Heys guys,

I have reead the forums on rocker lifter adjustments but I am confused on one thing. Sould I adjust them with the engine warm or cold? or does it matter. I have roller rockers and Hyd. Lifters. I plan on doing the EOIC method.

Thanks in advance.

Gotsnappy

cold

thank you

Okay, I have another dumb question.

1. I have my #1 cyl set, The harmonic balancer line(groove in it) is set to my 0 on the timing tag. Is this correct the EOIC method.

2. Once I have taken the lash out(where the rod does not go up and down and where I can feel alittle frictin when spining the rod) I tighten the nut another half turn. This make the rod where I cannot spin it anymore. Is that correct or too tight?

Thanks in advance

I think a better method, rather than twisting the pushrod between your fingers, is to jiggle the rocker arm up and down while slowly tightening the nut. As soon as you get no more up and down movement, you are at zero lash. Then you can add your half turn of preload.

OKay, I think I have it now. once I get rid of my up and down movementI am at zero lash(but you can still spin the rod).

Just to make sure I am clear, once you have tightne down your rod the extra 1/2 turn Will your rod still be able to spin?

I use the above to set intially...ie new un fired engine.
Then when hot, adjust (check) while running.
Bach off till just hear the "clacking", wind down 1/3 to 3/4 turn.
I have an old cover with a slot cut out to stop oil spraying everywhere.
Almost everytime adjusting cold, when hot, there will be 1 or 3 that have a very faint tap.
Using both doesnt hurt for a 2x check.

thanks for the replies!

Does the groove in the balancer line up with the "0" mark and the 1 piston at TDC only happen on the compression stroke? Someone was trying tell me that I had to make sure that when the line is @ "0" and #1@TDC I need to be on the compression stroke....as if it happen at another time as well...???

just spin the engine when one valve opens all the way the other valve is closed and its time to adjust that valve and keep on goin until you hit them all I like marking them with a lil paint pen so I know which ones i have done. If the engine is installed with starter and all the electrics than buy yourself a lil switch they make to bump the starter and turn the engine over so you can watch the valves and make it easier on yourself.

btw the book says 1/4 of a turn after zero lash ... but most people go anywhere from a 1/4 to 3/4 its difficult and you may have to play with them once the engine has warmed up and ran ...rollers are very picky.

Wait a minute... what does #1 @TDC and the balancer line up have to do with adjusting valve lash? I thought you just installed your rockers, slightly tightened them down and then rotated the engine and performed the method where you adjust the intake when the exhaust is at a certain point...

I think he was planning on starting at the number 1 cylinder and go from cylinder to cylinder at least thats what my pea brain was taking out of the last posting... that is why i posted my 2 cents worth

Does the groove in the balancer line up with the "0" mark and the 1 piston at TDC only happen on the compression stroke?
No...the engine is a 4 stroke
TDC comes up at number 6 also..180 degs

No crap a 350 chevy is a 4 stroke engine darn i would of never guessed ... Some folks may have something else to say but i don't think there has ever been a gasoline car engine that displaced anywhere near 350 CID.... I do know that the old detroit diesel tractor engine was 2 stroke but i would like to see someone shoehorn that baby into a car!

No crap a 350 chevy is a 4 stroke engine darn i would of never guessed
Yeah...I was suprised to, never read the intro to my manual before !!!

just spin the engine when one valve opens all the way the other valve is closed and its time to adjust that valve and keep on goin until you hit them all I like marking them with a lil paint pen so I know which ones i have done. If the engine is installed with starter and all the electrics than buy yourself a lil switch they make to bump the starter and turn the engine over so you can watch the valves and make it easier on yourself.


When the exhaust just starts to open adjust the intake on that cylinder. When the intake fully opens and starts closing adjust the exhaust on that cylinder. Timing marks mean nothing at this point.

You cannot assume when a valve is fully open the other is closed. When the exhaust is fully open the intake is definitely on the base circle for adjustment.

