This is one of the problems when you remove a convertible top and are not able to install the new one until 9 months later. graemlins/clonk.gif The new top came with a strip of material about 5 inches wide and 4 feet long that I'm told goes under the front header. That make sense because you need something to cover the staples. However, I don't recall how it should look and the Fisher body manual does nto seem to have any detail on this. :rolleyes: Would someone mind opening their top and taking a picture of the underside of the front header?

Thanks,
Peter
graemlins/thumbsup.gif

There is a plastic/rubber molding that the material is sewn to. After it is swen it is then stappled to the front. I'll see if I can get a picture and send it.

Here's mine! Looks like some tube sewn inside the material.

http://www.fototime.com/C5EEC376FA3BAAD/standard.jpg

Kevin

let me know if you need anymore pics. i just finished my top.

angel

FINALLY graemlins/thumbsup.gif graemlins/waving.gif

Kevin - Thanks for the great picture. :D It seems that this piece of material is folded over in the front. My guess is that the back part of it, under the rubber weatherstripping, is glued on to the below stapled portion of the top with weatherstripping adhesive.

Rick and Angel - please post your pictures as well. It seems that you can never get enough pictures. It's true that a picture is worth a thousand words, and boy are the words in the Fisher body manual confusing! graemlins/angry.gif

Thanks again,
Peter graemlins/thumbsup.gif

The mystery is starting to come together. Rick sent some great pictures. As shown in Kevin's picture above, at the very front of the header bow on the underside is a folded over piece of material. That is included in the convertible top kits as a flat piece of material. However, it was clear from Rick's pictures that it is folded over something. That something is not included in the convertible top kits, is not part of a weatherstripping kit, and is not the top header lacing. The only place I found it is in the D&R Classic catalogue, page 90, middle column. They call it a header bow windlace. Sure wish they included it in the kit.

Thanks for all your help. Now I know where I'm headed.
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Peter

Peter, the header bow windlace is like the door windlace, not the piece you want. It fits on the inside edge of the header to cover the inside welded edge.

Kevin

Kevin,

The part I believe you are describing is listed as the "top header lacing". I already have that part. The "header bow windlace" is decribed differently. If you don't have a D&R catalogue I can get their exact description later. I agree that using similar terms to describe two different parts is very confusing. :confused: I'm sure you can appreciate my dilemma!

Peter

peter, i dont think you will find it in any catalog. what i did was take that strip of material to an upholstry shop and told them to sew one together. if i remember correctly, the origianl ones were made up of either rope or cardboard. i think the shop put in rubber. they sewed it for $5.00. they knew the correct measurements. oh, once you get it put together, what i did to make it look neater was fold the side edges(of the conv. top) over this piece. once i get time to get some pics, i will post it. good luck

angel

Likes been said, take it to an upholstery shop,
most use a plastic windlace tube and sew it in.
it hides the gap where the top sets on the header.

If I knew how to post a pic I would. Mine is all new. hth,

Troy-curt,

If this dosn`t work i`ll send a email. web pageshared pictures (http://convtopjpg)
well that didn`t work.
check your email.

peter,

go here:

http://community.webshots.com/user/angelglozano

i took pics of both my 68 with wht top and my 69 with black top. i just finished the 69. putting on the front piece was pertty easy. you just have to get it in the right place. too far back and there is too much "crush" and it wont look right. too far forward and you might not get a good seal and your latches will be too loose. if you need more pics, let me konw.

angel

Thanks for the great pictures. Worked on the top a bunch this weekend. Still struggling with adjusting the top material, and possibly the back window, on the rear tack strip. I'm trying to get both smooth. It's not easy to get those bolts in when you head is ducked under the compartment cover! :eek: When I removed the spacer sticks the rear bow moved slightly rearward, thereby introducing slack into the rear window. And I thought I was done with the rear window. graemlins/angry.gif
This job is a tough one!.

Peter

peter, i know the feeling. i just finished mine. i think it was a PITA. if you have any questions, just let me know.

angel

Angel,

Yes I do have a question. I think that on the driver's side the entire frame is sitting too high. The reason I suspect this is because on the passenger side I have enough material at the back of the top to attach it to the rear tack strip, but on the driver's side the material barely reaches the tack strip. It aligns at the rear bow and the side window flaps. I'll do some measurements of the height of the frame from the rear floorboards, driver's side versus passenger's side, and compare. Do you know whether the mounting positions of the top frame are adjustable?

Peter

The Fisher Body manual lists extensive adjustments to the top mechanism starting at page 13-49. It's not clear to me from the Trouble Shooting Chart what I should do to solve my problem. I'll try tilting the male hinge assembly rearward and then hope that the rear window tracks allow some adjustments to the alignment of the quarter windows.

coach420,

Here are some pics I took when my buddy and I did his 69, hope they help.

http://www.skullmobile.com/convtop.htm

peter,

wow, what a dilema. im having a hard time picturing the rear flaps not being able to reach the rear tack strips. how are you attaching the top? did you start by temporarily(sp) stapling the rear flaps to the tack strip? if i recall, this is where you should start and work your way forward. that way you can strecth out the front. did you get the problem solved regardig the front welt of the top? anyway, if you still need help, ask away as i only completed my top about 5 weeks ago.

angel

Angel,

If I start by stapling the rear quarters of the top to the tack strip then the alignment of the top at the rear bow and the side flaps won't work. The top is presently centered left to right and aligns along the rear bow where those little slits are cut in the material. It also wraps properly near the rear quarter windows. There was a rotten and torn top on the car that I removed and I think it had more material. I really doubt it but do you think the new top may have been made wrong? I do have sufficient material for the rear window to reach from the tack strip to the rear bow. I used spacer sticks and the rear bow is about 14 3/8 inches from the center bow. The only other thing I can think of is that the entire assembly has to be moved lower or back. Then I wonder if I will have enough adjustability in the header bow to move it sufficiently forward, and enough material to span that expanded distance!
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Peter

Angel,

I took a few weeks off from this project for vacation and to avoid the high humidity here in New Jersey.

I ran the metal rod of the "front bow" (not the header bow) through the loop of material attached to the underside of the top. I then have a lot of loose material between that position and the rear bow. If I was to attach the top where it has the slits to the rear bow I would have this slack. To eliminate the slack, I would have to move the rear bow further back. That means that the space between the rear bow and the next further forward bow (or "middle bow") would be greater than the spec of 13 1/4 inches or the suggested 14 1/2 inches. When you attached your top to the rear bow was the slack between the front bow and the rear bow (passing over the middle bow) naturally eliminated completely simply by tacking the top to the rear bow? Did you have to re-position the rear bow to remove the slack or were the dimensions perfect?

I may be able to attach the rear flaps to the rear tacking strip, and then re-position the rear bow to align with the slits in the top where it attaches to the rear bow. Should I be concerned that I will have enough material to cover the header bow? My thoughts are that I should be okay because the distance from the "front" bow to the header bow is fixed by the loop of material that attached to the front bow.

I appreciate your help on this.

Peter