After way too many sessions of working on my Camaro, only to have to stop a couple hours early to clean up and get it pushed over to the side of the garage so the other half's car could be parked in there as well, I finally got started on building the car it's own garage. Unfortunately I don't have the space to build a huge shop, but it will be plenty enough for us for now. It will be 20x24 when completed and 480 sq. ft.

The problem on going bigger, is that in my city, if I go over 500sq. ft., the garage (detached accessory building by code), has to have the same exterior as the house, which is brick. I'm just not doing brick! On the same note, if it's under 500 sq. ft., I'm limited to 10 1/2' walls, and a 15' total height; and if it's over 500, I can do 12' walls and 25' total height, but I'd then have to do brick.... So I'm just going to build it with the 10.5' walls and short trusses (5:12 pitch). After I frame it, I'll order the trusses pre-built, I found a company that can have them built and delivered for about $625.

This will be the first building I've ever done from the ground up (or should I say below ground up?), so hopefully it will turn out great heh. Of course if anyone has any building tips I'd appreciate them greatly.

If any one wants me to, or has any interest, I'll keep posting more progress pictures in this thread as it's built. If not, I'll post them all when it's done.

Here's the start: http://www.67rs-ss.net/garage/gallery.asp
The slab is "just" about ready to pour. I have to get the prefoundation inspection done on Thurs. before the pour which will be on Saturday.

Edit: Ignore the ugly fence. I was going to replace it last year, but decided to wait until the garage was built so I wouldn't be tearing up a brand new fence in the process. As soon as the garage is complete the entire fence is getting replaced.

Chris, have the truss guys build up the inside height. You can have 10' sidewalls but a vault can be built into the center of the shop that gives you room for a ceiling fan, lights etc. that are up away from swinging parts or a lift, so you can get more cars in there too. I bet you can easily get 15' in center of the shop. :)

The total height of the building has to be no greater than 15'. I'm not sure what you mean by building up the inside height though. I am planning on putting in a 4 post lift' that's why I'm planning on going all the way up to the 10.5' walls that I'm allowed. 12' would be better but what can ya do?

Looking good.How thick is the slab going to be?My shop is only 20x20 but all I have in it is my car and tools.

6" slab, with 20" plus beams around the perimeter and crossing the middle. This slab would support 2 stories if it had to :D

Instead of a flat roof have a vaulted ceiling like they would do in a house.

Something like the sloping flat trusses shown in this web page?
http://www.cwc.ca/products/trusses/shapes.php
If that's what you mean Jim, then I understand why you said to do 10' walls, because the truss itself is partially vertical on the outside. Would the 6" be enough though? I'll have to call the truss guy. Good idea I think though.

Looks good. Before I got back into cars, I went through about 10 years of "I can't stop building" and built my house, restored the attached 200 year old log cabin, restored the garage, started a garage that became the guest house/party/recreation facility, and finally built "The Hanger" for the cars. Love working with wood.....good therapy.

Question....why do you have footings running through the floor across the middle? Perimeter footers are the norm here with a floating slab poured after the underslab utilities are installed.

SS

Question....why do you have footings running through the floor across the middle?
Just for more stability. I'm no engineer, but it seemed like a good idea at the time :). I've read all the codes, and no, I don't have to do that, but I wanted it to be as solid as possible.

this is what it would look like on the inside http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=71568&highlight=garage+lift

Dude, is that your fence falling down there in the background? Tell me it's your crappy neighbors, please!!!!! :D

LoL, that's the part of the fence that I took down leaning against the existing fence. The new section you see in the corner was a temporary patch I put in till the entire fence is replaced this fall. That corner blew down when the high winds blew through Dallas from the hurricanes.

this is what it would look like on the inside http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=71568&highlight=garage+lift
20x24 isn't really large enough to do a ceiling like that. I could do scissor trusses for a vaulted ceiling, but not one like is pictured there.

..but I wanted it to be as solid as possible.

If you pour that full of concrete and have a 6" floor, it will be solid enough to park a Caterpiller on !

SS

p.s.....good idea on the pitched ceiling. that would allow room for that 4 poster in the center with another car stashed above. (shhhh, don't tell the wife about that yet)

If you pour that full of concrete and have a 6" floor, it will be solid enough to park a Caterpiller on !

SS

p.s.....good idea on the pitched ceiling. that would allow room for that 4 poster in the center with another car stashed above. (shhhh, don't tell the wife about that yet)

True on the Caterpillar, but I didn't want there to be any doubt that it would hold a car on a lift, and um...Shhhhhhh, she doesn't know about the "another" car just yet... :D

you could actually be prone to cracks with the center section seperated like that, even though you get a deeper pour in the center you still have a barrier between the concrete and your slab due to you moisture barrier. i would at least use one of the cross sections for a french drain since you already have room for it. i just finished my garage, its 24x34 with a 14' ceilling, used fibermesh concrete which ive had in my other garage for 10 yrs now and am yet to have a crack in it. i was going to put a center drain in my garage but was certain it would crack plus the slope of the floor and the small center section i had to push everything thing to turned me to the french drain. i however placed mine right outside the door. good luck

Scissor lift will fit and give you a little more head room.http://www.cwc.ca/products/trusses/images/howe_scissors.gif
Also maybe I missed it but, do you have a copy of your footing plan that you can PM me or post. (There is a point to it I promise.)

