Who sells an autobody soldering (not for wires). I borrowed a friend soldering iron for autobody and it works great, but I can't find anyone who sells them. He bought it years ago and he can't find anyone who sells either. I need it to fill emblem hole, door handles or turn signal lights with out welding and making the modification permanent. Anyone know where I can order an electric sodering iron for autobody?

Eastwood doesn't sell it either.

[This message has been edited by Allen M (edited 03-10-2001).]

[This message has been edited by Allen M (edited 03-24-2001).]

try eastwood, i think its in their catalog or on their website. www.eastwoodco.com (http://www.eastwoodco.com)

Racer X,
Eastwood doesn't sell it either.

You can use an over the counter electric soldering iron if you get the correct heat range (amp draw should be about 10-12 on a 120 volt circuit). Use flux core solder and make sure the holes are cleaned out really good.
Radio Shack sells these irons and the solder.

Toby,

Have you done it before? Is it hot enough to heat the metal on a fender? I've used some irons on 2 guage wire and it's not hot enough to flow the solder, let alone a fender. The fender will dissipate heat more. I need someone who's done it before. I don't want to buy an soldering iron that will not work.

Try looking into www.thetoolwarehouse.net (http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net)
They are a pretty complete auto tool house with outstanding prices.

Born Lucky,

Toolwarehouse doesn't sell soldering irons.

Get ahold of MobileTools. He's a friend of the site and if he doesn't have what you want might know where to get it! His site is; www.mobiletools1.com (http://www.mobiletools1.com)

Just an observation, you seem a little put out by the replies you have gotten so far. It may not be intential on your part but is very obvious.



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...Dennis
'69 RS Convertible w/SS trim (http://www.camaroslimited.com/memberscars/den.htm)
'96 Z28SS #1679 of 2410 (http://www.camaroslimited.com/graphics/memcars/96ss.jpg)
"The Club" (http://camaroslimited.com)

Allen M,
Can you get the name or part # off of the tool that you borrowed from your friend?
I deal with 11 warhouses and one might be able to find it, who knows?
You can e-mail me if you can get the name and #.

Bob


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69 Coupe LeMans-Blue
Frame-Off Resto, ZZ-502/502 Crate, A/C, Griffin Rad., March Serpintine Sys., 2800 Stall with Hughes T-400, Currie 9" with 370 Gears.
www.mobiletools1.com (http://www.mobiletools1.com)

It doesn't say who makes it . The irons over 20years old.

I'll have the purchasing dept. make some calls tomorrow, and I'll call some friends in the auto bussiness to see if we can find one with a name and part #.
One of the guys in the shipping dept. has some body shop friends, I'll ask him in the morning also. Who knows?

502 Bob

------------------
69 Coupe LeMans-Blue
Frame-Off Resto, ZZ-502/502 Crate, A/C, Griffin Rad., March Serpintine Sys., 2800 Stall with Hughes T-400, Currie 9" with 370 Gears.
www.mobiletools1.com (http://www.mobiletools1.com)

Thanks Mobiletools!!! Let me know if you find one.

Allen,
Yes I have. Back in the days when we used pull tools and slap hammers to pull out dents.
The real trick is the donut shaped magnet you will need as a heat sink. Try to find one with about a 1" hole in the middleno more than 1/8" thick. It will allow the sheet metal to hold the heat and the soldering iron that I mentioned before will work.
Hold the tip of the soldering iron in the hole for about 10-15 seconds. Very, very slowly, pull the iron out of the hole as you apply solder. If you pull the iron out slow enough, the solder will fill the hole once the iron is totally removed.

I've heard back from some of the wharehouses and I'm getting the response I did not want to hear. I've talked to some of the older body guys and they used to used the old type of soldiering iron. The big heavy ones, people almost call them antiques. The guys used to heat them up in a fire and melt the soldier into the holes on the cars.
As far as an updated version, no news yet.
2 guys are supposed to return my phone calls tomorrow.

502 Bob



------------------
69 Coupe LeMans-Blue
Frame-Off Resto, ZZ-502/502 Crate, A/C, Griffin Rad., March Serpintine Sys., 2800 Stall with Hughes T-400, Currie 9" with 370 Gears.
www.mobiletools1.com (http://www.mobiletools1.com)

Try a jewlers torch from Eastwood.Just be careful not to warp the metal.The heat fence stuff they sell works good for that.

Thanks mobiletools, I'll wiat for your reply.


ochrisl. I'm trying to avoid any torches. The soldering iron method has less warpage.

How about a soldering gun instead of an soldering iron? Don't they get hotter than irons if you get the largest one you can find?

Just a thought.....

HwyStarJoe,

Soldering guns are a pain. I don't like the trigger when you have a lot of soldering. It's nice to have it hot all the time.

True, true.... I'm with ya on that one.


------------------
Joe
HwyStar@Rochester.rr.com
'97 Blazer
'69 former basket-case

I'm running into a dead end on this one Allen.
The guys I deal with don't have anything like this in stock.
I'll keep the paper posted on my locator
board incase anybody hears or comes across this item.
Sorry I couldn't be of more help.

Bob Fisher

------------------
69 Coupe LeMans-Blue
Frame-Off Resto, ZZ-502/502 Crate, A/C, Griffin Rad., March Serpintine Sys., 2800 Stall with Hughes T-400, Currie 9" with 370 Gears.
www.mobiletools1.com (http://www.mobiletools1.com)

You might want to check with the Cecil N. Muggy Co. Back in '97 they were at 23109 Los Codona Avenue, Torrance, CA 90505 (1-800-243-0800). I don't know if that's still their address, but they are on the Web:
http://www.muggyweld.com/

They advertised a product (Super Alloy 1) that could use a soldering iron for a heat source (they said a heat gun could even be used).

Anyway, they might be able to either recommend a manufacturer/supplier of the soldering irons you are interested in or get the information off of one that they might have lying around their shop.

If that fails they do have a Bulletin Board service they just started.

Good luck. Let me know what you find out.

[This message has been edited by cturner (edited 03-21-2001).]

I had ione of those things, I thought it was for huge electrical soldering jobs, the thing was massive (3/8'ths tip)
I wish I could remember who I gave it to, or where I left it, i've been looking, if I find it i will contact you.

Thanks 68ragtop!!!! let me know.

the iron is used by roofers --- that said -- why in the world would you use body solder -- it is now considered a inferior method of repair ---- those can easily be mig'd, use a chill plate -- and be done with it !

Well junkvette,

It has advantages. Say you want to remove the emblems on a camaro without actuall ruining an RS fender, you can solder the holes and if you ever want to go back, you can heat the holes and remove the solder. Try drilling the hole back after Mig welding it. Try shaving the sidemarker lights on an import. Stecks, which make autobody tools use to sell solder plugs varing in different sizes. The solder(50/50) is harder than leading (70/30).

i made one from a slug of brass and a piece of steel rod when i was in high scool. i used it to repair gas tanks, it worked good for what its worth.
hardware stores sell cheap attachments for propane torches that would probably work ok. the only iron ive been able to find on the internet was $285.00, if you want i can post that site for you.

i just stumbled across a beauty on ebay. its item #1126794878, currently 1 bid for $4.00. its a no reserve auction, good picture.

http://www.hakkousa.com/ try this it might be what your looking for?

forgot to put this in....go to the soldering link then the item is under stick irons looks fairly large.

bottledpower,

I'm looking for an electric soldering iron. The one on eBay isn't. You need to heat that one with a torch to build up the heat.