 7.8 in. Guys let me know if this could be the problem. When I put the pushrods it I put a little assembly lube on the end could this have ran down the pushrod and be keeping the lifter from getting oil? Joe these are not new lifters they are the one That I was using before I changed my heads. Never took them out of the block.

guess we posted the same time :)

That assy lube is most definately NOT the problem.

Randy

Randy,
No I did not check for coil bind. The springs are for up to 550 lift and with the 1.6 rockers mine should be 505. So I quess you are telling me they are not always assembled correctly. I will check the coil bind and have a look at the lifters.

I will check the coil bind and have a look at the lifters.
Not only for coil bind, but, for retainer-to-guide clearance at max lift.

No oil in pushrods, or upper end of block could also indicate galley restrictors installed, oil plugs at the rear of the block installed too deeply, or oil pressure relief is stuck open.

umm Everett might be on to something here. The oil pressure relief stuck open. I don't claim to know alot about that part but might be worth a look. Other areas could be from tear down it got junk in it someplace? Old gasket or old RTV?

Ummm dirt or junk that fell into the tops of some of the lifters and did not get cleaned off or was not seen?

Joe

priming with a drill should take maybe 30 sec before you have lots of oil ,call on heads and ck with manufacture on oil holes

I still have questions. Have been checking a few things. First I gave airflow research a call to get the specs. on my springs. The specs are 120 seat pressure, 1.8 installed height, and coil bind 1.09. On my cam it has .462 lift intake and .470 ex. lift. With the 1.6 rockers if I figured correctly should be about .505. Is this right? Do I need to measure these? I started to try to measure intalled height but the pocket the springs set in are so close to the spring I could not get the true measurement. If I need to measure and make sure what airflow research tells me about the springs I need to know how. Hope someone can help me with that. When I called afr they asked me if I had taken a piston to valve clearance. I did not know any better and had not. The next thing I did was to pull the passanger side head and was very happy to see that there had been no contact. Is there still a chance of contact at higher r.p.m.? Do I still need to check this? After I checked all my pushrods on the passanger side on a piece of glass all proved to be straight. With the intake manifold off I tried my primer again not much oil past the lifters only a little came out on top. Not much on either bank. I pulled out the lifter closest to the back of the motor and a lot of oil was flowing. Then I pulled the lifter closest to the front of the motor and not much oil flowing. The next thing that I did was to pull the front timing gear an had a look at the plugs for the oil galleys. They were there but are loose. Loose enough that they would come out if the guy that built my motor had not taken a chisel and staked the edges of the holes to hold them in. I then started priming and oil comes out all three plugs. I don't know how much is to much but the center one is loosing the most. It is not gushing out but it is flowing out a constant flow. I can feel the pressure by pushing in with my finger and the oil pushes the plug back. The thing is on the passanger side it loses the least amount out its plug. But it is the side that has no oil comming out from the pushrods. Are these plugs my oiling problem? Also on my lifters all are out against the retainers but some are very solid feeling when pushed. While some feel like they can be pushed it a little. Is this normal? Thank all of you guys that have helped me. I never thought changing a set of heads would be such a problem!

Sound like you have the engine out of the car. If this is so your going to have to prime and turn the engine over at the same time your priming to get oil flow evenly throught the lifters. The ones that are stuff are most likely ones that had no valve seat pressure on them when you primed and the others that are soft had seat pressure. That being said the ones that are solid feeling will be spurting oil, while tha ones that are soft may not have enough oil in them to spurt from the pushrod. They will all need to get somewhat evened out. The hard ones will bleed down on the stroke that pushed that valve to full open with that lifter. 4 stroke engine and it will take a few revolulutions to do this (maybe 5 to 10) accuations of the valve and lifter, this = lots of turning. The same somewhat goes for the ones that need to pump up. The fwd lifters are going to be the last to get oil but may not be the last to pump up because of the firing order.

also nothing is stopping from this point from pulling a non pumped up lifter out and taking it apart. I would only do this one at a time though. You can also replace all the lifters and see what happens.

Joe

Heres a couple tips for you to get more basic clearances on the cheap(better than nothing) without spending much on tools. To measure the piston to valve(I dont think this is your problem), just stick some modeling clay on the tops of the valve reliefs, and lightly oil just the top of the clay. Then reinstall one head, and turn the engine over. Pull the head, and measure the deepest depression on both the intake and exhaust. Exhaust minimum is .090, intake .060. Pick up a set of cheap dial calipers. They will be your best friend. I would check one pair on each bank. Especially since you were having problems on only one side.