Good project going there. Good suggestions here for cheating on height.

Certainly would be nice to have a floor drain.
If you're gonna have a post lift, whether two post or four post, it also would be a good time to lay in a plywood pattern for the bolts. It appears the crosswise 'support' would be thick enough for bolt support and leg support of the lift.

Water and electricity to the addition? Do it now before concrete comes.

Poor tomato plants, after the garage goes up, no more sun.

Looks like a good place to park my Bus!!!! :)
True on the Caterpillar, but I didn't want there to be any doubt that it would hold a car on a lift, and um...Shhhhhhh, she doesn't know about the "another" car just yet... :D

Very good points... definately should think about the drainage, electrical and water.
Good project going there. Good suggestions here for cheating on height.

Certainly would be nice to have a floor drain.
If you're gonna have a post lift, whether two post or four post, it also would be a good time to lay in a plywood pattern for the bolts. It appears the crosswise 'support' would be thick enough for bolt support and leg support of the lift.

Water and electricity to the addition? Do it now before concrete comes.

Poor tomato plants, after the garage goes up, no more sun.

as for the tomato plants, it is survival of the fittest!!!

I am just starting a 26x24 garage. Adding a small one story addition (so Dad can move in with us) and an attached 2 car garage beside the living space. I should be getting the permit today. Garage will have a flat ceiling with 6/12 roof. We got a structural engineer to spec out a steel beam for the garage. I want to use the attic area in the garage for storage (small as it may be). The cost works out to be about the same as trusses. With the beam, I will have an open area above the ceiling. Just something for you to consider, if your looking for extra space to store car parts, for virtually the same cost as trusses.

Scissors truss is the most common for a vaulted ceiling and would give some nice clearance, otherwise a Fink would be standard. I don't see the need for the footings in the center of the floor. The floor won't really be transferring any load to them, so you'll only get additional support for anything sitting directly on top of them. Use the extra $$ and concrete to beef up the entire slab. IMHO

Every wooden fence I have seen in Texas falls apart quickly...must be the environment. It will be nice when its finished!

True on the Caterpillar, but I didn't want there to be any doubt that it would hold a car on a lift, and um...Shhhhhhh, she doesn't know about the "another" car just yet... :D


Bah! He forgets I look in here from time to time...

OOPS!! lol Glad my wife has no interest in surfing this site! She doesn't even know my user name (I hope)

Bah! He forgets I look in here from time to time...
Doh!! lol :D

you could actually be prone to cracks with the center section seperated like that, even though you get a deeper pour in the center you still have a barrier between the concrete and your slab due to you moisture barrier. i would at least use one of the cross sections for a french drain since you already have room for it. i just finished my garage, its 24x34 with a 14' ceilling, used fibermesh concrete which ive had in my other garage for 10 yrs now and am yet to have a crack in it. i was going to put a center drain in my garage but was certain it would crack plus the slope of the floor and the small center section i had to push everything thing to turned me to the french drain. i however placed mine right outside the door. good luck
Thanks for the comments and ideas. There will be no barrier between the footings and the slab. It is being poured all at once. The 6 mil plastic sheeting you see for the bapor barrier is what the concrete will be poured on, it has cushion sand underneath it. I'm also not doing any drain in the floor. no plumbing or electrical is being installed in the actual slab. The electrical will be run up the side to an electrical panel.
Scissor lift will fit and give you a little more head room.http://www.cwc.ca/products/trusses/images/howe_scissors.gif
Also maybe I missed it but, do you have a copy of your footing plan that you can PM me or post. (There is a point to it I promise.)
Hey Harley, I don't have a copy of the footing plan. By city code, the footings have to be 20" deep around the perimeter of the slab. All I started with was a pamphlet from the city with the dimensions (depth/width) of footings for the slab and other code requirements for the building. The inspector will be out Wed. morning, so I guess I'll find out then if we did it right.
Certainly would be nice to have a floor drain.
If you're gonna have a post lift, whether two post or four post, it also would be a good time to lay in a plywood pattern for the bolts. It appears the crosswise 'support' would be thick enough for bolt support and leg support of the lift. Water and electricity to the addition? Do it now before concrete comes. Poor tomato plants, after the garage goes up, no more sun.
When I get around to installing a lift, I'm going to just use lag bolts. I don't think a pattern for where the lift will go is needed, as I don't even know what type of lift I'm going to purchase yet. No plumbing or electrical will be running through the slab. Yeah, poor tomato plants indeed. I'm definately going to have to figure out a solution for that, the other half isn't quite happy about it either.
Looks like a good place to park my Bus!!!! :)
Not if we want to be able to close the door!!
Scissors truss is the most common for a vaulted ceiling and would give some nice clearance, otherwise a Fink would be standard. I don't see the need for the footings in the center of the floor. The floor won't really be transferring any load to them, so you'll only get additional support for anything sitting directly on top of them. Use the extra $$ and concrete to beef up the entire slab. IMHO
It's kinda late to redo the forms now :) The footings in the center probably aren't necessary as you said, but it's extra insurance and it's already done. Thanks for the information though!
Every wooden fence I have seen in Texas falls apart quickly...must be the environment. It will be nice when its finished!
That is so true. The high humidity and the constant weather changes to the extreme heat is horrible on wooden fences. Most wooden fences here get replaced every 5-10 years.