Jody

hmmm wasn't that just what I said ... I'm confused :confused:

go here to get the correct way to adjust the lifters.
http://www.centuryperformance.com/valveadjustment.asp

hmmm wasn't that just what I said ... I'm confused :confused:


No, you said:

"just spin the engine when one valve opens all the way the other valve is closed and its time to adjust that valve and keep on goin until you hit them all "

That will be close for adjusting the exhaust valve (intake fully open), but won't be correct for adjusting the intake. You want the exhaust to just start to open for adjusting the intake, not be fully open.

Jody

oh ok well i disagree with you then and would not let you adjust my valves :)

Engine "OFF" Hydraulic Lifter Adjustment:

Warm the engine by running it until it gets to operating temperature (15-minutes or so). Have all your tools ready and then quickly remove the valve cover(s) and start the adjustment procedure by using the chart above. With the #1 Intake valve at FULL LIFT (this means that you spin the engine until the Intake valve on the #1 cylinder is fully open ... you can tell this by the rocker arm pushing the down until it goes no further) you can now adjust the "opposite in firing order" cylinder (see the above chart). In the small and big block Chevy engines this is the #6 cylinder. Loosen the rocker (if using roller rockers there is a Jam Nut that you must loosen with an Allen Wrench). Now, with two fingers spinning the pushrod between them to feel for resistance you easily snug the adjustment nut. When you feel resistance STOP, now you will adjust the nut down "Only" 1/8-1/2 turn. If you operate your engine a consistent high RPM, use the lighter setting (1/8 turn).

What is 1/4 turn? (see image at right)
Well, imagine the hands on a clock. You have the obvious 12:00, 3:00, 6:00, and 9:00 settings as well as the numbers in-between those. If you start with your wrench at the 12:00 position and turn it clockwise to the 6:00 position you have just made 1/2 turn. Going from 12:00 to the 3:00 position would be 1/4 turn.
What is 1/4 Turn?
http://www.centuryperformance.com/images/tech/wrenchturn_small.gif (http://www.centuryperformance.com/images/tech/wrenchturn.gif)
click image to enlarge



Now, you will do this for all the intake valves and then do the exhaust valves the same way.
PRECAUTION: If you have an older high mileage engine that the lifters bleed off pressure (drain the oil out of). You can improperly adjust your valves. You need oil in the lifters to be able to get an accurate setting. If you repeatedly adjust the valves this way and they are still not correct, you probably have lifters bleeding off during adjustment. You have two options: Replace the Lifters -= or =- adjust the valves the "HOT" method as below.
back to top (http://www.centuryperformance.com/valveadjustment.asp#Valve)
Engine RUNNING Hydraulic Lifter Adjustment:

Ok, so you really like messes? This has to be one of the most miserable maintenance procedures if you do not properly plan ahead.

Some helpful hints:

Adjust only one side of the engine at a time.
Use oil restrictors on the rocker arms, or better yet a butchered up valve cover that has an access cut into the top of it to facilitate adjustment access.
Stay calm ... you WILL get burnt, you WILL make a mess and you WILL not look forward to doing this again, especially if you screw up the first time.
Using a mechanic's stethoscope can substantially make this procedure easier
Adjusting hydraulic lifters with the engine running is not one of my favorite activities (as you can tell). With the above considerations taken care of, start the engine and loosen one of the rockers. You should hear it just start to "clatter". Slowing tighten it down until the "clatter" just stops and then turn it 1/4 - 1/2 turn additional to set the pintle depth. Continue on all the valves. If you hear excessive noises or the vehicle runs crappy you will be doing the procedure again. As stated above, if you have access to a mechanic's stethoscope, you can set the end at the top of the rocker stud to listen to the noise a loose adjustment makes, which will make finding "zero" lash easier.
NOTE:If you make a mess, PLEASE check your oil level once you are done.