With your cam and 1.6 rockers, the lift should be .501 ex., .492 int. Thats not even close to the spings max lift so dont worry about coil bind.
1.800- 1.090 = .710 - .100(for clearance)= max lift of .610.
If they were pre-assembled heads from AFR, they are probably fairly close on the installed height. Try sticking a .020 feeler gauge in between the coils on max lift, just to be sure.

Now check retainer to seal/guide clearance. On max lift, just eyeball that they dont come in contact. Also, check retainer to rocker clearance. Again just eyeball that they dont contact on full rotation.

If those front galley plugs are loose, I would remove and reinstall new ones. And stake them well. Deburr the edges of the block where they install. If there is a burr, when they go in, the sides get broached and they lose the press fit.

Randy

As suggested, use a 1/2" electric drill motor to prime. Replace the plugs up front of the block. You have now primed the oil galley, which is a good thing. I suggest a 1/2" elec drill motor because when the pressure starts to build up, you WILL know it. It can put a hurting onto your wrists if you're not paying attention.

Use a primer with the section of material to substitute as the lower dist housing. if priming tool doesn't have this piece, you'll wasting your time priming. Summit sells their own brand, and Tavia primers, excellent investment. see here:

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM%2D901010&N=4294925138+4294848755+115&autoview=sku

Even with heads and pushrods off, you should still see oil coming from the tops of the lifters. If you have an oil pressure gauge installed, it should read at least 50 PSIG., 40 at the least. Rotate the engine several times to distribute the oil up front.

On the block, the top plug is the end of the main oil galley. This galley feeds the camshaft bearings and crank bearings. The other two plugs are the lifter galleys, feeding the lifters and the rocker arms through the pushrods.

If there is too much bearing clearance, ie, crankshaft, rod , and camshaft bearing, there won't be enough flow for the top end of the engine. Bearing clearances for the crankcase should be no more than 0.002-0.0025".

I will replace the oil galley plugs tomarrow. I have to take a break for a day. That motor is frustrating me. I think the bearings are ok. The motor has at lease 1000 miles on it and ran well. It also has the same cam and lifters. They were now replaced when I put these heads on. My oil pressure on my mech. gauge is 50 or 60 lbs. when I prime the motor. When I remove the back lifter and prime oil fills at least half the hole. Is that enough oil or not? Oil just barley comes out from the top of the lifters.

I have to take a break for a day. When I remove the back lifter and prime oil fills at least half the hole. Is that enough oil or not? .
I can understand taking a break. A man has to know his limits.

Oil should fill the hole. It reads like what I suggested earlier, oil restrictor plugs installed in the rear of the block on both lifter galleys. These plugs are usually made from brass. You do have good oil pressure.

From personal experience, I had one engine exhibiting similiar characteristics, by manually priming, oil barely came out of lifters. I installed the engine and cranked it up and I had more oil on the fenderwells than in the engine.

Everett, I am not sure I understand. Could there be oil restrictor plugs installed in the block if I just started having trouble after the heads were replaced? This engine including cam and lifters have at least 1000 miles on them after rebuild with no problem. I primed it some more today. First I removed the rear lifter and started priming. Enough oil is flowing through at this location to fill the galley hole. Is this sound like enough oil? I really don't know? If I replace the front lifter galley plugs. Will metal from the plugs or block break loose and get into the oil and bearings. Can someone answer this question? Since I have started and ran this motor with these heads, is there now no need to do a valve to piston clearance check or if at higher r.p.m. could there still be a problem?

Piston to valve really is an important clearance. You should check it. As well as everything else. You can still do it without removing the heads. You will need to invest in a spring compressor though. Moroso makes a nice on-head compressor for a reasonable price. Just remove two springs, replace with checking springs. Place a dial indicator on the valve tip and rotate the engine to where it has the least clearance. You will need to check the indicator travel about every .010 of movement when you are getting close.

