I have been thinking about doing one of these for year's. Just wondering what ya'll thought of em. Anyone built one? Do they live up to the expectations?

Heard many good things about the. I know a guy with on in his 68 camaro and a guy with one in his 69 nova and they both have nothing but great praise for it.

I was starting to build one for my chevelle before I sold the car. I think they are great motors. everyone I`ve talked to that has had one loved it. I still have a crank and block if your interested.

I was starting to build one for my chevelle before I sold the car. I think they are great motors. everyone I`ve talked to that has had one loved it. I still have a crank and block if your interested.

Most any motor can be a great motor if you build it right. All the hoopla and hype about these motors is largely speculation for a street driven car.

I will concede this much, concerning the 'hoopla and hype', most people do NOt build these motors, or use them for applications which they would ideally be suited to. Thus I concede a well built 350 would be essentially the same beast on the street.

That said - I think pending application need/demand and appropriate utilization, a 377 is leaps and bounds beyond what a 350 would be capable of.

Essentially we are talking about a bigger version of a 302 here.

I just asked a guy about his and he said the only problem he hears about 377's is the plugs foul often?

I am not sure where he got that they "plugs foul often" but, I would advise that you not take his advice anymore.

A 377 is a good engine but, to say "what do you guys think about them?" is an impossible question to answer with the limited info you provided. They are great engines for light cars with manual transmissions. They would stink for a heavy car with 2.73 gears and an automatic. Get my point? Like most things when it comes to hot rodding or going fast, it all depends on the combination. If you have always wanted to build one I say go for it. Everyone has their reasons for what they do, you don't need approval from others to build what you want (not that that's what you are asking for).

Most any motor can be a great motor if you build it right. All the hoopla and hype about these motors is largely speculation for a street driven car.


well he wasn`t asking about any motor, he was asking about a 377 and I gave my opinion. it isn`t about hoopla or hype as you put it. It`s about building the motor you want and how you want. I went through this on my post over on the chevelle board. Build what you want, as long as it matches the rest of the drivetrain it will run great. Alot of people don`t like the 377 but if you let other peoples opinions get in your way of what you want to build, then you end up with your buddys motor, not yours.

I will concede this much, concerning the 'hoopla and hype', most people do NOt build these motors, or use them for applications which they would ideally be suited to. Thus I concede a well built 350 would be essentially the same beast on the street.

That said - I think pending application need/demand and appropriate utilization, a 377 is leaps and bounds beyond what a 350 would be capable of.

Essentially we are talking about a bigger version of a 302 here.

My point is that the 377 isn't a special engine, nor is the 302. My 383 had a larger bore and a shorter stroke than the 377 but you never hear the 383 touted as a high rpm screamer.

My point is that the 377 isn't a special engine, nor is the 302. My 383 had a larger bore and a shorter stroke than the 377 but you never hear the 383 touted as a high rpm screamer.

I don`t know what bore/stroke you had but the traditional 383 isn`t known for high rpms because of the longer stroke. I`ve seen some built with very good and expencive parts that would rev like a short stroke motor. There are no "special" motors. They all have their place. and everyone has their ideas. I love 327`s more than any other sbc motor but it isn`t special, just my favorite. There are plenty of other motors that will out perform it. I could`nt care less about the 283`s or 302`s that can rev to the moon. I like the 377 concpet as well. short stroke, big bore, should make alot of power with the right parts but it`s nothing special at all.

If you can find a good 400 block, just build a 400. It will make more power and more TQ in a usable RPM range for the same or less money.

I don`t know what bore/stroke you had but the traditional 383 isn`t known for high rpms because of the longer stroke.

Mine was a stock 383 with a 4.25" bore, 3.375" stroke and 6.36" rods.

build a 400 small block bud.i have had the 377 engines and they were not that much different than the 355 motors i have built.a solid roller 355 will please you if you want high revving fuin and a huge converter or stick.the 400 will make that power everywhere and monster torque on top of that.some guys my disagree with me but i have been there.plugs fouling?i dont think so.can you tune a carb?the 377 is fun but for the money you will like a 400 small block alot better.

Mine was a stock 383 with a 4.25" bore, 3.375" stroke and 6.36" rods.


How do you call that a stock 383? you had to have used a aftermarket block to get that bore size unless you build a 383 bigblock and destroked it.

How do you call that a stock 383? you had to have used a aftermarket block to get that bore size unless you build a 383 bigblock and destroked it.

