My 68 Vert needs exhaust. Anyone install this kit without big modifications?

lots have, including me, or was it a 17139? it was the 69 style with full tailpipes. I could not get the system high enough to get the floor brace back on, so it's bewen off for 5 years. Some here have said they got it high enough, don't see how, the H-pipe would hit the driveshaft.

Other than that detail it's a great system

Jim.
I posted a different question and led to this thats why I posted this new one. On the other post I asked if I remove the Xbrace and install frame connectors would that be ok or even better? He said "I wouldn't... X brace provides structure from side to side where sub frame connectors provide structure from front to rear" I don't understand?? I would think the brace ould help with body flex just as connectors do. If that is so I would think one solid frame would do a better job than a flat piece of metal in the middle of the car. Correct me If I'm wrong!

I was going to reply to your other post, but decided not to as I've never run SFC's. Some have told me I'd be very surprised if I did. I think keeping the x brace is a good idea, but again, mine is under the workbrench.

Worth noting is the flowmaster stainless 69 tailpipes, which are totally to die for, are available separately for $100. Any decent muffler shop can bend 2 1/2" pipe to fit above the x-brace (without an H pipe) and there are other alternatives such as shimming or aftermarket or homemade braces.

I might try the shimming idea. I just don't want to have to shim it like an inch and a half, if you know what I mean. 1/2 or even a inch I woild do. If you were to put the brace on how much would YOU have to shim it? Do you have any current pics without the brace?

I was unable to get my exhaust system anywhere near high enough to even think about putting the brace back on. I need an inch in the back and 2" in front. Many here have done better than I did, and posted pics to prove it. It's not easy wrestling a 12 foot long exhaust system, with 11 slipjoints in it, under a car on jackstands by yourself. Some helpers would help, a lift would be better.

Someday, I will toss everything but the tailpipes, use dynomax super turbos instead of the flow 40's, and have a real muffler shop bend up a set of 2 1/2" exhaust pipes that fit (without a crossover) and put the brace back on.

I'm in the same boat..
I haven't bought them yet, but plan too.

From my research, it sounds like many things can determine if the x-brace can be replaced, shimmed, must be replaced, or removed.

1) Headers - Everyone has different headers, that may or maynot hang in just the perfect place.
2) Transmisison - The cross member, tailshft or length of transmissions affect the placement of the driveshaft, which affects the placement of the H-pipe or x-pipe.

I have frame connectors on my '68 convertible, and it does stiffen the chassis from front to back. My 3 cross-braces are brand new, so along with the frame conectors, it has stiffened my floor side-to-side also.

I'd still like to use my x-brace, and I won't know how it'll fit, until the parts arrive.

Sorry, I'm sure this wasn't what you wanted to hear..

I have hedman long tubes. Turbo 350 tranny, stock everything else. It would be great to find someone with this combo. I'm also getting leary about how loud it will be.

I just got a quote for a mandrel bent 2 1/2 inch system with a H-pipe and flowmasters to fit under the cross brace with no mods to it. This guy does very nice work. Everyone in my area with classic cars go to him. His price was $750 OUCH!! Should I try to mod my X-brace and get some frame connectors? For that price I can install the Flowmaster kit and connectors with some $$$ left over.

Anyone have any pictures?

Scroll down a bit for my solution - works great.

http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=80907&highlight=brace

Scroll down a bit for my solution - works great.

http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=80907&highlight=brace

Nice , but I don't have a welder......