---------------------
Thank you everyone for your comments, opinions, and ideas. I really appreciate them, even if I didn't get to respond to them all!

Chris......if you think 4 post lift, then it is movable and does not need to be bolted in one place. much more flexability. you could even roll it outside when you needed the space inside.
I should get a commission from this place for all the links I post for them. Heck.....I should charge all my buddies when they come over to use mine.

https://www.gregsmithequipment.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=33&products_id=28

SS

Buzz, I saw that link you posted in another thread and saved it to my list. I'll be looking into that brand when I get around to that purchase. I did look at it and liked the casters on it, so it doesn't have to be bolted down. I haven't decided yet of course, I need to get the garage built before I think of accessorizing :D

We finished the forms today. The rebar is all supported by the chairs and the wooden forms for the side and rear walls are in place. We had to do a "wall" around the perimeter because the entire back yard slopes down towards the alley and the side closest to the house would be below ground level when making the slab level without having too much of a ramp to the driveway. As it is, the corner closest to the back fence will be too high to get a regular car into unless we set it back so far the garden would have been gone completely. So the wall will be 6" wide on the sides and back of the garage, with a few inch drop to the center floor of the garage; and about 6" from the grade to the top of the wall on the side closest to the house.

We should be good for inspection in the morning and a pour on Saturday if we get a green sticker :) I took some more pictures and put them here in the "foundation2" link. (http://www.67rs-ss.net/garage/gallery.asp) There is a couple pictures of the existing driveway as well so you can see where the entry to the new garage ties in. This is the back of the house where we have an alley. Again, please ignore the POS fence as it's coming down very soon :D I guess I should have tidy'd up the back yard and finished taking down the canopy I had up and hidden the old Camaro sheet metal in the corner before taking the pics, but oh well lol :) :beers:

Looks real good. :thumbsup: Part of the reason I was asking about the footing plan was if you went with a 2 or 4 post bolt down lift you could make sure the footings where under that. But seens how you don't know what lift your planning to use yet that wouldn't do any good. Buzz' idea of the movable 4 post lift is pretty good too.

Chris as far as the fence goes you may consider going to Home Depot and looking at there vinyl fencing. Yes it only comes in white, but maybe you could get 15-20yrs out of it. Just a thought.

Chris, you might look into having the ground sprayed by your termite inspector before the concrete goes in. Certainly couldn't hurt.

Builders do this alot here on new construction.

Thanks for the advice Everett. We don't have a huge problem with Termites here in our area of TX really; at least that I've ever noticed around any of my previous homes. I've never even seen a live termite. I'll consider calling the bug guys anyway to see how much they'd charge for it anyway. If it's cheap it couldn't hurt :) Thanks again.

Harley, we're going to go with the usual wooden fence, and try to stain and protect/seal it. We've some ideas in mind for how it should look, and it should be beautiful. One of the reasons most fences around here don't last very long, is because protectants/sealers usually aren't used. It should be really beautiful when it's complete.

I talked to the concrete guys that are doing the pour for the garage slab yesterday, and they're going to expand my patio slab in front of my back door as well for me, then it's time to pull down the sorry excuse for a porch awning thingie (real technical I know), and build up a nice one.

In your pics Chris, I think I saw the other end of Hiway Star Joe's backyard buried thingy he found, gosh that would be cool to find out what it is finally :) You are having to much fun there.

In your pics Chris, I think I saw the other end of Hiway Star Joe's backyard buried thingy he found, gosh that would be cool to find out what it is finally :) You are having to much fun there.
That would have been a funnier way to start this thread :)

Harley, we're going to go with the usual wooden fence, and try to stain and protect/seal it. We've some ideas in mind for how it should look, and it should be beautiful. One of the reasons most fences around here don't last very long, is because protectants/sealers usually aren't used. It should be really beautiful when it's complete.

I talked to the concrete guys that are doing the pour for the garage slab yesterday, and they're going to expand my patio slab in front of my back door as well for me, then it's time to pull down the sorry excuse for a porch awning thingie (real technical I know), and build up a nice one.:clonk:
So, how's the concrete look did it go in ok? Did they fix your back porch? /jk :p
If your actually going to seal it use a better quality product from Baer or such. Stay away from the cheep Thompson's or any CHEAP stuff. You save money on the short end, but you end up spending more and having to reseal it more often in the long run.

In your pics Chris, I think I saw the other end of Hiway Star Joe's backyard buried thingy he found, gosh that would be cool to find out what it is finally :) You are having to much fun there.

