what should the temperature read on a 383 it has 500 hp and aluminum heads

It's really going to depend on the cooling system connected to it. Typically 180 is the magic number everyone strives for. It's on the cool end of the operating temp scale, anywhere from 170 - 210 or so would not damage the engine. I think 220 - 230 is at the point you make your cooling system top priority in life.

i have the factory radiator with to 12'' electric fans. what is the best way to go?

Controlling temp is an investigative venture, first, you say that you have two 12'' electric fans, are they pushers or suckers, (pushers are more efficient), what happened to the factory clutch fan and shroud, its real hard to beat the factory system for directing air flow on these cars, next is the radiator large enough? (Is this a hd cooling system radiator, you will need one with that HP number) What is the distributor curve(this may sound strange however the advance in the distributor will have a factor in temp). What is the air fuel ratio is it too lean or rich? the 180'f coolant temp that was mention only will be if the ambient temp is down and the cooling system is up to the needs of the engine. What water pump are you using? If when you drive this vehicle, if it overheats at idle its a circulation problem,(not enough coolant flow or air flow over the radiator core). If it overheats down the road, its an airflow through the radiator problem. I would venture a estimate that this will run in the 200'f water temp range. Also where are you taking the temp from? The thermostat housing, or the head? Both of these will be the hottest temps especially at the head. I hope this gives you some direction to seek out operating temps.

Not to start anything, you might want to re-think the statement that pushers are better. I've always heard that pullers are the most efficient.

Controlling temp is an investigative venture, first, you say that you have two 12'' electric fans, are they pushers or suckers, (pushers are more efficient), what happened to the factory clutch fan and shroud, its real hard to beat the factory system for directing air flow on these cars, next is the radiator large enough? (Is this a hd cooling system radiator, you will need one with that HP number) What is the distributor curve(this may sound strange however the advance in the distributor will have a factor in temp). What is the air fuel ratio is it too lean or rich? the 180'f coolant temp that was mention only will be if the ambient temp is down and the cooling system is up to the needs of the engine. What water pump are you using? If when you drive this vehicle, if it overheats at idle its a circulation problem,(not enough coolant flow or air flow over the radiator core). If it overheats down the road, its an airflow through the radiator problem. I would venture a estimate that this will run in the 200'f water temp range. Also where are you taking the temp from? The thermostat housing, or the head? Both of these will be the hottest temps especially at the head. I hope this gives you some direction to seek out operating temps.

The thought on a pusher vs a puller is the pusher sits in front of the core creating a block for the free flow through core. The puller is mounted on the engine side of the core so the air it pulls makes it through the core before it runs into the fan structure.

Not to start anything, you might want to re-think the statement that pushers are better. I've always heard that pullers are the most efficient.

I would tend to be on that side of the fence pushers are about 10% less effictive and do block air when not in use in front of the rad .

If your looking for the whip set up check this link


https://secure.wf-api.com/www.chevellecooling.com/46.html?psid=aMZiIDm.pcKk6nEX5M8d&sm=8856

Don

fixed the temp. promblem reversed the fans to pullers temp. is holding to 180 to 190 .now i have to more .starter is makeing shinging noise and carb is makeing some poping noise but not all the time .now this is a brand new motor dynoed from top to bottom.carb. to starter.

On the "pusher vs. puller" debate. Yes, pullers are better by about 10%. This is due to eddy currents that set up in front of the radiator by the fan pushing air thru and trapped between the fan and front of the radiator surface. These eddy currents are not effective at getting the air thru the radiator and therefore decrease the efficiency.

In so far as the fan "blocking" air is really a misnomer. The air gets impeded but moved to one side or the other to flow thru the system eventually. If the fan is comprised of enough surface area to impede the flow such that some of the air gets kicked completely out of the flowing path...then there is a loss of "total airflow" and greatly reduced efficiency. Usually for highway speeds pushers will not appreciably affect the cooling per se. And...if you think about it. Pullers can also have the same "impeding affect" behind the radiator and set up a high pressure area just adjacent to the air exiting and have much the same affect. This too is minimal....whereas this model is used at 200 mph NASCAR "cup" cars all the time with no effect.

My two sense.