Hey CruiseMaster, I am now removing the old floor and I have exposed the left torque box and it is in great shape. I went to your website with the pics of your resto and saw you removed the bad torque box and wanted to know if I need to separate the torque box from the rocker to install the floor? I am installing a full complete floor by the way.

Are you planning on using the old torque boxes? Or just install the floor complete? If you want to install the floor complete with the welded on torque boxes then you will have to break the old box loose. I believe there are a dozen spot welds connecting it to the frame rail. 6 or so attaching it to the rocker. The good thing is that the rails will not be disturbed, so the torque boxes will line up perfect when you drop the floor in. When I installed mine, I fitted everything and then welded it in. I had both frame rails out at the same time. It was a big job. I would highly suggest that when you get ready to fit the floor, that you install the front leaf spring mounts too. Then you will find out how far the floor will move from front to back. The floor has the c-clip nut cutouts, so the spring mounts will have to be fitted. By the way, the front portion of the rails will only allow the floor to be pushed so far to the back. It will stop coz of the flange from the rail will position it. I would still fit the spring mounts just to be safe, leave them bolted in while you are welding it. Be sure to torque the bolts with antisieze too. It really is easy if you fit everything. Good luck.

Scot

Cruisemaster, do think its easier to install the new floor as is with the new torqeboxex in place or to remove them from the new panel and leave the originals assuming they are good? My originals are good, and i'll be installing the floor in the future,just not sure if i should replace the boxes or not.

Cruise Master, Dumby me did not even notice that there was new torque boxes on the new floor. I am removing the floor from over the other box today and and I am sure it will be in good shape but I will remove the old ones and use the new ones. Thanks for the advice about the springs.

Shoddy, if I were you and was able to remove the floor with the torque boxes left in place and in great shape, I would use them and remove the ones from the floor. But, if this is your first time, I would use the boxes already on the floor. I say this because the boxes are the same guage metal. When I removed the rails from my rust free donor car, I compared the thickness of those boxes to the new floor, and they were exactly the same. When I ordered and recieved my new floor, I was really surprised to see how well it was put together and fit. I had no problems installing it at all. I forgot to add one more thing when installing it. When you remove the old floor, be really careful when splitting the firewall section at the rocker panel. If you do it right, there should be a 1/16" gap so you can slide in the floor in this area.

http://webpages.charter.net/k30ssrs/Assist%20pics/floor%20with%20arrow.JPG

Some other notes, if you want, use sheetmetal screws to hold the back area in place while you get ready to plug weld it. graemlins/hurray.gif I'm talking about the trunk pan and frame rails. I also added a couple of more plug welds to the torque boxes. I felt more comfortable with adding some there. My feeling was, since this area is prone to so much stress, the plug welds wouldn't hurt. You can grind them down smooth so no one would know.

Johnny, hehe, graemlins/clonk.gif I laugh coz I wasn't surprised that you didn't see the installed torque boxes. be carefule when removing the spot welds from the rails. I used a spot weld bit to cut them. Worked really well. I plug welded those areas after I got a really tight fit. You will have to hammer and weld when progressing. Just think of each weld individually and it will be so easy. Make sure you post progress pictures, so we can see how you are doing. As with anyone on this site, I am happy to provide any assistance or advice. Makes this hobby so much simpler and enjoyable.

Scot graemlins/beers.gif

Super pain in the arz to remove the first torque box but it is done and on to the next. here are some pics of the progress.

http://www.scullyevans@groups.msn.com/scullyevans/johnnyscamaropics1.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=125


http://www.scullyevans@groups.msn.com/scullyevans/johnnyscamaropics1.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=126

Looks pretty good so far. I have a question though. What is at the bottom of the frame rail? Is it a hole? By the way, your links don't work. If you can, the next time you post a message, click the add image, and then post the URL in the box that comes up. Just make sure the pic is small in size.

Scot

Johnny... what are you planning to do with the upper cowl area under the dash panel? Mine is also rusted like that and I am torn between ordering a new upper cowl and repairing the old one with patch panels.

If any of you fellas have a pair of left over torque boxes Id surely buy them from you.
graemlins/beers.gif

Cruise Master, I am putting pics on the posts and they seem to be working alright, Im not sure what went wrong (Did it the way you guys told me to do it). As far as the frame rails I think one of the holes is a funtional one and one or more is rust so I'll blast off the rust and treat the metal before putting the floors in at least that seems to be the best way to do it.

MJM, I will remove the old rusty cowl and replace with a new one, especially the lip for the windshield. That comes after the floor, I think I can remove the whole thing and replace it complete Also have to remove the fire wall because of bad rust. I will post on the site when I'm ready to do that part of the resto. graemlins/clonk.gif

I think I know what happened. I think you posted the URL directly inside the message. Rather than do that, select the button below the box when typing a message. This will bring up the window to insert the URL.

Cruies Master, Did you reuse your front leaf spring mounting brackets or did you install new ones? (Did you install B/4 putting in new floor?) Mine are real ruff and I think I will replace with new.

Look at them close, blast them if you have to, then decide what you want to do. If there is pitting, I would spring for new ones. I had a rust free pair from my donor car. I was lucky. I think they cost around 40 bucks each. Only you can make the call on what to do. But, you can use your old ones to bolt in place till new ones arrive or if you decide to replace them later. Did you remove them from the springs already?

Removed and in the blasting booth. I took a better look at them and realized that the real bad looking part was the top part that meets with the underside of the floor, so it they may not be that bad after all. I'll finish blasting and make the disicion then. The floor is almost gone and when it is I'll post the dirty pics for all to see. graemlins/clonk.gif

Cruise Master, When I finish the removal of the floor What do I do to protect the exposed metal on the rockers, the front edge of the trunk pan, etc? Some were along the line I heard of a product called "Weld thru"? I think its a paint or primer that you can weld right on top of.(Someone said that some new repo parts come painted with this stuff)or else it was one of those real vivid dreams I have on occation. Today I will be grinding off whats left of the floor and preparing to install the new!!! graemlins/beers.gif

Johny, you can use that weld thru primer, sure. Do a search in this forum to find out what is best. I didn't put anything on mine, coz I live in Nevada, where rust is not common. I had some repairs to do on the firewall to foot area. Even the 3 weeks that I let the car sit, no rust. But when I put it together, I used the weld thru primer. Then I seam sealed with 3M. My trunk pan and floor are now finished. I'm now working on the rear quarters, tail panel and wheel houses. I just got my rear axle back from blasting and painted it last night, wow, it looks awesome. I'm gonna take it to get built up tomorrow. Should be back under the car Saturday.