Give me your opinions on these please!! I should be getting them tonight. I run about 7.50's in the 1/8th with 1.60 60fts bunny hopping off the starting line. Will these help me??? How do you like yours if you have them??

I don't have them I use a four link. They are a bolt on version of the Cal-Trac. Surpassingly the original '67 Camaro used a similar bar as standard equipment but only on the passenger side to control wheel hop. '68 up went to staggered shocks as a cheaper fix.


Larger Dave

I had a friend running them on his 67 and they worked great! he was able to get his 60' down to a 1.42 with little tuning

Thanks for the replies guys keep em coming...

Does anyone have a before and after 60 ft comparison?? Thanks!

I don't have them on my 1st gen but had them on my 2nd gen and they work well.My 60's dropped a tenth and were very consistant. It was a BB car and would carry the wheels about 4" off the ground for 10' running 10.7's.

Actually the caltracs are bolt on too, the difference is the "bumper" in between the link bar, and they only have one hole in the front for adjustment, the caltracs have two. There are some small differences but otherwise a copy of the caltracs, I personally like the caltracs better, because of adjustabilty and no bumper, I just didn't see the need for it. I bought caltracs.
But, I can tell you the caltracs work sweet, and the slide a links should work well too, I have heard good results. As far as increase in 60' times, depends on how bad of a traction problem you had before, could be a tenth or two, or much more. They should solve any hopping issues you have.

Check this thread - especially page 3
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=69607&highlight=cal-tracs

and then check this out
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=58411&highlight=cal-tracs

I believe the cost is comperable for the CalTracs. I would tend to go with them.
Also consider adding the split mono springs from Calvert.

They are working well for me.

Ron

I put them on my 600 hp big block 68 last year. The 60' went from 1.58-1.50 but the biggest improvement was on the street you can accually feel the difference. With slapper bars it would just light up the tires to about 35 mph now if your over 10 it hooks and lays you back in the seat. I keep about 2 turns preload in at all times.

I got them put on the car last night, feels pretty good on the street just have an adjustment question, it says to make sure you can turn the bushing with all 4 tries on the ground, I did this, now am I suppose to set the preload??? thanks!

On the street I run a 1/4 in. gap for a smoother ride. On the track I run 1-1/2 turns of preload on the passenger side and 1 turn on the drivers side.

I set them with me in the car.
1. get in car and have someone adjust them til you take all the play out of the bars.
2. get out of car and tighten them about 1 1/2-2 turns tighter then tighten jam nuts

I noticed on mine that how much gas is in the tank makes a difference also. I adjust them with about a 1/2 tank of gas. usually 1/4 to 1/2 inch gap for street. When left them tight for track use it torque steered pretty bad on country roads when I was driving agressively.

I noticed on mine that how much gas is in the tank makes a difference also. I adjust them with about a 1/2 tank of gas. usually 1/4 to 1/2 inch gap for street. When left them tight for track use it torque steered pretty bad on country roads when I was driving agressively.

Wow, what happens if you eat a quarter pounder in between rounds?

Wow, what happens if you eat a quarter pounder in between rounds?

All the blood rushes to your stomach trying to help digest the grease and you then cut the worst light of the night......

:-)

BTW....I love 1/4 pounders...and pounders....

Ok went to the track today and the car didnt impress me at all, I dont know if I have them adjusted to tight or what. I will say it definatley took out the bunny hopping but it still spun about 5-10 ft out. 1st pass went out with recommended preload, and it hooked then spun, brought it in and put a little more preload to it, let go of the button then it blew the tires off of it, what am I doing wrong?? Its like its not transfering the weight, It has new leaf springs in the back all new CE adjustables all around. the only thing that hasnt been changed suspension wise is the front springs, will this help? I dont understand it.

I'm using the moroso trick front springs and they made a huge difference on weight transfer hell i can lift the car 3-4 inches by hand with those things. If i remember right i'm using the heavy SB springs with an aluminum headed BB so it sits a little lower. My adjustments are 2 turns passanger side 1 3/4 drivers i also have about 4-5* down pinion angle.

I have taken the snubber totally out of the a-arms, do you think I will need to put some back in after installing the springs?? I took them out hoping that it would give me some travel but the front end isnt coming up at all either way. Does it matter much if the front end of the car sits lower than the back of the car?? Are you using a transbrake??

