Still having problems bleeding rears. Bench bled the MC using the lines that go from the outlets back to the resevior and they bled perfectly. However, I noticed that the front outlet slowly leaked fluid out of it, and the rear outlet did not (that would exlain why I couldn't gravity bleed the rears). Could this be a problem?? I am going to replace the splitter/light switch and the prop valve and see if that helps since both were used; the rest of the system is brand new. The hold off valve on the frame appears to be OK.

Don't know if I asked this in another question,, the round valve to the rear has a plunger button. Did you press it to get fluid to rear? Mine is at m/c, not on frame.

Your talking about the prop valve I'm guessing. Mine is located to the left of the MC. The splitter/low pressure switch is located under the MC and the hold off valve is the brass block that attaches to the sub frame. I didn't check the button, I thought that you needed to do that if you were to pressure or vacuum bleed the front brakes.

The round valve with the button, by the master, is for the front brakes.

The rear port on the master not dripping while on the bench might mean it has a residual valve. That's fine.

I would try bleeding the rear port of the master while it is mounted on the car... right at the port (or at a bleeder if equipped).

If you get good fluid there, go to the line leading to the rear axle and bleed there.

If good fluid there, repeat after the rear frame valve. If good there, repeat at an axle line, where it comes from the hose splitter. Sometimes that rear hose collapses.
And sometimes you just get an air bubble in the master or line. This should take care of it.

I tried bleeding all the joints in the rear lines starting with the MC again. I had to bleed the MC again and I got fluid coming out of all the joints going backwards, and I even got fluid coming out of the rear wheel cylinders. The problem now is that the fluid only trickles out and the rear brakes don't move at all.

Now I have pretty good flow at the rear cylinders, but still no movement of the brake cylinders. I have been reading alot about the lenght of the booster rod. When I got the booster I couldn't install it because the rod was too long, so I had to cut it. I have about 5 inches from the booster to the center of the hole on the clevis pin.

Are you talking about the rod that comes out of the back of the booster? Remember, on power brakes it goes into the lower of the two holes on the brake pedal, Manual brake rod goes into the top hole.

I also used a booster with a pedal rod that was too long. Basically, I cut it and threaded it, and then with my hand pulled the pedal up against the rubber stop and adjusted the lentgth with the clevis pin attachment thing (for lack of a more technical term)

The rod sticking out of the front of the booster needs to match the hole in the back of your MC. I think there are basically two sizes - short and long, again, not too technical. If you have the short one in a MC designed for the long one, it'll never work. And if vice-versa, it'll be obvious when you go to bolt the MC to the booster.

That rod simply pulls out the front of the booster, if you need to swap it out.

I checked everything out and I have the correct rods and the booster rod is in the corect hole. I can't figure out why I have fluid coming out of the rear bleeders, but no action at the wheel cylinders.

Does fluid squirt out a good distance from the bleeders when the lines are pressurized?
If you have pressure in the lines, the cylinders should move unless they are seized.

It doesn't have pressure like the fronts, but no cylinder action. Both cylinders are brand new.

bad master cylinder?

Kurt, If I am coming down Sunday to power bleed the brakes, make sure you have plenty of fluid, we will use a bunch! :) I think you have an air pocket in the rear somewhere and normal bleeding is not getting it. If there is a leak, air might be coming in as fast as you bleed it out. That would account for fluid coming out, but no action on the cyls. The air pocket is compressing instead of working the cyls. Just a guess on my part. Once we power bleed them, we can check for leaks too.