To replace the plugs with minimal contamination, remove the rear, screw in plugs. Now insert a LONG rod through to the front plugs and tap them out. You will need to remove the lifters, so BE CAREFUL not to mix them up. Now carefully draw file the burrs out of the block, with an oily rag to catch chips. You will be fine. Cant answer the question about oil quantity in the lifter hole when priming, as Ive never really tried it myself. Good luck

Randy

I'm sorry if I missed your answer to the question "does your oil primer look like the bottom of a distributor". You may have said it does, but if it does not seal in the block the way your distributor does there is not much chance of getting a lot of oil to the lifters. You will have oil pressure, because the pump is making it, just not much flow to the lifters.

Keith

Yes my primer Has a bottom like a distributor. How does the amount of flow to the lifter galley sound?

Hope you got your problem solved. If using a 1/2 inch electric drill motor, it will take a while for the oil to get to the rocker arms.

The oil will dribble out the arms, but not shoot out as if driven by the engine. The procedure will thake about 3-5 minutes with the model of primer you have.

Everett, I am not finished yet. I have the head back on. The guide plates and lifters adjusted on the passanger side. I need still need to adjust the guide plates better on the drivers side. I don't have a 1/2 in drill. But I think I will. My other drill is almost gone now. I need to prime it better. I primed some before I adjuster my lifters. The lifters at least some filled with oil it even trickled out of the rocker hole. Last one to the rear. After I adjusted a lifter and when it went to full lift while I was turning the engine to adjust other lifters the pushrod would push down the cup on the lifter about 1/4". Like it was pushing the oil out. Is this normal?

did you soak the lifters in oil before you installed them?
I soak em a week, otherwise they take forever to prime.

Yes, it is normal for a lifter to "collapse" if it is not filled with oil. As JimM suggested, an old trick is to soak the lifters, letting gravity take its course and prime the lifters.

Another way to prime, and alittle faster, is to pour oil into a 1 lb coffee can where the oil level is above the lifters. Using a pushrod, push down on the inner body, then let it come up by itself. Do this several times per lifter to work out the air.

As the inner body comes up, the inner volume gets filled with oil. Now the lifter becomes solid/filled.

If the inner cup falls/pushes to the bottom, its not filled with oil. The purpose of a hydraulic lifter is to take up the lash. As the lifter goes up the cam lobe. the inner body goes down, oil seeps out. When the inner body gets below the fill hole, the hole becomes plugged and the lifter becomes solid, can't compress a fluid. After the lift & close cycle, the hole is opened up, and oil under pressure from the pump, fills the void.

If I pump up the lifters and put them back in, will the lifters stay pumped up or collapse at full lift, as the motor is turned while adjusting the lash on the other lifters?

Guys, I removed a lifter that was not pumped up. Put it in a coffee can with enough oil to go ever the top of the lifter, plus about 1/2 in. Then took a pushrod and pushed the cupped part of the lifter down at least 300 times. I could tell nothing was happening so I removed the lifter from the oil. When I took the pushrod and pushed the cup of the lifter in went all the way down and just barely any oil came out. What is up with this?

Lifters will stay primed/pumped up if clearances are tight between the inner body and outer body, Usually, 0.0002-0.0004 inch clearance, so it is small.

If max lift spring pressure is on the lifter, it will collapse over time.

You have one lifter not working correctly as the other fifteen? Probably has a bad check ball or seat. Get another new one, or get a new set of TRW lifters.

I need some help. My engine is a sbc 350. The motor was running well before I replaced the heads with a set of afr heads. The components that were replaced were heads, afr 180cc, pushrods, comp 7.800,roller rockers scorpion 1.6. I replaced these parts then adjusted the rockers. This is the procedure that I used. With the exhaust lifter just starting up, adjust intake rocker. Removed slack and then 1/2 turn more. On the exhaust adjustment. I turned the motor until the intake went up then almost all the way down. Then adjusted out slack plus 1/2 additional turn. When the motor started I had no loud noises. It would backfire into the carb when I pushed down on the gas pedal. But it also was backfiring into the exhaust. I let the motor run for maybe 15 or 20 min then shut it off. When the motor was restarted stiil no motor noises but still backfiring and then gas poured out the top of my 700 d.p. like a stuck float or bad needle and seat. But I have a 650 d.p. After it was installed the motor only backfired into the carb and just a couple on times then stopped. The engine sounded normal for maybe a monute. Then the rockers got noisy and I shut the motor down. After I checked things out it looked like I stopped getting oil thru the pushrods. I got out my priming tool and ran it for a long time several minutes and on the drivers side oil would just barely come out the holes in the rockers. On the passenger side only on one rocker oil tricked out. The pushrods when pushed down feel solid against the lifter like they are not pumped up on the passenger side. I have great oil pressure at lease 50 lbs at idle on startup. What happened? Could the rockers have been adjusted to tight and ruined my lifters? Please help me engine builders.
I just ran into the same problem with my ra iv 400 pontiac.My problem was that Manley 5/16 pushrods do not seat properly into Compcams hydraulic lifters.This caused a massive internal oil leak.Pull of your intake and prime the motor and see if you're experiencing the same problem.