Here's an example of stored energy:

lets say for example we're comparing two springs in our small block powered camaro which has a front end weight of 1800lbs

and lets say the car has 5" of extension travel.

we have two springs, one is 350lbs/in (spring 1) (roughly a typical small block spring) the other is a 215lbs/in (spring 2)(roughly that of some of the lighter drag springs)

This chart shows the pressure the spring is applying on the lower control arm as the car rises and the suspension extends:

0" will be ride height:

0" - 1800lbs (1) 1800lbs (2)
1" - 1450lbs (1) 1585lbs (2)
2" - 1100lbs (1) 1370lbs (2)
3" - 750lbs (1) 1155lbs (2)
4" - 400lbs (1) 940lbs (2)
5" - 50lbs (1) 725lbs (2)

So you are saying put the springs on right.

Has anyone tried these Slide a links without preload? Should you be able to move the urethane bushing with your hand if its set correctly??

No, you should not be able to move the bushing with pre load. Tighten them down by hand until there is no play in the bushing, then add your turns of preloads, the reason there is 1/2 turn less on the drivers side is to compensate for your weight. What tires are you using?

Mickey Thompson ET Slicks 28X9-15 13psi

Has anyone tried these Slide a links without preload? Should you be able to move the urethane bushing with your hand if its set correctly??

That's how I kept mine since I was to lazy to switch back and forth from street to track. I kept so that you could just barely turn the rubber bushing.

Add the trick springs.
And make sure the front bushings are loose and free. in other words, not stock.
How old are the slicks?
Ron

The slicks were new in May, plenty of tread left of them. I have the trick front springs to install, should I put the snubbers back on the a-arms??

The slicks were new in May, plenty of tread left of them. I have the trick front springs to install, should I put the snubbers back on the a-arms??

I have the snubbers in the upper arm, but they are cut to about 1/4" tall. So they just act as cushions.

I believe you want as much front end travel as possible.

Ron

I have heard people say put stiff sidewall tires on it? Does this really help

Eric,
Radial slicks (not to be confused with drag radials) are an excellent working tire.


here's a shot of mine working on a track seriously lacking prep! it was a special event day which typically they prep once, and let it desintigrate throughout the day.
This was after 4 classes of street tired cars ran down:

http://www.davemilcarek.com/061106/pages/6-11-1D%20106.html

Radial slicks most certainly have a stiffer sidewall by design. At Drag Fabricators suggestion, I went from a 10x29 bias Hosier to a 9x30 Radial Hoosier. I also followed all of his suggestions on the CalTracs, springs.....and well sort of on the shocks. Ditto for the trick front springs and freeing up the front bushings.
My car is quite a lot faster than yours, and I can tell you that it went from a tire spinning mess to a dead hooking animal. Blew me away.
I would suggest sending Brian a PM, and then do what he suggests.

I'm not sure about the trans brake. Have you tried foot braking the car? A trans brake probably takes a different setup with a small tire car....and my experiences with a trans brake was they are fun, but no faster than foot braking. This was on a mid 10 sec Chevelle with 14" slicks and ladder bars...a car that worked well despite the fact that I built it.
BTW....my little 9" tire Nova has since crushed the performance of the "race only trailered Chevelle". And I mean crushed.

Ron

What kind of tire pressure should I be running with a regular 28X9-15 MT ET Drag Slick?? I am running 13 psi is this too much, Dont forget I am using a transbrake.

I'm using a 28x13.5x15 MT et street at 10.5 psi drivers 10psi pass. i'm using 90/10 in front and a std. street shock in the rear. My car scaled at 3650 with 43.4% rear which is like 2060 in front and would pull the tires.

Has anyone had to run these slide-a-links with NO PRELOAD???? My back suspension is so tight with them preloaded is has no give at all, When I applied preload to the bars it spun even worse at the track, just wondering what they would do without preload. It seems like without preload the rear end has give to it. The car has new AFCO rear mulit leafs and CE adjustables, with the slid a links. Tell me what you think it will do with little or no preload. Thanks!!!

I have no idea about no preload. Are you adjusting these with or without you in the car. I usually have someone do the adjustments with me in the car. Also mine is pretty tight on the rearend with the preload.

Like I said earlier with my 2nd gen at 3600lbs. 29X9 M/T slick Slide A Links just snugged equal on both sides, usually 12psi and never less then 11psi no traction issues. I know of a couple guys who use to run them with the street setup (1/4" gap if I remember or whatever they say in the instrutions) because they thought it shocked the tires harder. I think you just need to play with them and I think the Moroso springs will help as well.

The only thing I am concerned with is that the weight still isnt gonna transfer, the rear is so stiff I even put the light weight leafs on it and it still is super solid, I am afraid its gonna spin before it gets a chance to transfer any weight. I installed the springs last night and the front end is totally different now it is really springy, now if I can get the back to work with the front I'll be ok I just think its to tight. How tight should it be???