I primed my motor on the engine stand using just the priming SHAFT. I only got oil coming out of the drivers side lifters and got around 40psi with a 800 rpm drill. I switched to my 1600rpm drill and got 50psi ( It's a high volume pump )and still no oil on the pass side. Is this normal if I don't use a old dist or the other type of shaft with the collars? I would guess that psi would show good bearings?Am I correct?

Thanks

You need the collar at the bottom of the tool that matches the distributor housing to bridge the oil galleries so you can build oil pressure and feed the lifter galleries. Without the collar, you're just pumping oil back down the hole into the pan. :thumbsup:

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2002-2/13522/PrimeTool.JPG

:beers:

I figured that. 50psi isn't bad for no collar right?

either use the colar OR, I use a old distributor body with the teeth ground off the gear. With the colar, the oil is forced to go to the lifters, without it, it just runs down the dist hole into the pan.

assemble the engine with assembly lube.
install engine, distributer , starter, oil and an oil filled filter.
crank engine until there is oil pressure.
Now all the oil galleries are full.
add cap rotor, spark plugs fuel etc and fire it up.

Using the often written about (though wrongly so) priming tool (GM doesn't use one) to fill the pushrods with oil then removing that tool DRAINS the oil galleries,, Smooth move huh, exlax.

Magazine writers are AD writers who just repeat what erroneously written before them and what the advertisers tell them to write.

[QUOTE=hhott71Using the often written about (though wrongly so) priming tool (GM doesn't use one) to fill the pushrods with oil then removing that tool DRAINS the oil galleries,, Smooth move huh, exlax.[/QUOTE]

The point of using the prime tool is to verify that the galleries are clear and every rocker is getting oil, not to maintain oil pressure. The oil pump re-pressurizes the galleries almost instantly.

Oil was fed to new engines on the hot-test stands (one every twelve seconds at Flint V-8) under pressure, through an adapter that clamped on the filter boss on the block; the oil system was under full pressure from the adapter before the engine was started for the first time. I spent a LOT of time at Flint V-8 in the late 60's when I was with Chevrolet Engineering.

:beers:

assemble the engine with assembly lube.
install engine, distributer , starter, oil and an oil filled filter.
crank engine until there is oil pressure.
Now all the oil galleries are full.
add cap rotor, spark plugs fuel etc and fire it up.

Using the often written about (though wrongly so) priming tool (GM doesn't use one) to fill the pushrods with oil then removing that tool DRAINS the oil galleries,, Smooth move huh, exlax.

Magazine writers are AD writers who just repeat what erroneously written before them and what the advertisers tell them to write.

Where did you hear that GM doesn't prime their engines? Source?

assemble the engine with assembly lube.
install engine, distributer , starter, oil and an oil filled filter.
crank engine until there is oil pressure.
Now all the oil galleries are full.
add cap rotor, spark plugs fuel etc and fire it up.

Using the often written about (though wrongly so) priming tool (GM doesn't use one) to fill the pushrods with oil then removing that tool DRAINS the oil galleries,, Smooth move huh, exlax.

Magazine writers are AD writers who just repeat what erroneously written before them and what the advertisers tell them to write.

At least you spared us the humor you have thrown out in some of the other threads you've replied to... Why the shots at mag writers? I didn't see any reference to a magazine.

As John points out if you can get oil to the rockers and build some pressure when operating the oil pump you know you are good to go when you fire it the first time.

The down side to your suggested approach is if there was a oiling problem you just cranked the engine over for how long waiting to see the oil pressure climb? How much assembly lube did you use? Was it enough? Are you going to go get a priming tool next so you can trouble shoot or keep cranking?

The point of using the prime tool is to verify that the galleries are clear and every rocker is getting oil, not to maintain oil pressure. The oil pump re-pressurizes the galleries almost instantly.

You did clean the galleries before assembly I hope.

After changing the oil and filter even with pre-filling the filter, it takes a few seconds for the gauge to show pressure.

It only takes a couple of cranks with the starter to show oil pressure.
when done this way.
assemble the engine with assembly lube.
install engine, distributer , starter, oil and an oil filled filter.
crank engine until there is oil pressure.
Now all the oil galleries are full.
add cap rotor, spark plugs fuel etc and fire it up.

Where did you hear that GM doesn't prime their engines? Source?
I didn't infer that any car maker slaps them together and fires them up either.
They also don't sit around with "Priming tool faux distributes" and look at the rockers to see oil dribble out.

I gave my opinion, its a sound opinion. If you don't like it, read on . If you don't like what I have to say, Skip over it,don't read my opinions.
It does work. its been verified and never once had one problem doing the way I have stated.

I gave my opinion, its a sound opinion. If you don't like it, read on . If you don't like what I have to say, Skip over it,don't read my opinions.

This is a 2 way street, When you interject comments like Smooth move huh, exlax refering to the way someone else suggested you are doing exactly what you are telling others not to do. This site is about helping each other not tearing down someones advice in an effort to support your own. Had you not posted in an attacking manor we wouldn't be taking this thread off topic...