Chris I think now that the subject has been brought up you need to talk your neighbor into digging up there yard to see if that thingy does in fact head in the direction of Joe's back yard.;)

Hey guys, here's an update for those following along. They came out and poured the slab while I was in Carlisle on Saturday. Betty (GF) took some pictures on her cell phone of them doing the pour. Excuse the quality of those since I had the digital camera in PA she had to use her cell for them. Here's the guys out there pouring the slab:
http://www.67rs-ss.net/garage/gallery.asp?f=thepour
And here's some pictures I took today (Mon.) of the finished slab.
http://www.67rs-ss.net/garage/gallery.asp?f=slabfinished

You can see in the finished pictures, just how much of a grade my back yard has. The Camaro will pretty much only be able to pull into the right side of the garage with that much of an angle on the ramp leading into it; which is ok since I've got plenty of tools to fill up the left side of the garage :D

All that's left for concrete work is to finish the approach between the driveway and the new garage. That will be done at the same time my patio is expanded out a few feet next week. Then we have to frame the garage, build a new porch over the expanded patio, and build a new fence all the way around the back yard. I've certainly got my work cut out for me.

We didn't find any "thingies" that might run all the way out to Joe's backyard unfortunately :(

Now I need to draw up the plans for the actual build. I should go look around for some software for that purpose being a computer guy more than a builder :)

Thanks Harley, I'll look into Baer sealant line when I get that far. I appreciate all the advice everyone here has given me thus far, and I'm sure I'll need much more before it's over.

Going up to PA for the Camaro Nationals, sure did motivate me to get this garage finished so I can hurry and get my car finished. I really, really want to take my 67 up there next year!

Looks real good Chris! I guess those boys didn't get TOO distracted by the soccer game.
;)

Glad you and your father made it home OK. It was a real pleasure meeting you both.

How many truckloads of cement? Looks nice!

Just 2 loads from what I understand. I know it was a lot, but this slab could support 2-3 stories if it had to! I don't think I'll have to worry about a couple cars stacked vertically on it with the lift. I mean...if ever, for some unknown reason, I'd happen to need to store a second car in there (disclaimer added for girlfriends sake).

Thanks for the compliments!

Looking good:thumbsup:
By the way I was mistaken it's BEHR.
http://www.behr.com/behrx/act/view/products_detail?prodGroupId=53&catName=Wood+Waterproofers&catId=13

PS- Lets see some of those pictures from the weekend.

Id love to look at your pics of the progress but with dial up i think i could drive there from New York quicker. So i will just say congrats on the progress. Its much more motivating to work on them when you have the proper space to do it in. And one other note..i always love when other people tell you exactly what you can and cant do with YOUR land!!

Behr is the "house brand" at home depot, assuming their stuff is the same quality.

Just thought I'd give an update on the garage. I'm building and putting the walls up. I have 2 walls up now and I have to get the trusses ordered in the morning since it takes a week for them to be delivered. Here's some shots:
http://www.67rs-ss.net/garage/gallery.asp?f=walls
The pics of the 2nd wall up are dark since it was late by the time I got it stood up today. I'll take some better ones tomorrow.

Looking good. :thumbsup: I especially like the little "TLC" shade work tent thing you've got going on there.;)
http://www.67rs-ss.net/garage/walls/walls7.jpg

It's probably too late now but couldn't you dig a semi-foundation to get extra height? From the outside it would have 10.5ft walls but the inside could be as deep as you wanted to go to in the ground.... Like maybe have the garage door in the back which just so happens to go 3ft deeper than the other 3 walls.

I duno, just an idea about how to get around the ordinance.

Looking good!
Your TLC tent, I see you have the supervisor's chair there, but no cooler?
Nice to see the Ford tool to keep it square.......

My hat's off to you for the garage......and to JimM for the pool.

Well we have 3 walls up, with only the 4th wall that will hold the large overhead door to frame up. But now I'm having second thoughts about the design of that wall. If I go with a steel roll-up commercial door to conserve overhead space, those things weigh about 500 lbs. I need to find a structural engineer to tell me how to build this wall to support that kind of weight. The design I have for the 16ft opening uses 2-2x4 jack studs, nailed to a full length king stud on each side of the door, and a header across the opening of 2-2x10s nailed and LN'd together with a 1/2" sheet of plywood sitting on the jack studs. I'm just not sure(and I doubt) that can support the 500lbs of a commercial roll up door....

Here's the design of the front wall: (note the header over the door is 6" tall, but I changed it to 10".
http://www.67rs-ss.net/garage/design/front.jpg
http://www.67rs-ss.net/garage/design/full.jpg

Here's the latest pics:
http://www.67rs-ss.net/garage/gallery.asp?f=walls2

Can't you get a variance on the brick and build it a bit larger and taller? Perhaps you can put something else on it that is acceptable or some brick facing part way up on the street side of it.
David

Christopher
Looks good, excellent even. I just finished my 24x36 and had it final inspected last friday- I can understand your concerns. About the garage door header, talk to your truss engineer. Odds are he does headers too. I had a 16' header built ( not for rollup door) and it was only $150. More expensive than a couple of 2x12's & plywood, but the peace of mind is worth the expense.

