Well I did it the hard way but it turned out great ! ! I carefully cut the old one out and matched and butwelded the new one in instead of overlapping it. A little more grinding and it's gonna look like the original panel ! ! I will try to post some pics soon.

Chris

69 RS under construction !!!

Are you talking about the entire metal dash? I would like to see some pics. I may have to do this on a 67. No rust involved, but some tweaker didn't know how to get the ignition lock out so they twisted & bent the dash where it went to get it out. IDIOTS! I'm not sure I'll be able to save it yet. I haven't tried, but it doesn't look good.
This car had stupid people disease for too long. LOL http://www.camaros.net/forum/biggrin.gif

------------------
Steve
67 396 race car project
67 SS 396,4-sp mothballed for resto
67 RS 327,4-sp
72 RS 350/350, under current resto
69 4X4 suburban 350,4-sp
73 3/4 ton 454/400
Stevo Camaro's Toy (http://www.geocities.com/stevocamaro)
Our Muscle Cars (http://community.webshots.com/user/steve_lynell)

I'd love to see pics also. I'm shopping for a dash panel for my '69 right now. I've got the old one ready to come out and the upper cowl ready for POR-15.

The radio and ignition hole in my 67 had been modified with an ax or something so I replaced the whole front of the dash. I used a spot weld cutter from East wood (where it joins under the pad) and a die grinder to remove it. The only problem I had reinstalling a used dash was that I managed to get the steering column bolt holes a little off (toward the firewall) and the column almost wouldn’t fit. I’d recommend bolting the steering column and glove box door in place when you go to tack the new dash in.

------------------
Geezer

[This message has been edited by Geezer (edited 05-16-2002).]

some pics soon please, and a question, where did you get the panel from, a donor car? but u said, new! is there a place that actually sells them?

------------------
68' 350eng/350trans
88' BMW 735i

did you just replace the dash cap, or the actual face that has the glove box and radio section?

Sounds like some good advice Geezer.

It's listed as the dash panel. It's the peice that welds in on top of the firewall/cowl area. It does not actually
go down to the area where the glove box or instument panel goes. I got my panel from yearone. I believe It ran about $ 69.00. Alot of people weld them in over the original stuff, I decided to carefully measure and trim then but weld it in, then grind down flat. I've got the pics in the digital camera I've never posted pics on the net before so I'll try to figure it out.
Any advice on posting pics??

Chris

[This message has been edited by cbrooks (edited 05-17-2002).]

[This message has been edited by cbrooks (edited 05-17-2002).]

Chris,

Any pics online yet?
I just checked Year One's web site and that reproduction dash panel lists for $120. Did you get a deal or something??



------------------
Joe
WCA Member
1969 Wallet Crusher
- HwyStar@Rochester.rr.com
- HwyStar@CarJunky.com
My neverending project! (http://home.rochester.rr.com/hwystar)

NPD has them for $79.95. I had gotten mine from Yearone about 4 years ago so it was a lot less I guess. I've got the pics in the digital camera, how do I go about getting them posted ??? Also I've just about got the trunk fitted to BUT WELD in and grind and smooth so as to look factory !! Talk about some work, but it'll be worth the extra effort!!

Striving for perfection,
Chris

Chris,

I wondered why it was so cheap! I was thinking about going through Ground Up for obvious reasons but if NPD is cheaper, I'm there. Going to order one this week. Maybe it'll get here before I pick up the welder.

If you want to post pics, or links to pics here, you'll need to have them already accessable on a personal web site or one of the picture sites like http://community.webshots.com. Sign up and put your digital pics up, then post the link(s) to them in a post here. If you get hung up or need help, email me - jtrabold@adt.com.



------------------
Joe
WCA Member
1969 Wallet Crusher
- HwyStar@Rochester.rr.com
- HwyStar@CarJunky.com
My neverending project! (http://home.rochester.rr.com/hwystar)

Thanks HwyStrJoe. I'll see If I can get them posted in the next couple of days.

Good luck
Chris

I replaced my dash in my 67, just cut all the spot welds, then plug weld the new one in fit like a glove, from r*ck's, make sure the windsheild fits nice before welding!
here are some pics http://67camaro.topcities.com/DASH.HTM

------------------
http://http://67camaro.topcities.com/ttt.htm (http://67camaro.topcities.com/ttt.htm)

Looks good Jcdubs
Ordered one from NPD yesterday. If I'm lucky it'll be here tomorrow.
You're the second or third person to mention fitting the windshield while fitting the new panel but I don't even have a windshield yet. The underlying structure isn't bent or anything so I'm going to have to weld and pray.



------------------
Joe
WCA Member
1969 Wallet Crusher
- HwyStar@Rochester.rr.com
- HwyStar@CarJunky.com
My neverending project! (http://home.rochester.rr.com/hwystar)

HwyStrJoe pay special attn at the corners there is a little dip were the new panel and the area by the sail panel. Dont use the lower area to match, you'll see what I'm talking about when you set the new panel on and visualize the window there !! That's where it's important to line it up!!

I'll try to remember to post those pics tonight and show you what I am talking about!! It's really fairly straight forward!!

Chris

Cool...
The original is still sort of in the car so I'm going to use it as a guide. I only need to make the cut to the interior dash side now to pull it all the way out.

The way I did mine was to compare the original with the new panel. Then I trimmed the new panel to get the part that is made to overlap the original cut off. When I was happy with the cut I clamped it in place and took a scribe and marked the original panel to cut so I could but weld them together. This peice is covered by the dashpad, so it may not be necasary to do, but I want it to look original and clean!! Of course noone will ever see it but I know it will be Excellent!!
When making your scribe marks only scribe it once so you dont confuse your lines. Use an angle grinder with a 3-4 inch thin cutting wheel to make your cuts. Easy does it!! Its best to under cut and sand to the line. Clamp em in place and tackweld. Always let the puddle cool and move your tacks around so not to warp the metal. When it's all tacked in you can lay small beads again moving around until they all run together. On the cowl side I drilled 3/8" holes and welded them together. It is better to weld the cowlside first then the dash side. Be surer to strike the lower metal first and watch them flow together. Grind, sand, prime and paint.
Pics later,
Good luck,
Chris


[This message has been edited by cbrooks (edited 06-20-2002).]

[This message has been edited by cbrooks (edited 06-20-2002).]

[This message has been edited by cbrooks (edited 06-20-2002).]

Chris,

I sent you an email twice. Is your email address correct?

Dave

Hey Dave I thought it was. I will double check. My wife decided on pebblebrooks@aol.com http://www.camaros.net/forum/rolleyes.gif

Try again and I'll check when I get home !!

Chris