I pulled both rear lifters and ran the primer. It looks like plenty of oil is getting there. Oil shot out of the lifter holes. But what happened to my lifters? I tried to check for coil bind. Cant get an accurate reading because lifter cups go down into lifter some. I went ahead and put a guage between the coils. A .065 gauge fit with room to spare.

bruno, was your oil leak at the point of lifter to pushrod contact? My lifter at least several are not filling with oil.
Everett, I only tried to pump up one lifter manualy. But there are several that did not fill with oil when I used the primer.

Lifters not filling with oil? are you turning the engine over as you prime? If not your not going to get oil into sme lifters.

Joe

I turned the motor over many times and primed until I ruined two drills. The ones I got oil into pushed the oil out when it went to max lift. What I cant figure out is why after I put the heads on. The motor started and ran without lifter noise for at least 15 min.

I have to think it's dirt or internals of the lifters are bad or have dirt or old oil buildup lodged in them? Have you tried a new set of lifters? Everything else seems to have been checked out. If you do this you will have to break them in as you would a new cam.

Joe

I think the new lifters would be the best thing to try next too. I think I will pull the cam out to make sure it is ok. I have the timing cover off so if something is wrong with it this is the time to change it.

I think the new lifters would be the best thing to try next too. I think I will pull the cam out to make sure it is ok. I have the timing cover off so if something is wrong with it this is the time to change it.
A good command decision.

I have a new cam and lifters in now. I have another question. When I get these scorpion 1.6 rocker arms tips centered on the valve stem, by moving the adjustable guide plates. The rocker arms are not parallel with each other. On the roller tip end the space is at its widest, The space gets smaller at the other end. Is this a problem?

Not following what your saying but is you roller tip alighed with the valve tip. Your push rods might be to short or to long? I will try to find what I am talking about someplace and post the link. Well that did not take long http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Products/Pushrods/

Joe

Joe, I think that I have the roller riding on the valve like the comp cams link. What I was trying to say was. If you were to look straight down at the intake and exhaust rocker on one cylinder. The ends on the intake manifold side are closer togather and the roller tip ends are farther apart (bigger gap).

You want the rocker tip centered over the tip of the valve, if they are not you might have to do something with guid plates. Watch the area where the pushrod comes thorugh the head. You don't want it binding there. If the heads were made for self alighning rockers you will have to clearance this area. If you don't they will bind up. Older heads are ok most of the time but it's always good to check.

As long as all you alighnment is ok on the top you should be ok. They tend to look like they have a spread like your decribing.

Joe

I still have the oiling problem. I decided after the cam and lifters were installed that I would prime the engine to see what would happen. The pushrods and rockers are in place but the lash has not been set. The nuts are backed off. I started priming and in about a minute or two oil was coming out of the pushrods and really flowing out of the top of the lifters on the drivers side. On the passenger side, I kept priming and turning the engine 1/4 turn at a time for 6 revolutions of the crank. The best I could get oil barey came out the rocker holes and only two lifters oil came out the top while priming. One on #2 cylinder and one on #4. Then I removed the back 3 lifters on both sides and primed,the oil flow looks the same on both sides. The only thing that I have not repaired is the oil leaking from the front cam plug and the two front oil galley plugs. I do not think enough oil is being lost there. But what do I know? I tried to remove the cam plug since it was leaking the most. I removed the edges from were it was staked. But the plug will not come out
. I thought the pressure of the oil while priming would push it out. The plug gets pushed back but will not come out. I think it is leaking more now. I can put my finger in the hole that still has the cam plug in it and a 1/8 inch stream shoots out. I don't now what to do now. I am about to pull my hair out.

If you have taped the 3 oil galley plugs(or installed the pressed in plugs)to deep in the front cover area,(behind the timming chain) they will block the passage to the lifters from the oil pump feed line and will cause oil to come out on one side.