Well we have 3 walls up, with only the 4th wall that will hold the large overhead door to frame up. But now I'm having second thoughts about the design of that wall. If I go with a steel roll-up commercial door to conserve overhead space, those things weigh about 500 lbs. I need to find a structural engineer to tell me how to build this wall to support that kind of weight. The design I have for the 16ft opening uses 2-2x4 jack studs, nailed to a full length king stud on each side of the door, and a header across the opening of 2-2x10s nailed and LN'd together with a 1/2" sheet of plywood sitting on the jack studs. I'm just not sure(and I doubt) that can support the 500lbs of a commercial roll up door....
Your right to be concerned that is a little light. It would be fine for 9'x8' door, but for a 16'x8' door either go with 2-2x12's and 1/2" solid plywood fill or better yet 3 1/2"x12" microlam. The 2x12's would be sufficient, but the microlam is more than enough.
Just for an FIY. http://www.howelumber.com/microlam.htm (http://www.howelumber.com/microlam.htm)
And as for the studs use 3 jack studs and 2 king studs. This is a little overkill as you could get away with 2 jack and 2 king studs, but I prefer to overbuild things a little. Thing seem to be coming along nicely by the way.:thumbsup:

Can't you get a variance on the brick and build it a bit larger and taller? Perhaps you can put something else on it that is acceptable or some brick facing part way up on the street side of it.
David
I asked serveral times at the building inspection office when I was down there getting permits and each time they said I had to keep it to code. They didn't say anything about me being able to get a varience. However, the house behind me has a detached garage that is larger than the 500ft that requires the brick (if your house also has brick), but his doesn't. I don't know if he built it before they changed code or what. Either way, it's a little late to change the width, length or height of the building now that the slab is done and I've already got 3 walls up. Thanks for the thoughts David!
Christopher
Looks good, excellent even. I just finished my 24x36 and had it final inspected last friday- I can understand your concerns. About the garage door header, talk to your truss engineer. Odds are he does headers too. I had a 16' header built ( not for rollup door) and it was only $150. More expensive than a couple of 2x12's & plywood, but the peace of mind is worth the expense.
Thanks Rick, that's a good idea about talking to the truss builder. I'll bet he would know. I'll see if I can go in late to work tomorrow and take my plans to him and work something out. I wasn't even planning on 2x12s, just 2x10s, and that was a step up from the 2x6s that the plans called for!
Your right to be concerned that is a little light. It would be fine for 9'x8' door, but for a 16'x8' door either go with 2-2x12's and 1/2" solid plywood fill or better yet 3 1/2"x12" microlam. The 2x12's would be sufficient, but the microlam is more than enough.
Just for an FIY. http://www.howelumber.com/microlam.htm (http://www.howelumber.com/microlam.htm)
And as for the studs use 3 jack studs and 2 king studs. This is a little overkill as you could get away with 2 jack and 2 king studs, but I prefer to overbuild things a little. Thing seem to be coming along nicely by the way.:thumbsup:
Thanks Harley, you've been keeping a good eye on this thread for me and made a lot of good comments and suggestions and I really appreciate it. I did read in several different sites that larger headers should be made out of LVL lumber(microlam), and I'm thinking I should probably find some other use for the 18'-2x10s I bought (for what I have no idea :D ). I haven't 100% decided to go with the roll-up door, and even if I don't, I still better go ahead and build the wall to support the 500+ pounds it weighs in case I decide to change it later. As Rick suggested, I'll go talk to the lumber/truss guy and see what his engineers have to say! Definately the extra king and jack studs can't hurt.

Thanks again all!!

A couple more suggestions:
Height inside for lift - you could always have a 4-post lift on casters and leave a "hole," finished or not, for the height in the middle of the floor.
Or get a lift to lift from the side, as designed like a fork lift.

On the roll-up door, you could build a pair of legs from the axle to the floor and attach the take-up reel to the header for stabilty purposes rather than hang the whole door upon the header.

Behr paint from Home Depot is the ONLY paint my wife will use, FWIW.

It is looking good, I'm getting jealous.

A couple more suggestions:
Height inside for lift - you could always have a 4-post lift on casters and leave a "hole," finished or not, for the height in the middle of the floor.
Or get a lift to lift from the side, as designed like a fork lift.

On the roll-up door, you could build a pair of legs from the axle to the floor and attach the take-up reel to the header for stabilty purposes rather than hang the whole door upon the header.

Behr paint from Home Depot is the ONLY paint my wife will use, FWIW.

It is looking good, I'm getting jealous.
I'm not sure what you mean by the hole after reading that line 4 times....maybe I'm just not awake yet this morning...wait, do you mean a hole in the ceiling for additional height? Can't do that because the rafters would still be in the way.
Additional supports fabricated to the axle of the roll up door to the ground is a very very good idea, I can do that.

