Here's a pic of the problem. This is the area below the package tray. Do you guys think I should worry about it. If so, how would you go about fixing it?

http://images.cardomain.com/member_img_a/214000-214999/214503_51_full.jpg

RamJam that sure looks familar to me. Im guessing most of us have been dealing with rust alot. I went the POR route, be a contortureist and reach up with sander, sand paper, 3M scotchbrite, wire brush, anything to get the heavier rust off, then POR suggests using their Marine Clean, rinse with water, then use their Metal Ready and let sit, then rinse, then apply their POR15 and you end up like the last pic here. It takes alot of time, cut fingers and reaching into dark areas but well worth the effort. If you have welder and wallet, you can cut out the bad parts as some will suggest too. I dont have that equipment so I went this route. Others might suggest options for you too. Good luck. graemlins/thumbsup.gif

http://www.brainerd.net/~knudsen/69RS/DCP02361.JPG
http://www.brainerd.net/~knudsen/69RS/DCP02362.JPG
http://www.brainerd.net/~knudsen/69RS/DCP02587.JPG

Click.... brush or spray?

I brushed on the POR with the cheap foam brushes, little ones for up under the tray and in corners and big one for floor and what I can reach on fenders.
The clear I will put on will be spray. The splatter was of course spray.
The gray you see is POR15 gray out of a quart can.
graemlins/thumbsup.gif

All camaro's rust there. They must have not used much primer or paint there from the factory. condensation may form under there also in some climates. Roger

Roger,

So what should I do about it?.. Click; Thanks for reply yours looks good but i'm not going thru all that. I just need to know what is the best quick fix. It would be different if I was stripping my car down. Thanks

Beautiful job, Click, and you have my admiration. Brushing those hard to reach places had to be near impossible!!!!! Now that you've got good experience at it, you can come on down to the Ozarks and do mine! tongue.gif

Ramjam... if you're not a contortionist like Click, you might be able to obtain adequate results by a method that uses spraying instead of intense brushing. You still need to kill the rust and cover it so it doesn't spread.
I would definately look into Zero Rust (http://www.zerorust.com) and Picklex 20. That's probably the easier route and yet maintaining effectiveness. I've used Zero Rust on several things and I just love it. It is also recommended by Len Stuart and the boys over at the autobodystore.com (http://autobodystore.com/). Lots of good reading over there, too!
Either way you go, it's going to take SOME work to do the job right, if you plan to do it yourself. Or, easier yet, drive it over to the local body shop and ask for a quote on prep, prime and paint. If nothing else, it'll make ya feel better about doing it yourself. ;)

I believe the Eastwood company has a paint/rust converter called Corolless. It is supposed to work very well at neutralizing rust and keeping it from getting worse for a bit. Supposedly not as permanent a solution as the POR-15 though... less prep work involved.

In your dreams Kwik :D Luckily I have long arms but my wife had to give me a backrub every night with some sports creme cuz my lower back cant take all that bending like I used too. Most of the time I had one leg up on a fender, belly on the latch and reaching as far as I could with the brush. If you take your time its worth the effort I think.
Guess it wasnt that bad afterall, she actually felt bad for me.
graemlins/thumbsup.gif

If you are dealing with surface rust, Oxisolv from Eastwood works well. Here is a product description from their website.

Oxisolv Rust Remover Spray Bottle 20 oz

Item No. - 16026
This specially formulated Rust Remover is a powerful, rust-fighting liquid created to meet the needs of auto restorers. It reaches even inaccessable areas, quickly dissolving iron oxide completly and leaving a zinc phosphate coating. Rust Remover can be sprayed, brushed, or used as a parts dip. It is non-toxic, non-flammable and reusable. This is not a primer. Treated surfaces should be wiped with PRE Painting Prep (10041 Z) or thinner before priming and painting.

http://eastwoodcompany.com/

[ 05-24-2003, 08:48 AM: Message edited by: Mike67RS ]