It's a stock 383 because it came stock in my Mopar. Funny how that motor never was touted as a high rpm screamer even with the large bore, short stroke, long rod configuration.

as others have said, unless you have a darned good reason, and the only one I can think of would be a race rule requirement, never give up cubes.

Displacment = power, always.

A 377 must start with a 4.125" bore block, that block came with a 3.75" stroke crank. Build a 406, period.

Don't ever tell me big cube small blocks don't rev.... I've ridden in Mark.L.W.'s 427 sbc 69 vert, and you are wrong!

Jim is right on the money, big engines and long stroke engine can be built to rev reliably -- a 406 is far from a big stroke engine anyway.

the comment made that "the 383 isn't known to rev" is Internet myth and heresay. Completely untrue info that keeps getting circulated on the net and ice cream shops.

It's a stock 383 because it came stock in my Mopar. Funny how that motor never was touted as a high rpm screamer even with the large bore, short stroke, long rod configuration.


well that would explain it,lol. I was thinking chevy. I don`t know much about mopar stuff.

the comment made that "the 383 isn't known to rev" is Internet myth and heresay. Completely untrue info that keeps getting circulated on the net and ice cream shops.


Well I sure seem to be getting nailed on this post. I never said big inch motors could`nt rev, just that they need high dollar light weight parts if they want to stay together for any amount of time if they keep spining high rpms. the commont about "internet myth and heresay" is bs because not too many 383`s get spun very high because the owner is afraid to spin it. I know several 383`s that spin to 7000-7500 and even some 454`s that do the same rpm but it isn`t a myth. back in the day,everyone wanted the 427 over the 454 because it would spin higher and faster because it had a shorter stroke. Anything is possible if you got the money to do it right. I`ve made my comments about the 377 here and on the chevelle board so I`m done with that. The bottom line is that you should build what you want. your always going to have some jackass tell you," you should have built this or that", but it`s your money. build it the way you want to plain and simple. I need to learn not to reply on posts like this because once there are always going to be people who want you to build the motor they think you should have. you want him to build a big inch motor? then you cough up the money for it. otherwise just let him build it the way he wants. ok, I`m done now. you guys can continue to attack me because I have a different opinion.

If you can find a good 400 block, just build a 400. It will make more power and more TQ in a usable RPM range for the same or less money.
Agreed. I started out wanting a built 350, then a 383. I finally woke up and realized that there is no replacement for displacement. :D So I am going to build a 406 for my 67 Camaro. A lot of torque is what makes a street car fun to drive.

The 377 along with ALL small block Chevy combinations can be bad ass, if built right. I know EVERYONE can agree with this.

Now for "my" opinion. I'd build a 377 over a 355 or a 383 without thinking twice because of the larger bore. Then again, I'd build a 406 over a 377 without thinking twice. I'm into as much power as possible. That's the exact reason I'm building the biggest motor that my budget will allow. A 496 big block.

It comes down to what you want.

AND TO MAYBE HELP US HELP YOU BETTER, A FEW QUESTIONS FOR YOU:

1) Are you building this motor from scratch? (this is assuming you only have the block.)

2) What parts do you have so far, if any?

3) How much horsepower are you used to?

4) Are you the type that "always wants more" no matter how much power you have?

Well I sure seem to be getting nailed on this post. I never said big inch motors could`nt rev, just that they need high dollar light weight parts if they want to stay together for any amount of time if they keep spining high rpms. the commont about "internet myth and heresay" is bs because not too many 383`s get spun very high because the owner is afraid to spin it. I know several 383`s that spin to 7000-7500 and even some 454`s that do the same rpm but it isn`t a myth. back in the day,everyone wanted the 427 over the 454 because it would spin higher and faster because it had a shorter stroke. Anything is possible if you got the money to do it right. I`ve made my comments about the 377 here and on the chevelle board so I`m done with that. The bottom line is that you should build what you want. your always going to have some jackass tell you," you should have built this or that", but it`s your money. build it the way you want to plain and simple. I need to learn not to reply on posts like this because once there are always going to be people who want you to build the motor they think you should have. you want him to build a big inch motor? then you cough up the money for it. otherwise just let him build it the way he wants. ok, I`m done now. you guys can continue to attack me because I have a different opinion.