Chris, Harley is right on there. When I built, I didnt want any future sag on my 16' x 8' overhead door, so my builder used 2 of those 3.5" micro lam header boards and we layed in one layer of heating type sheetmetal between the lams, then screwed the heck out of it with lag bolts and huge nails at angles back and forth all across both sides of the lams. The sheetmetal between any boards, once nailed in, will add super rigidity to the boards. Old builder trick I guess but it makes sense. Doubling those lams, and a stiffer header support on the ends of it like Harley said, will give you all the strength you need there.

I think you are both spot on with the LVL. I had read that before like I said, but I wasn't considering the weight of the roll up commecial door when I decided onthe design at the time. I'm not only concerned about the direct weight on that wall, but also the force it might apply to the connecting walls. 500lbs is a lot considering the header is also supporting the gable end of the roof. I don't want to guess at it though, I really should have an engineer toss his 2 cents in. I respect Harley's recommendations a lot, as he's been a building contractor for many years.

you mean a hole in the ceiling for additional height? Can't do that because the rafters would still be in the way.
Yes, a rectanglar hole in the ceiling to allow the 'cab' of the car for clearance.

Trusses can be triangulated to support the roof. If trusses are commerically built, then its too late, the shape is what it is.

At any rate, go forth young man......

...but I wasn't considering the weight of the roll up commercial door when I decided on the design at the time. I'm not only concerned about the direct weight on that wall, but also the force it might apply to the connecting walls. 500lbs is a lot considering the header is also supporting the gable end of the roof...
Chris the gable end has no real weight other than the siding. That truss only supports the last 2' of roof and any soffit overhang. Also the wall sections on either side of your door opening on the endwall is pretty short which will help brace the opening from side loads. I would be more concerned if the door was on the eave side in the middle of the wall and had to support the roof load as well. Here is a spec sheet on the LVL's. Sorry nothing specific on endwall applications as like I said this is really overkill in your situation.
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c87/HarleyD67/Smilies/LVLDoorHeaderRoof.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c87/HarleyD67/Smilies/LVLSpecs.jpg
Based off the bottom chart A 3 1/2"x9" LVL beam has bearing load of 27600 lbs. :eek: And still only requires 2 jack studs per side to meet this. Or you could also use 2- 2x12LVL's nailed together if that's cheaper.
Also keep in mind that the door is actually supported by the track system that bolts to the wall and is bracketed from the ceiling. 2- 2x12's with 1/2" ply sandwiched is sufficient , but again I not one to shy from overbuilding something. (within reason);) Unless you think that 500# door on a track system bolted to the wall will overload the LVl header even when in motion.
PS- In case you are still slow tonight (j/k) The LVL is OVERKILL for your application. Now if you where using it for an 18' header on a lower level of a 2 story building on the eave side with a truss span of greater than 28' Then we may have to consider a 5 1/2"x12" beam.

Sorry for the long post sometimes I just babble on and on, and on...and on...and on...and on.............:boring:

Hey man, long posts are great! :D

I wasted about 3+ hours today searching site after site reading building codes, links to information in the International Building Code and amendments to it in my city; as well as just about every site you can imagine that had anything to do with large door headers, LVL (and the many other types) of material used for headers. Most of them all talk about and give formulas for Dead Load, and Live Load when it pertains to the headers on the eave side of the buildings. Our snow load around here I think I read is 5psf, so not really an issue ;) I don't think that really matters anyway for a gable sided opening. I'm not sure how to calculate the DL and LL on the gable side of the building. I"m still going to see if the truss engineer has the means to do a calculation for me, but if not, I think I'll just go with a 3 1/2 x 10" or (2)1-3/4 x 12". I'm assuming roughly a 20 psf LL and a 30 psf DL (due to the 500# door, which is probalby overkill). Also I have to keep in mind, that different types of LVL have varying PSI ratings, which is important as well....

Or I could say screw it all, put up the 2-2x10s with the plywood meat and a regular lightweight aluminum garage door and call it magic :D

Nah.....lol

I think I might have melted a circuit or two in my head reading through all of those building codes and engineering formulas and calculations. Man, that stuff is worse than reading a Unix manual!!!

...Or I could say screw it all, put up the 2-2x10s with the plywood meat and a regular lightweight aluminum garage door and call it magic :D...
Like I said you can use 2-2x12's with plywood center without worries.

Like I said you can use 2-2x12's with plywood center without worries.
Even with a 500# door hanging on it?

On a gable end yes. If it where on the eve I would say make sure you go with the LVL's. Even northern Ill. we would sometimes only run 1 LVL on the eve if the roof span was les than 10' because of the second story overhanging the garage. Like I said if you can get 1 3/4"x12" LVL's for a reasonable price go for it. If you can't then use the 2-2x12's with plywood core. I looked back to my load charts from the 90's and according to that data the 2x12 header is good for a span of up to 20' on a single story eave with a roof span of 28'. And like I said the gable end doesn't have the load that the eave has to carry. (except hip roof) :beers:

Well back out to finish rejetting the carb and swapping fuel bowl for a trip to the track tomorrow.:thumbsup:

You should have just made the 'ol lady park outside. It would have been a lot easier. I just bought a new house, and my entire garage is dedicated to my camaro.

