Hi guys - sorry for this long post.

Background - About 15 years ago I swapped a complete 69 or 70 Nova front vacuum disc system onto my 69 Camaro, which was previously manual 4 wheel drum. The metering valve was frozen solid, but I swapped it over anyway. The brakes work very well.

The booster, dist block and metering valves all look pretty scuzzy, so I thought I'd replace some parts. Last fall I bought a new MC, and last Friday I found a nice used booster. I just wanted to make sure that what I bought will work.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v61/gort69/DSCN3315.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v61/gort69/DSCN3316.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v61/gort69/DSCN3317.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v61/gort69/DSCN3318.jpg

Already, I see a problem. The MC I bought has the deep hole, while the booster has the short rod. (story of my life - smart as a mule and hung like Einstein) I haven't taken my old system apart yet - but assuming my old booster has the long rod, how do I go about swapping it into the new booster?

Can I just do away with the metering valve? I DO NOT have the proportioning valve on the frame rail.

Is the later model combination valve the way to go? If so, do I need flare adapters to make it all work, and could someone give me source and a part#?

Also, could someone verify from the pics that this is indeed a disc/drum MC?

And could someone verify that this new booster will work? The guy didn't know for sure what was off of, but he thought it might be late 60's Chevelle. (It was cheap)

Sorry for the long post, and thanks for your answers.

Al, the power booster that you have there looks like the 11 inch Delco-Moraine style booster, which is the same one I have on my Camaro. That power booster will work on all first gen Camaros as long as there isn't any issues with clearance such as valve covers, it should fit okay. You will need to buy a proportioning valve kit, which I bought mine from Classic Industries kit #391350 for disc/drums brakes. Also that looks like the correct master cylinder in the picture which are bigger than the manual drum masters. You will need to switch out the push rod for the longer rod since the new master has the deeper hole. When I bought the kit, both sizes were included. Classic also sells the longer rod in a kit # PBK10 or you may be able to find the longer push rod at your local auto parts store. They are easy to change out. Just apply a little grease to the rod before putting it in to the booster. :thumbsup:

dont use grease. it could eventually eat the rubber oring on the rod. use silicone lubricant. The rod from your old booster might pull right out for a swap.
if not, get one like Dave said, or you can get a rod extension from BAER.

The booster ought to work as long as the pedal rod fits.
IMO you could do away with the metering valve, esp since the one on there is stuck open and your brakes work fine anyway.

Whether or not you need the combi valve kit, or a rear proportioning valve is up to you. It depends on you and your car. If the rears lock on hard stops on slippery surfaces, you will need rear proportioning. The classic kit has the front metering inside the valve, and may also have a rear proportioning valve inside, as well as the warning switch.

I cant pull up the info on that part# right now from classic, but if it is a kit, it ought to have all you need for the swap, including the bracket and lines from the master. You might need an adapter for at least one line if the kit doesn't have one.

BTW, the suffix 1350 on that kit corresponds with the delco valve 172-1350, listed for 1974 Firebird and Ventura. I have not tested one, but it is reported to be a 2 function valve with no rear proportioning, only front metering.

If you just eliminate the current metering valve, you can run a line from the master directly to the switch, eliminating it. This is esentially what you have now since your valve is non-fuctioning.
If you need rear proportioning, you can put an adjustable one in your rear line, or the OE style is now being reproduced. Either require the rear line to be spliced, or a 2 piece rear line.

Thanks for the speedy replies, guys. A couple more questions -

The short rod on the booster - just grab it with pliers and pull out through the front?

The pedal rod - is it replaceable as well? (Assuming it's a different length than what I have)

The front rod should just pull out. On some boosters it is integral, so dont yank too hard. That one should just pull out though.

The rear rod is integral. It should have a threaded end. If too short you can extend it. If it has an incorrect eylet end, or is too long, you have to cut it and rethread.
You also have to be really carful not to move it around too much in the booster or it could damage the valve.
Check the booster with a vacuum pump before installing. Make sure it holds vacuum.

Once you have the front rod length taken care of, you should still test fit the master to make sure the rod does not push on the master cylinder piston.

Thanks again! The front rod does indeed just pull out - little o-ring on the inner end - looks to be in good shape.

The booster holds vacuum just fine - tested by the human vacuum pump, and held overnight.

The pedal rod is definitely too long, and has an eyelet on the end of it. I looked under my dash and I DO need a threaded end. Just meaure, cut and thread? How critical is exact length? (thousndths or just ballpark with a tape measue?) It looks like there's a bit of adjustment where the pedal eyelet threads onto the rod.

Sorry for all of the questions, and thanks.

PS I slso notice a clip of some sort on the pedal rod where that rod enters the booster - is it just to hold that piece of foam in there?

There is some adjustment. You should be able to line it up with the old booster, cut and rethread as needed. I have not had to do this on a booster yet, but I know it's been done.

You might have a 2ndgen booster since it has the eylet.
Some boosters need the bracket holes elongated to match the firewall bolts on some cars.

I dont know about the clip. could be to hold that boot.

ROTFLOL!!!

He, He!!!

Story of my life too!!

But never heard it put that way before!! He, He!!!

pdq67

Do you have to have the car running to bleed the brakes ,that has a booster
Thanks-------------------
69 Z

no

You can do without the combination valve if you want, then just use an adjustable prop valve in the rear line, you have to install a T in the front line to split it to each front wheel.
I have a writeup on combination valve function on my web page, but most of the valve's function is to get smooth brake application even with an auto trans and auto choke stopping on icy roads, this is where the valves help.