Solid Lifter Adjustment:
First warm the engine to operating temperature (about 15-minutes) and then quickly remove the valve covers. Follow the chart above. With the #1 Intake valve at FULL LIFT (this means that you spin the engine until the Intake valve on the #1 cylinder is fully open ... you can tell this by the rocker arm pushing the down until it goes no further) you can now adjust the "opposite in firing order" cylinder. In the small and big block Chevy engines this is the #6 cylinder. Loosen the rocker (if using roller rockers there is a Jam Nut that you must loosen with an Allen Wrench).
Now, based upon your cam card (cam specs) you should know what the valve lash setting should be. Let's say that your valve lash setting is .022". Get out the .022" feeler gauge and place it between the top of the valve stem and the rocker arm tip. Snug down the rocker "just" until you begin to fell resistance. The valve lash setting should not be tight ... the feeling should be about the same as putting a knife through a stick of cold butter. Not too hard, not too soft. Now, hopefully you are using "positive-lock" rocker arm retention instead of just pinched rocker nuts or Nylox. If using rocker nuts your job is done, go to the next valve. If using positive-locks, hold the body of the lock in place with a box end or open end wrench (there are special tools for this available) and then tighten the Allen screw.
NOTE: In most cases the Allen screw will make a slight "click" when it is tight. Now, go adjust the remaining valves.

Introduction to Adjusting Solid and Hydraulic Lifters:

The simplest way to adjust a hydraulic or solid lifter cam whether it is a tappet or roller cam is described below. But FIRST, what you need to forget about is all that information that many individuals (and books) taught you in the past. In many cases, if interpreted wrong you could be in for more trouble than before you tried to adjust the valves yourself. Think about things that can affect your valve lash, you will need this bit of common sense before you get into this, because there are other considerations besides just putting a wrench on something and attempting to follow the cam card, or shop manual.

What type of cam are you running? (Hydraulic, Solid, Hydraulic Roller, Solid Roller, Mushroom Tappet)
Are you running aluminum heads?
Are ALL of your valvetrain parts in proper working condition?
Are your valve springs the correct ones for the camshaft and operating RPM?
What type of driving (or racing) are you going to be using the engine for?
Do you have the tools and basic knowledge required to adjust your own valves? The last one is quite important. If after you read through this and are still a bit confused, give up and have someone else do it, or have them at least walk you through it to make sure you understand the procedure. Now, if you are wondering what can go wrong there is a quite a few bad things that can occur:

Poor running engine and low performance
Failed smog testing (if this is a smog-legal street driven vehicle)
Burnt exhaust valve(s)
Broken valvetrain components (springs, pushrods, lifters, camshaft)
Limited lifespan of valvetrain components
Excessive valve guide and seat wear
Blown up engine
Lose an important Race!
Empty Bank Account The above list, though quite simple to understand, should scare you. It takes only a few thousandths of an inch of adjustment error to cause those problems. Now lets' get to the actual process. I am going to simplify this a bit, so if your valvetrain is somewhat different you will need to verify the correct procedure for your application.
IMPORTANT NOTE:
Those of you with Ford, and other engines with "Non-Adjustable" valvetrain ... YOU MUST verify that your machinist did his job correctly when setting the valve stem heights, and then YOU must also verify proper pintle depth when using Hydraulic lifters. If you switch to solid lifters it is nearly mandatory that you convert to adjustable valvetrain (I'd say this is mandatory in all RACING applications as well as any application where you want to actually have control of your valve lash setting).