You should have just made the 'ol lady park outside. It would have been a lot easier. I just bought a new house, and my entire garage is dedicated to my camaro.
It was her house before I met her so that's kinda not really an option :D

I went down to the truss company/lumber yard today and ordered the trusses. It's going to be the 9th before they are delivered. The engineer also said I would be wasting money if I bought 2x12s to use as the garage door header and didn't use the 2x10s I have now. He did a lot of calculations and said it would be perfectly fine. I'm still leaning towards the 2x12s based on my research and more importantly on Harley's recommendation. I just have to figure out what I'm going to use these 18ft 2x10s for now :)

You can't return them? Most lumber yards accept returns. Or did you get 'em off eBay.:clonk:

No, they were special ordered from Lowes. BTW, the program I used to come up with the design that stated 2x6s would be fine, when I moved the garage door over to the eave side of the garage, it did come up with a custom LVL beam. The engineer at the truss/lumber company said there was very little load on the gable end (I think he said 40psf) and you don't have to worry about the LL/DL loads and deflection like(as much as) you do on the eave side of the building. He calculated the loads and added in the 250#s for the door at each end with 2 jack studs and said 2x10s would be plenty strong enough... I'd really rather go with the 2x12s just to have some overkill, but I'm thinking about just going ahead with the 2x10s I already have, unless you really recommend against it Harley.

Hey! Did I see a f..d parked in the driveway:eek:
Russ

Hey! Did I see a f..d parked in the driveway:eek:
Russ
Yes you did!! Been a good truck too.

Yeah I know there hard to beat,of course you know I was kidding right:thumbsup: The garage looks great so far,good luck with everything Chris.
Russ

Yeah I know there hard to beat,of course you know I was kidding right:thumbsup: The garage looks great so far,good luck with everything Chris.
Russ
Thanks Russ :) Yeah, the truck's been a real trooper for all I've put it through. It's about to hit 150k miles soon. Of course it helps that my father works for a Ford dealership and I bought it really cheap, and I get all repairs for virtually nothing (free labor and dealer cost on parts). Thanks again ;)

The 2x10's are fine. Like I said I prefer to overbuild things anyway. I mean when I do headers on 8' walls with a 2x10 I have to block it down with a 2x4 on it's side anyway so why not save the time and use a 2x12 for almost the same cost.
How do you plan to trim out the inside of the door opening? Or are you planning to just mount the track right to the wall framing?

So Chris how's it going? Any progress? Did you get the trusses yet? Inquiring minds want to know?:rolleyes: j/k

Honestly how's the project coming?

Hi guys. I FINALLY got back to working on the garage. Man things have been hectic the last 2-3 weeks. My father came over today and we got the remaining trusses up. I can now finally put the roof and siding on. Hopefully in the next month I can have it done....just in time for it to cool off. This thing is taking incredibly long to build. Thanks for all the advice you guys. I really appreciate it. Here's a few pics of it with the trusses up.
http://www.67rs-ss.net/garage/gallery.asp?f=trusses

Been a while since I updated this thread. Not sure if anyone is still interested. It's been slow going getting this thing built by myself, but I finally got some help:


http://www.67rs-ss.net/garage/roof/roof1.jpg

All I have left to do now is all the trim, seal all the seams, paint, install the large garage door and run the electrical. I think my body has had enough for the summer :) Here's some recent pictures:
http://www.67rs-ss.net/garage/gallery.asp?f=roof
http://www.67rs-ss.net/garage/gallery.asp?f=siding2

Then, I can finally replace that darn leaning fence and porch!!

Looking Good!:thumbsup:
Although with help like that I'm surprised your not finished with the interior as well.;)

Yeah, he can't put up with helping me for more than about 15 minutes once the novelty of the tools or being on the roof wears off :) What do you expect at 7 years old. Here's a good pic for those that don't want to click on the links in the previous post:
http://www.67rs-ss.net/garage/siding2/siding7.jpg

That fence is SO coming down and getting replaced very soon!!

Looking good! Just make sure NOT to invite SSDanny69 over, I'm certain he could huff.........and puff.........and BLOW that thing down!!!!!!

who has the skinny legs? :)

who has the skinny legs? :)

That would be my helper, I'm the short guy :D

Looking good Chris! Wish I could have built that big. Have you done anything (sealing) with the garage floor yet? Do you plan to? If so what are you using? My floor will be poured within a couple weeks, just curious, some say seal it within a few days, other say wait.

I was going to try the Behr floor sealant from Home Depot based on a few recommendations by other members (I think in this thread). I don't know if it's best to do it quickly after it's poured or to wait either, but for me, it's too late now to do it quickly, the slab has been there for many months :) Thanks for the compliments!

Looking very good, as a matter of fact, its in use?

Floor covering - might think about using U-Coat-It with the woman from the advertisement supervising - look at any car magazine ad.