Anthony, not trying to "nail you" or attack you on this post -- it just isn't correct that 383's won't rev OR won't rev without expensive parts. They don't require any more expensive parts then short stroke motors do -- in fact, my old 388" motor went to 7 grand regularly with no more then an Eagle cast crank crank and Eagle SIR 5.7" rods. The engine had tons of passes and miles on it and is still alive and well in someone's street car. My new 410" motor (3.800" stroke) revs just as good as my old 383 . . . as for BBC's common drag race motors that see high RPMs are now 496, 502, 540, and 572" combos and they have a lot more weight to sling around than a measly 383 or 406 SB does.

And it won't cost any more to build a 406 because a 400 core would typically have a 400 crank already. It would cost more to build a smaller 3.48" stroke motor because he would have to buy another crank . . . so he would be spending more in order to build a smaller motor.

If the internals will all be aftermarket then it costs the same to build pretty much whatever stroke motor you want. Until you start looking at real long or odd strokes that require custom pistons or rods . . .

Noone is trying tell him what to build, just sharing our experience with this topic. If a short stroke motor is what trips your trigger go for it -- but if you want to ga fast cubes will get you there

A cast crank stock rod small block will rev right up until it breaks. When that is exactly no one other than "Da Shadow" knows. Statistically I can say this; if you are using cast parts then you will get to the breaking point before the racer who insists upon a blue printed engine with all billet or forged 4340 parts.

There are two schools of thought on this as there is with every point of view. I know of a young fellow who works in a speed shop and all he ever races are stock small block Chevy 350 engines. He runs 350 horse shots of nitrous on a plate system and routinely blows the engine up at least once a month (often the same night he goes racing). He states that there are a infinite number of small block Chevy 350's in the world, and so long as the price of racing is a $250 junk yard motor, and hour and a half of his time (to swap and set up engine) and a full bottle of laughing gas he is happy.

I get emotionally attached to my motors and spend a lot of time and money building all 4340 forged rotating assemblies with forged pistons and tool steel rings. I like the valves to stay in the heads and the heads to stay on the block so I buy all premium parts and inspect them for failure every 25 hours or so. I have run the snot out of my engines for five to seven years at a stretch and have never blown one up in the past ten years. Once I have paid for the engine build; aside from replacing the valve springs every 150 hours and a few gaskets, all I have in my engines is a little labor for the joy of terrorizing the neighborhood. That is my slant on it.

My small block is a 406 but it's installed in a tank of a car, so I need the extra cubes to motivate 4,300 pounds. If I were putting it in a car that weighed in half a ton lighter (say my '77 Nova, or the '85 Camaro) I would have built a 377 because I like living at WOT.

A 377 in a lightweight body is a blast to drive say an Anglia, or '31-'33 Willys, or a repop early '40's Willys all in glass with a full tube chassis, but it could also be in a Vega or a T-bucket. When the weight goes up then just like in a 302 Z/28 driven on the street so must the rear gear ratio to have any hope of street manners. Without a double overdrive manual trans it isn't much fun cruising with 4.88 or 5.13 gears.


Larger Dave

I will say it one more time, "We do not have enough info to give good advice". Everyone is offering opinions and such with no facts. It is NOT always true that the larger engine makes more power. It IS true that the larger engine has more POTENTIAL to make power.

Eric, I know you have put many a big block on the trailer with your street driven pump gas small block. I have done the same. I am not saying a larger engine isn't the way to go, I am saying it's not the ONLY way to go.

The original poster never even said what car he was thinking of building this for nor did he say the intended usage. Without knowing the weight of the car, tranny type, intended use, gear ratio, etc.. we just can't give solid advice. With all things being equal the larger engine will make more torque and power at a lower RPM, that is not to say that at the upper RPM range the smaller engine couldn't out power the larger one.

If you want to build a 377, build it. Put the combination together that will make the most power where you want it. It's really that simple.

The "myth" that 383's don't like to rev is not completely true or false. It depends. In many cases you just don't "have" to rev them to get the results (compared to a smaller engine). The combination will determine how well any given engine will want to rev.

As already said it's your money you are spending, spend it the way you want. If you have always wanted to build a 377 that will not change and you will always want to build it. Might as well do it, you only live once. If you don;t like it it's not like you can't change it.

I think it's funny -

When comparing a 302 to a 350, the 350 won't rpm because of the "long" stroke, but that same long stroke crank becomes a short stroke crank when you put it in a 400 block and will suddenly rev to the moon. Sheesh.

Lot's of good dialogue off this one. Great comments guys.

My first post was 'vague' I wasnt looking for thoughts on combo's...just general discussion - which is exactly what is going on.