I don't think the plugs are in to deep. When I prime the motor the pressure pushes the plugs back. Although the galley plugs are twice as deep in size as other galley plugs that I have seen. Do small block engines get oil pumped to the oil galley from the front of the block also? I thought all the oil came from the back of the motor. How do I remove these galley plugs on an engine that is installed in the car, without getting metal shavings in the motor?

I hate to say this but I don't know how to fix the oil gallery problem with out taking out the motor.I normaly tap the front oil galley plugs with short pipe plugs before final wash assem.It is best to use short pipe plugs and not tap to deep,But you have to tap deep enuff so that the timming gear clears.
I take out the rear pipe plugs in the rear then use a piece of 3 ft. threaded rod that fits in the galley,then tap the front press in plugs out.useing the threaded pipe plugs in the front is just insurance that it will not work itself loose.those plugs need to stay put,to seal oil pressure and make the oil go were it needs to.There is a oil passage from the front main bearing that goes to the lifter galley on the SBC.That is were you cann't go deep on that plug and block the passage.Check this out,It maybe your problem. Pappy

Pick up the book how to build a small block chevy or a chiltons, I think they have an oil gallery diagram in them. I don't have one handy that I can scan. I believe this will be a big help.

Joe

Discovered why no oil is getting to the pushrods. The Proform priming tool I bought the bushing is to low and does not line up good enough with the oil galley hole. I could only raise the tool a very small amount or it wound not engage the oil pump shaft. But when I primed oil started pushing out of the lifters. It should do really well if I can get the distributor groove to line up. And that is my next concern. Did the distributor not line up right with these new heads? Is this why I had no oil to the passenger when I started my car? I need to figure out a way to take some measurements to see if the distributor fits correctly. It has a narrow groove for the oil to pass.

New intake? Block decked? heads angle milled? If it's the manifold you had before was it milled to fit you old heads if the old heads were milled or angle milled? Is your dist stock or an MSD with adj collar? Is th oil pump drive rod all the way down on the oil pump? Was it one of the ones witha plastic collar that hols it to the pump? If so that collar could have broken.

Places off the top of my head to look at. Main thing is you figured it out congrats on that. Now just have to figure out why. Got a new caam outa the deal too right? Went a little different right?

I was just looking back and said in post #9 here to look at the prime tool. What did you notice this time that you did not see last time? Just wondering or was it one of those all to commen Homer Simpson dowws........:clonk:

Joe

Joe, on you question about me checking the priming tool, When I looked at it I just made sure it fit snug in the distributor hole and had the groove for oil to pass. I just did not think to check for the groove to the same level as the hole in my block. I learn more every day. The only thing I changed was my 461 heads to the airflow research heads. My intake is as used on the old heads, out of the box not machined for the heads. My distributor is a davis unit not a d.u.i but one with a smaller cap. No adjustable coller. One thing That I may change but should not be causing this oiling problem is the oil pump shaft. When I had this motor built the first time in about 1983 we installed a milodon 7 qt. oil pan. Back then some people used a big block oil pump and the milodon oil pickup must be differant because the guy that built my motor the last time told me he put a big block pump back on because of the oil pickup. While looking on summit about oil pump shafts, I noticed a shaft, I think by moroso for a sbc with a big block oil pump and it is .125 shorter. When my engine was all togather I remember the distributor collar is just barley above the intake surface, I used a plastic shim. But I really dont know if this is why because I believe my heads have been decked or whatever it is called ( are there numbers stamped on passanger side deck in front on stock block) mine is smooth.

My 69 is running again. Started it up and broke the cam in. And I am getting oil up on top. There is a oil leak from the oil pan. I just lowered the front of the oil pan when I replaced the timing cover. Guess that I did not get it sealed good enough. Also there is a small leak from the water pump gasket. I didn't get it torqued to 30 ft. lbs. I did not know what to torque the bolts to when I put it on. But I should have these things repaired this weekend. I wanted to thank everyone who responded to my questions. I really enjoy this forum. The people here are good people.

Wow what an ordeal, but it's great to know it's back up and running. The other little things now don't seem so bad now do they.....LOL. I hope to have mine running or should I say runable in about a month. It may not be in the car, but I might crank it and run it in the subframe to break in the cam and lifters. Get a tune then install the sub frame with engine etc when the car is painted.

Joe

Great to hear man! Fix up the little leakies and drive the heck out of it! Enjoy!

Randy