It's not really in use per say....I just pulled my truck into it after doing some major cleaning up from all the building, that I just couldn't wait to pull something into it :)

that slab might need to breathe out the moisture for awhile before you seal it. Ask the cement contractor but my dude told me to wait 6 months, so the moisture was pretty much out of the cement before topping it off. :)

hmmmmm.........my concrete guy told me to get it down right away so the moisture would be trapped longer. Mine is holding up very well after 18 months. little oil drips (did I just say that?) wipe up and leave nothing behind.

sean

Maybe since my slab was fresh poured and had wirsbo heat in it, my contractor wanted the heat to dissapate the moisture out for awhile first. It seemed to work ok, its held up great. Im sure time of year and outside vs inside humidity and temps all affect when a sealant should be applied. Do what the concrete man says there. :)

In the case of the curing compound/sealant. It needs to be applied as soon as the concrete is finished. The purpose is that concrete doesn't dry as most people think. it cures from within. One of the purposes of the curing compound/sealant is to help retain the moisture in the concrete and allow it to cure not dry. Concrete curing time is 28 days, It can be driven on sooner than that but doesn't reach it's strenght potintial for a good 28 days. The curing compound/sealant also helps to keep from staining (from oil drips/ don't know where they come from) and will usually wipe right up. If not applied as soon as the finishing is done it will not serve any purpose for curing but will still be useful for sealing and stain prevention. I hope this helps.

Well it's been months since my slab was poured so it's a little late for me in that respect. I'll get to it in a month or so since it now doesn't matter :)

Just wanted to sort of finalize this thread. The Garage exterior is 99.5% done. Once I got past the final inspection I had to move on to other projects, like getting my back yard re-enclosed with a new fence; not to mention other honey-doo projects that have been pretty time consuming. I also take at least a month off in the summer from projects to spend the summer with my son that comes to visit each summer for the month or so.

This first shot shows the side facing the house, and you can see between the ends, the door, and window, where Betty has planted 3 climbing rose bushes. I still have to put up some kind of nice trellis (sp) for them.

http://www.67rs-ss.com/garage/done/garage27.jpg

I said 99.5% done, because I still have to finish the sofits and eaves, put some outside sconce lighting on each side of the large garage door. Here's the rest of the pics, and a few of the new fence I built. Those of you that made fun of my falling down fence will be happy to see how my new one turned out. I still have a little staining to do on the inside, and to finish the slats on one corner of the house where we extended the fence out a little.

http://www.67rs-ss.com/garage/done/garage28.jpg
http://www.67rs-ss.com/garage/done/garage29.jpg
http://www.67rs-ss.com/garage/done/garage31.jpg
http://www.67rs-ss.com/garage/done/garage32.jpg
http://www.67rs-ss.com/garage/done/garage33.jpg
http://www.67rs-ss.com/garage/done/garage34.jpg
http://www.67rs-ss.com/garage/done/garage35.jpg
http://www.67rs-ss.com/garage/done/garage36.jpg

The interior still needs to be completely finished out, including insulation, my AC unit, sheetrock, a lot more lights, and lots of shelving and bench area. With that in mind, I'll wait to show any pics of the interior :)

That came out real nice, Chris. I have my garage and addition just about done and gotta post some pics of the finished product to close out my thread that I started about a year ago, too. (Dad move in to his new digs about 3 weeks ago.)

Love that fence. I still have to put my work benches in, etc. Would like to know what your plans are to finish the interior. (what kind of work benches, lights etc.)

Holy Moly!! Certainly have been busy.....looking good!

I am extremely green with envy ! Very nice job .

check out www.garagejournal.com if you haven't already.

Mine's being constructed as we speak,will be 26 deep x 24 wide with two 9' roll-up doors and 1 side door and two windows.It is a pre-fabbed metal building.Just waiting on the final approval from the city...these pictures are deceiving,footings will run the perimeter of the 6" slab:

Here's where it's going,on my old dead lawn:
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p3/topfueljohn/DSC03451.jpg

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p3/topfueljohn/DSC03452.jpg

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p3/topfueljohn/DSC03720.jpg

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p3/topfueljohn/DSC03721.jpg

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p3/topfueljohn/DSC03736.jpg

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p3/topfueljohn/DSC03758.jpg

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p3/topfueljohn/DSC03757.jpg

Pavers have been installed all the way front the front of the house to within 3' of the slab...still waiting on the city now.:sad:

Nice garage, Chris.....but that damn fence is awesome! :D

Your place is really looking good, Chris...:thumbsup:

And that fence....what can I say.....I've never seen such a fancy fence before. It's fit for royalty.....:yes:

Makes the rest of the neighborhood look shabby........:D

In Texas it's; Keep up with the Wilcox's......:cool:

Thanks a ton guys. I'm really proud of the way the fence and garage turned out. It's the first time I've ever attempted anything like those.

Your compliments on the results mean a great deal. Thanks again!

Thanks a ton guys. I'm really proud of the way the fence and garage turned out. It's the first time I've ever attempted anything like those.

Your compliments on the results mean a great deal. Thanks again!

Look awesome, glad that project is done! Alright then, enough of that BS..........start working on the friggin' Camaro! :D:D:D

Welcome to the new Tools and Shops forum.