My neighbour was set to build a 383 for his camaro and I WAS THE ONE who suggested he just go with a 406 - and no replacement for displacement/why give up the cubes ?? He did build the 406 and it is a very strong motor that revs really well.

I have built a 400 myself. So I am by no- means anti 400.

I was thinking more for a 'racing motor' (NOT drag racing)- if we get really technical and 'theoretical' a 377 DOES seemingly have some advantages - just wondering if anyone has seen those advantages played out?

for a street car, or 9 times out of 10 I would just go with the 406...

Maybe too its a little desire to build something different though. something i havent done before.

- An issue I do have is the 400 block. I dont really trust them. I have always been a little troubled by those simaese bores..I know allot have been built over the years and run problem free....I jsut always feel a little better with a 350 block.

anyone else share that feeling?

I think it's funny -

When comparing a 302 to a 350, the 350 won't rpm because of the "long" stroke, but that same long stroke crank becomes a short stroke crank when you put it in a 400 block and will suddenly rev to the moon. Sheesh.


I never said the 350 would`nt rev because of the "long stroke" or that it magically "revs to the moon" in a 400 block. I don`t consider the 350 stroke to be all that long.

1) Are you building this motor from scratch? (this is assuming you only have the block.)

2) What parts do you have so far, if any?

3) How much horsepower are you used to?

4) Are you the type that "always wants more" no matter how much power you have?

- yes from scratch.
-no parts for this one so far.
- used to a BBC about 500 solid HP
-Not really, but with this 377 plan I'd like something that would pull like a god damn when already up in the range.

Anthony - That wasn't directed at you or anyone in particular - it's just the general feeling I get after reading a lot of posts on the web. For the typical street motor set-up, it just seems that the limiting factor is the valve train. Whether a 302 0r a 406, with most typical street cams they run out of poop at 6,000 -6,500 RPM, and it really doesn't do any good to wind 'em higher anyway.

Royce, while we normally agree on most things I don't see why you would waffle around ;) by saying larger engines only have the "potential" to make more power. Well of course larger engines have the potential to make more power!!! That's why most of us would prefer to build a larger engine!!! So unless you are stuck using some restrictive small-engine-friendly part "potential" is irrelevant -- build a combo that actually does get every last bit of practical power out of the engine.

Hank Williams Jr -- what "advantages" does a 377 have over a 406? please share, I'd like to learn ;)

I do agree that good 400 blocks are hard to come by -- but hate to say it so are 350 blocks these days! So when I found a good 400 block, I built the biggest engine out of it I could afford and am very happy I did. :D

haha, I'm with you, Eric!
Royce, I rarely disagree with you on anything, but this time...
I don't think the usage is even a factor.

All else being equal, a bigger engine will make more power than a smaller one, though it may peak at a slightly lower rpm, that peak will always be higher.

The only question mark in this discussion is the availability of a good useable 4 1.8" bore block.

If original GM cast crank and GM 5.7" 350 rods are used, regardless of if the motor is a 355, 377, 383, or 406, I wouldn't regularly wind it higher than 6k, and all else being equal, each step larger in displacement will produce a lil more power and torque at a slightly lower rpm. Cost to build will not change enough to matter.

A step up to all forged internals will increase the potential rpm to 7k plus. Regardless of the cam/heads/induction used (and therefore regardless of the rpm range the engine will actually operate in), the larger engine will still make more power, and all 4 will still cost very near the same.

If I had a 4" bore block, I'd build a 383. 4 1/8" bore block would be a 406. Unlimited coin would be a 427, period.

Eric and Jim,
Both of you should know me well enough by now. A blanket statemnet was made that "the larger engine always makes more power" this is not true, period. I have proven it too many times. The part about all things being equal was left out. There are some occasions where the higher winding smaller engine will have an advantage depending on the rest of the vehicle, this is why I say we don't have enough information. In 99% of the cases the larger engine would have the advantage.

My main pint was not to argue over which engine is better, becaue it all depends on how each engine is built, how the car is geared and what it weighs, what parts are going to be used in the engine. We haven't even gotten into heads, for the 406 to RPM like the 377 you are going to need larger heads and more cam. We have no idea what heads he has or plans to use.

If I have a brand new set od 190cc runner heads and a 400 block I would think seriously about buildin a 377. Now if I have a set of 215 0r 220cc and a 400 block I build the larger engine (assuming these engines are for street/strip use).