back to top (http://www.centuryperformance.com/valveadjustment.asp#Valve)
Valve Adjustment The Quick Way:
Ok, now to the good stuff! First, view this little chart for Small and Big Block Chevy Engines that I made and see if you can understand it ... for other engines, use your firing order that matches your engine to do the same. You set up this procedure based upon "opposite" cylinders of your firing order. (see below)
Intake Valve Adjustment: ENGINE OFF!
with #1 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #6 Intake Valve
with #8 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #5 Intake Valve
with #4 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #7 Intake Valve
with #3 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #2 Intake Valve
with #6 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #1 Intake Valve
with #5 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #8 Intake Valve
with #7 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #4 Intake Valve
with #2 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #3 Intake Valve
Exhaust Valve Adjustment: ENGINE OFF!
If you have noticed, this is the same procedure as the intake valves listed above, just that you are now adjusting the exhaust valves the same way.
with #1 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #6 Exhaust Valve
with #8 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #5 Exhaust Valve
with #4 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #7 Exhaust Valve
with #3 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #2 Exhaust Valve
with #6 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #1 Exhaust Valve
with #5 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #8 Exhaust Valve
with #7 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #4 Exhaust Valve
with #2 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #3 Exhaust Valve
back to top (http://www.centuryperformance.com/valveadjustment.asp#Valve)
Need an explanation?
http://www.centuryperformance.com/images/tech/camlobe.gif Well, what you have here is "opposite" valves on the engine cycle. The small and big block Chevy engines use a firing order of 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. What you do is separate the order into the two sides of the firing order. These are "exact" opposites that put the opposing valve at the correct location for adjustment, meaning the back side (base circle, or heal) of the cam lobe (see image at left). This procedure works on most V8 and V6 engines. (base circle, or heal) of the cam lobe (see image at left). This procedure works on most V8 and V6 engines. (base circle, or heal) of the cam lobe (see image at left). This procedure works on most V8 and V6 engines. (base circle, or heal) of the cam lobe (see image at left). This procedure works on most V8 and V6 engines.

1 - 6

8 - 5
4 - 7
3 - 2





If the lifter is anywhere other than on the heal of the cam where there is NO ramp contact you will have incorrect lash. The chart above makes sure you are on the backside of the cam lobe. When the cylinder is at TDC, this is not often the correct location to get the proper lash setting.

there so stop arguing lol

I use the ICEO method, that way I don't have to remember any particular order of adjustment. I go from front to back on one side then the same on the other. 1/2 turn of preload on a 3/8" stud is approximately .034" at the lifter.

oh ok well i disagree with you then and would not let you adjust my valves :)


If you adjust the intake valve with the exhaust fully open I won't let you adjust my valves either! :D

Jody

I have my intake off and when rotate my engine so that ANY exhaust valve is fully open, the intake lifter next to it is not on the base of the lobe. The intake lifter is not seated all of the way down in the bore. Actually, if you read "dawg's" couple of posts from centuryperformance.com it states that when the exhaust valve is fully open you do adjust the intake...but on cylinder #6...not the intake next to it.

I have hydraulic lifters so I like the EOIC method best because I can warm up the engine, quickly remove one valve cover, adjust them, put the cover back on, warm up the engine again, and then do the other side

Okay...thats it...nobody adjusts my valves but me!

If anyone sets their valve lash other than when the lifter is on the base of the lobe then you're doing it wrong. People can say or post anything they want to ...but all I know is that the proof is right there in front of me when I have the intake off. If the lifter is not all of the way down in the bore then it is not on the base. The intake lifter is NOT on the base of the lobe when its exhaust valve is fully open. I don't see why this is controversial?

Ok dawg i like you .. you can do my valves :) (mainly because you do them the same way i do lol)

Ok dawg i like you .. you can do my valves :) (mainly because you do them the same way i do lol)

He does? :confused: Re-read his posts. When he has the exhaust fully open on a cylinder he is not adjusting the intake on that same cylinder.

I'm not picking on you in any way, but since this info stays on the board for a long time and will be searched out in the future by someone, I think it's important that the correct info is in the thread. Do not adjust the intake of cylinder #1 when the exhaust of #1 is fully open, it is not on the base of the lobe.Now if you want to do it Dawgs way and put the #1 exhaust fully open to adjust the #6 exhaust valve then that works perfect. But not for the intake on the same cylinder as the open exhaust.

Jody

... Do not adjust the intake of cylinder #1 when the exhaust of #1 is fully open, it is not on the base of the lobe....
Jody

We need to post an end on pic of one cylinders worth of camshaft.... then what you're saying will make sense to all.