I have to prime the carb to get it to start [Archive] - Team Camaro Tech

: I have to prime the carb to get it to start


TOMU
May 30th, 06, 12:38 PM
I hope someone can help me. I have a 67 camaro that I just bought, and it has a new Edelbrock 600 carb. The guy put it on 3 years ago, but never ran the motor. When I got the car home I primed the carb, and it started right up. I let it run for a few minutes, and then I cut it off, and it started right back up again without having to prime it. After about 30 minutes I tried to start it, and it would not start, so I primed it again, and it started. WHAT is the deal?? I even put a new fuel pump on it, and it still does the same thing.

THANKS for any help you can give me.

SixtyAte
May 30th, 06, 02:12 PM
Check the fuel line from the gas tank that goes over the rear. It is common for them to crack, allowing it to suck air but not leak fuel. Another thing to check is if the fuel pump is holding pressure. After the above, you should be able to figure its a carb problem.
Kev

ept000
May 30th, 06, 03:38 PM
This is typical for the Edelbrock carb. There have been lots of posts trying to cure the same problem. I tried every trick in the book and finally fixed it. I love my new Holley carb!

Nantooch
May 31st, 06, 04:58 AM
This is typical for the Edelbrock carb. There have been lots of posts trying to cure the same problem. I tried every trick in the book and finally fixed it. I love my new Holley carb!

Ditto that. Thought it was my gas cap siphoning it back, pulled the cap and still same thing happened. Changed out the carb, always starts up now.

edd Gordon
May 31st, 06, 07:49 AM
I used probably every brand of Carb thru the years and had good and bad experiences with all of the them. Before you Drive yourself crazy follow the fuel system from the Tank to the Carb if there are No Crimped or Crushed or open fuel line and the fuel pump holds pressure and the filter is clean check the Carb if by moving Throttle and there is No squirt coming from Nozzles then Check the fuel level. Also one other thing to check is the Fuel sending unit sock Some people just blow Compressed air thru the fuel line to dislodge it off the sender Others take out the tank and replace it. That Carb is very easy to rebuild if it is the problem and most of the problems I have found with them is dirt in the bottom of them.

Everett#2390
May 31st, 06, 08:40 AM
Lift up the carb from the intake, install a 1/4 inch thick wood carb spacer, reinstall the carb.

Carb is getting heat soaked and the fuel is being evaporated.

go2fast
May 31st, 06, 08:46 AM
In general I've found the Edlebrock and Carter carbs to be much more reliable. Expecially for cars that sit a lot. Holleys run great when they run and are very tunable, but there are too many gaskets and that power valve problem (I know, they can be cured). The point is, I'd find the problem and fix it rather than throw another carb at it and risk a whole different set of problems.

TOMU
Jun 4th, 06, 10:04 AM
THANKS guys for all info. I will try to check them out this week.

CorkyE
Jun 4th, 06, 10:36 AM
Tomu - had this problem with a brand new Eddy (marine type). The fuel bowl was cracked at the bottom, allowing fuel to drain out into the mainfold/engine.

Keith Tedford
Jun 4th, 06, 12:05 PM
A very basic problem is too much heat in the intake manifold. For summer driving the intake doesn't need the cross over heat. We have a 455 Pontiac that has burned the paint off of the cross over part of the intake. Blocking the crossover off helps. GM has heat deflectors to keep heat away from the carb as well. The gas is not getting syphonned back down the fuel line, contrary to what people think.

JimM
Jun 4th, 06, 12:16 PM
I run an edel 1406. The only way the fuel bowls could go dry is if someone drilled a hole in the bottom of the carb. Mine held fuel sitting in a drawer for 8 months while my car was tore apart. Car always starts with 1 pump when it's cold, just turn the key when it's not.