More cubic inches does not gaurantee more power, it just gives you the potential to make more power, that's a fact. If not, then why would we race at all, the guy with the larger engine would win everytime, right? Yes, I know other factors come into play.

It is his money and his car, if he has always wanted a 377 then he should build it. Nobody asked me or anyone else "what they would do" he just wanted comments and thoughts on the 377.

If the question was "What do you think about a 377 vs. a 406? Then my answers would be a little different.

Jim,
With unlimited funds why would you stop at a 427 SBC? why not 434? You can build them even bigger than that now. If bigger is better, you would want to max it out right? There are other issue when you start building them real big.

Eric, Thanks for the breakfast suggestion, I will go have some waffles now, LOL (seriously).

Here's a better idea -- if you want a 377 just buy a new GM block for about $700 and put a 3.75" crank in it. With a standard 4.00" bore you would have a 377 :D Then you can sell your 400 block to someone that needs it ;)

PS. Royce with 190cc heads I would still build a 406 over a 377 ;) With a set of stock camel humps I would still build a 406 over a 377 ;)

Hope them waffles were good . . . how's the Buick coming anyway? Got it on the road yet?

This is just from personal experience and usage myself in my cars. That being said, here is goes:

The motor:

Summit racing 450 hp 383. I bought it used from a friend around 99 or so. Rev'd to 7500 with no problem. Stock reground crank, 5.7 rods and a flat tappet hyd. Absolutely maint. free. I ran it with many bottles even with the kb pistons. Was an absolute hoot to drive on the street. Still alive this day. My only change was when I freshened it up for the new owner and replaced the cracked crank, which was ran that way for about 3 years with a eagle cast. Still runs low 12's and high 9's on the jug in a chevelle.

377. Bought it from the same guy that orginally bought the above 383. Again I freshened it up and ran it. In my 72 camaro, it was more fun, but it had a herbert solid roller and afr heads. Again another maint free motor. It is a 4 bolt, .030 under on the mains gm steel crank with spacer bearings, stock 5.7 rods with arp rod bolts. Once installed in the Nova, it ran 10.90's and high 8's on the jug.

So here is my 2 bolts. The common denominator is 90% of what i was told about the this and that about how they should rev and other stuff was B.S. The one thing was the original machine work and clearancing was top notch. The combos were relatively low buck and simple not exotic parts. Both motors are still running and have not been freshened since I did it. It is of no credit to me only the orginal machine work.

I would do both of them again in a heart beat. The pros and cons will always be debateable, but the simple solution is do what you want and dont worry about the hype.

Sorry guy!! I have a problem with a hy- flat tappet cam going to 7,500!!

Or were they locking the hy-lifters out and treating it like a solid cam?? Then I can believe 7500 rpm!!

The best I could ever get out of a hy-cam is like 6500!! And that was locked out, (i.e., zero hy-lifter pre-load), and I beat a lifter retaining clip out!!!

So why the h-ll use a hy-cam in the first place??

pdq67

Eric,
The waffles were good thanks for the suggestion, lol. I would build the 406 or 415 also. I am just saying it's not up to me to tell him what to build. In the end the engine is more than likely not going to be the limiting factor on performance either way. If the car can't hook the 406 then it is wasted torque and power anyway.

The buick is coming along slowly. My new job is 12 hour days, I don't feel like working on the car after that. I usually get 3-4 days off a week and I try to get things done then. I need to get on the body work and paint after that it should fall together pretty fast. The running gear is in to stay(engine, tranny, driveshaft, etc..) I need to build headers and plumb the fuel system. The weather has been 100+ for the whole week and supposed to be 112* Sunday, not sure how much I will get done this weekend. Yesterday was 105* I didn't touch the car.

Geez, I was complaining with it being 95 here . . . but its not a dry heat like yours. LOL

I like having too much TQ :) A good problem to have .. .

PS. and I hope noone is thinking I am trying tell tell anyone what to build -- I am not. I just don't like seeing people spend their time and money building something that is supposedly superior based on misinformation . . . that's kind of how I feel about the destroked 400 . . .

Sorry guy!! I have a problem with a hy- flat tappet cam going to 7,500!!

Or were they locking the hy-lifters out and treating it like a solid cam?? Then I can believe 7500 rpm!!

The best I could ever get out of a hy-cam is like 6500!! And that was locked out, (i.e., zero hy-lifter pre-load), and I beat a lifter retaining clip out!!!

So why the h-ll use a hy-cam in the first place??

pdq67

If you have a problem with it, so be it.

