I have a 68 base coupe 327/pg. that I recently purchased (for too much). The car is in fairly good shape except rusted trunk and floorpan and some poorly dyed interior parts. The paint was changed from ash gold to lemans blue (cheap paint job). I don't think the body has any other rust problems. I'm going to strip the paint to the metal and was wondering what the best way to finish the inside of the pieces that will be off the car for corrosion protection.

When you strip the car you MAY be in for a surprise, lets hope not. I would use por15. It is tough as nails, goes on easy and can be painted if need be. Just apply as per the directions and you'll have no problem. Bob

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by 69er:
When you strip the car you MAY be in for a surprise, lets hope not. I would use por15. It is tough as nails, goes on easy and can be painted if need be. Just apply as per the directions and you'll have no problem. Bob<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I would have to agree Por 15 is as hard as nails the # is 1-800-457-6715

If you dont use the POR-15, try some DP-90 or something of that line(epoxys, or zinc coatings).

------------------
67 Camaro SS Conv.
70 Challenger R/T Conv.

Thanks for the suggestions. I have a related question about the inner surfaces of fenders, deck lid, door jambs, etc. If I refinish these, should I go ahead and apply a color coat to the areas(I'm thinking mainly of the spaces where the panels meet)?
I worried about what was under the paint too 69er, but I've removed the carpet, rear seat, door panels, and crawled nervously all over it, and so far only the spots on the floorpan, trunk, and a light surface rust on the underside of the package shelf panel are visible. Evidently the guy I bought it from just sprayed some CHEAP paint straight over the original ash gold paint (no sealer/primer).

If your going to tear this thing apart, why not re-do all the jambs and undersides of the panels? If your going to be going any sanding, you will need a sealer coat put on or its going to show all kinds of sand scratches. And if you do any kind of refinishing, of course your going to need to spray some color on it before it gets cleared off. And any kinds of repair(ie: rust), use a 2k type primer.

Ragtopman,
That's kinda what I'm asking about, but as I re-read my post I see that I'm not very clear. O.k., what I'm trying to figure out is the best way for me to deliver a primed body to a painter. I want to do the striping and priming, and I figured that the body needs to be together when they spray the bc/cc.
I'm going to use methylene chloride for the striping (I hate sanding) and some kind of etching primer (I've only used sherwin williams G.B.P. in the past). I'll paint the underside of the hood, deck, fenders, etc., but what I wondered was, for those areas that are transitional like the edge of the fender where it meets the door, or around the top of it where there's color under the hood, or the door jambs, should I paint those areas body color before I put it back together? If so, do I need to use bc/cc.
I have a furniture shop and would like to spray it there, but I have enough experience spraying furniture to know that I don't really want to practice on this car or spend $130/gal. practicing on a rusted out '81 corolla. On the other hand, the price for a pro to do it would pay for a lot of practice, on the other other hand, a pro painting it will save me a bunch of cussing.

My car is in the shop right now stripped. They have the panels on and aligned to do the body work and to align the new parts (the new quarters had to be aligned with the doors hung which had to align with the front fenders and so on) now that the body work is finished, they plan on priming and block sanding 'til things are nice and smooth and then - to answer your question - they are going to take all the panels off and paint the edges and paint the door jams and other hard to reach areas. They will then reassemble and align the doors, fenders, hood, front end and then spray the whole car. Hope this sequence helps. By the way, they recommended putting the drivetrain in after stripping the car down to make it sit right for correct alignment and so I wouldn't booger up the paint job when dropping in the engine.


[This message has been edited by denverRS/SS (edited 08-24-2000).]