maybe someone can help me out. I have a 69 camaro RS SS small block. I converted from an automatic to a muncie M20.

Linkage all new
Bellhousing - Lakewood scattershield (used)
Flywheel 168 tooth (used) but resurfaced
Clutch- Perfection (i know its a cheap one)
Throwout Bearing (new)
Bearing retainer on transmission (new)
Transmission Muncie M20 wide ratio (early) 2.56 first gear

Ok here is the problem. after about 20 minutes of driving the clutch gets really hard to release, feels like its binding on release. It is also hard when disengaging. The first 20 minutes are a blast, but after that its a real PITA to drive. When its hot it also has a real bad chatter on take off .I completed the swap a couple of years ago, car has been sitting since then. I really want the clutch action to be smooth and flawless. The clutch grabs great, no slippage at all. I can chirp the tires in all 4 gears.

What i dont want to do is Replace the Flywheel, Clutch, Clutch fork etc.... and still have the same problem. I would rather save some money and go for a 5 or 6 speed with hydraulic slave, But if i can fix the problem i would be more than happy with the M20. The Transmission shifts nice and smooth and seems to be in pretty good shape.

Any help will be greatly appreciated

My first guess is that after sitting a while , the disc is swollen? I had lots of customers have this problem as we lived on a coastal area,, South Padre Island, Tx. I would suspect that rust has also formed on the clutch roller area inside the cover. I would also suspect that the throw out bearing or retainer sleeve could have dried up also. Clutch chatter is usually from uneven plate or flywheel contact . I would not suspect them being warped unless they got hot and put up wet? But the problem is there , you will have to deal with R&R. Easy as it is,,, I would pull it all and investigate. If you want to use better but not so expensive clutch set up,,,Centerforce II would do while the dual friction is best but more expensive. Flywheels ground flat should do the trick . I still have a stock large diameter that I removed and replaced with a billet , but just for safety.
One other thing that comes to mind. Are you using the correct t/o bearing? You did not mention the style of clutch p/p you had. You did not mention what range of pedal height you clutch engages in. I would say if its high, the disc is too thin. That would cause chatter also.

The throwout bearing im using is the one that came in the clutch kit.
im using an 11" Diaphragm style clutch. Engagement point seems pretty normal about 4 inches off the floor (thats a rough estimate) and my pedal freeplay is correct. Clutch fork is not hitting the firewall, and no external binding is evident. Everything is fine when its cold, chatter free and smooth.
Pulling the transmission is no problem, The bellhousing is a different story. My car has factory A/C , so the passenger side header is not exactly that easy to remove. I know with the automatic i had to remove the header to pull the transmission. Do you know if i have to remove the header on the passenger side to remove the Lakewood bellhousing??? I havent had the bellhousing off since i originally put it in. I hate to fight taking out the bellhousing if have to pull the passenger side header anyways.

Ive been on JEGS and Summit Racing, i already priced out everything
its going to cost abot $600- $700 to replace these parts
FLYWHEEL (Centerforce)
CLUTCH (Centerforce Dual Friction) DF735552
CLUTCH FORK( Lakewood)
THROWOUT BEARING (Centerforce)

I figure if im gonna R&R the clutch, im gonna replace everything. I dont want to pull the transmission again!!!

I have been driving the car off and on for a few days, while its fun to drive it still needs a ton of work. I want to get it mechanically sound first, then im going to move on to the body work and interior work

There's a couple things it could be. Being cheap, I'd be more likely to find and fix the problem rather than using a money shotgun.

It could be the used scattershield is way out of position. Lakewoods aren't known for their accuracy anyway and maybe that's why the previous owner got rid of it. If you pull the whole thing apart, I'd use a dial indicator to check the bellhousing runout.

It's possible that the trans hung from the clutch on initial install, and bent the disk or possibly the pressure plate fingers.

It's possible that the clutch linkage is wrong, even if it's not hitting the firewall. There are posts on this, and I don't remember the part#, but it seems the only fork that will work right is the original, which is still available from GM. You may also need an adjustable ball stud to get it right.

I'd think if you loosen the header, wire the top to the hood hinge, and the bottom to the sub as far over as you can get it, you'll be able to get the bell off. I'd try it with the header tight just because it ain't easy getting to the bolts with the a/c in the way.

I am very glad I got the two piece bellhousing. But back to the problem,, I will go with what Jim says,, look for a problem, there should be one somewhere. Do check the fork. Make sure the fork bearing retainer tab is not worn down or broken, it should straddle the t/o bearing neck. Don't just throw money at it,, your selection of parts is good. Do use another t/o bearing,,, The CTF II will require the very short one. BCA 1705 CC or you can get the N1716 that CTF lists, that way you wont be chasing parts . Change pilot bearings while you are at it.

Id like to thank everyone for prompt replies..
what bellhousing would you suggest?? a factory aluminum??
The reason why i used the scattershield is that it was given to me.
I really dont want to throw money at it that i dont need to.

As far as loosening the header....... thats the hardest part. Physically removing the header is no problem. the bolt closests to the firewall is the one that takes forever.

two piece bellhousing?????? sounds like a good idea to me

The scattershield is fine, if it's aligned. If you search here for "bellhousing runout" or dial in bellhousing" you'll find a procedure for making sure the center of the trans hole in the bell is aligned with the center of the crank. Muncies aren't terribly fussy here, but still, if it was off more than .015" or so it could cause some serious clutch problems.

Another thing to consider is the grease in the Z Bar tube. I ran into the same thing years ago and found that lack of enough grease made it bind up. A simple no cost fix!

Kev

Before you pull out the clutch, check the engine tune and also the motor mounts.

Engine tune can have a huge effect on clutch engagement. A classic example is a defective idle circuit or accelerator pump causing a lean condition as you are engaging the clutch. If the engine stumbles clutch chatter is amplified.

The carburetors choke can mask an off idle lean stumble when the engine is cold.

I know its not a motor mount issue or transmission mount issue. It is definetly not a tune or carb problem. I also dont think is the Zbar lacking lubricant. Like i said its fine for the first 20mins or so of driving, so that pretty much rules out all of the above mentioned. I do appreciate all the responses !! I know overlooking the basics can happen to anyone. I will probably pull the transmission and bellhousing out when the weather cools down. I will keep everyone updated, soon as i find out what the problem is. In the meantime ill drive it until then...

I also dont think is the Zbar lacking lubricant. Like i said its fine for the first 20mins or so of driving, so that pretty much rules out all of the above mentioned.

Take the time and pump grease into the Z bar. It will cost you nothing and if it solves the problem , you are all set. If not, then you can rule that out as the cause of the binding.

Kev

You mentioned your clutch engagement point (4" off the floor), but that's not the important part of clutch linkage adjustment; what's important is how much pedal free play you have from up against the rubber bumper to when you feel resistance from the throwout bearing when you push on the pedal. If you don't have pedal free play (preferably 1" or so), the TO bearing will be in constant contact with the clutch fingers, will fry, and then seize. A weak return spring will do the same thing.
:beers:

Well I found my old post, and since then my problem is fixed
I replaced the Scattershield with a Repro "621" Bellhousing , a new Billet steel flywheel and a Centerforce Dual Friction clutch. So far so good, I only have about 40 miles on it.