Hyd lifters and cam, locking out lifters is not a very wise thing to do.

Something must be wrong with your lifters and or valvespring combo. iI have a PSCA limited street motor that revs to 8500 with a hyd roller. Thats not the shift point but it has gone that far.

The hyd flat tappet was used because Jason epected to save some moeny when he order the motor and passed the hyd roller option. That is what summit specd and it worked.

Guys,

Help bring me up to speed here b/c I didn't know we could RPM hy-cam lifters this high is all!

I know I'm old school but give me a break here b/c I wanna learn something here!!

pdq67

well my buddy had a 350 with a Isky 292 mega and would rev it to 7000-7500rpms pretty regularly and he also had a 327 with a comp 305 that would turn 7500 before you knew what was going on. Never had any problem and he used the matching lifters to the cam.

Geez, I was complaining with it being 95 here . . . but its not a dry heat like yours. LOL

I like having too much TQ :) A good problem to have .. .

PS. and I hope noone is thinking I am trying tell tell anyone what to build -- I am not. I just don't like seeing people spend their time and money building something that is supposedly superior based on misinformation . . . that's kind of how I feel about the destroked 400 . . .
Not me :) My 'Eric 410' is almost done!

Hahaha :D Are you building the exact same combo as me Rick ? :) What have you changed or done differently?

Eric,
I know you are not telling the guy what to build. I have just found out over the years that if someone has their heart set on something the best thing to do is let them see for themselves. He was not going to hurt himself or anyone else by building the 377. It is not a bad engine combo, they do run well. There are only a couple reasons I would ever build one and those are if I had a nice 350 crank laying around along with a 400 block and a light car with a manual transmission or maybe in a road race type application (pro touring deal). It would be fun to row through the gears with an engine like that. I would not build it for drag racing but, as I said before we have no idea what it would be going in or what he use of it would be. Eric we usually agree because we are both power junkies and always want the most possible power. Sometimes you have to remember not everyone is like us and just a good running engine is all they want. It's hard for me too, whenever I am helping someone with a combo I have to step back and think about what they want and remember not everyone wants to drag race. Just ook around this site there are a ton of nice cars and many will never see the track and don't care to, in that case what difference does it make if it's a 377 or 406, 410, 415, 427 etc.. A properly built 327 is plenty for most. Also if he built the 377 and got bored he could always up the cubes with a little work and a few dollars.

Well 95* is warm, no doubt. It was about that at 10PM last night. It was 104 by 11:30 AM yesterday and the high was 111* anything over 100* and it really doesn't matter it's just hot 105 or 115 not much difference if you ask me. It's too hot to do bodywork or spray primer.

Aside from the Opal GT and the Vega/Monza; can anybody think of a lightweight body built by GM that will accept a SBC (not necessarily factory installed just have room to stuff one in). I don't recall having seen anything other than those three body styles that really demand a high reving small block be installed.


Larger Dave

Dave,
Monzas and Vegas aren't really as light as many people think I have owned several of both. My 1961 Skylark is lighter than both of those. If you want light the first gen Novas, 61-62 Tempest, Cutlass, Skylarks are all pretty light as well. Would you like more suggestions? Who said the car had to be built by GM?

Royce, I was glad you guys here at TC talked me into building a 383 6 years ago instead of a 355. I had built a few 355's before and never realized what a HUGE difference that extra 1/4" stroke made until I built one.

The extra 1/8" bore with the new motor only makes a couple tenths difference, but the extra 1/4" stroke made a full second difference over the last similar 355 I built. Even if drag racing isn't the goal, the seat-of-the-pants-o-meter definately will feel stroker TQ.

I realize there are different strokes for different folks (pun intended :) ) and that's cool (sidebar -- I would love to build a 4.5" bore by 3.76" stroke BBC with flat tops and a small chamber sometime) I just don't want to see someone build what they think they want based on misinformation (ie: 383's don't rev, 377's rev to the moon, etc.)

I think we've beat this dead horse to a pulp and by now I'm sure you know what I mean so I'll let you have the last word ;)

ps. If you want to build something really unusual Hank, take a look at Joe Sherman's 307 based stroker motor that made well over 600 HP NA on pump gas. :D

Hahaha :D Are you building the exact same combo as me Rick ? :) What have you changed or done differently?

I have ProToplines , originally 180's but now 192's :), and a Comp Cam HR Mike Lewis spec'd (.585I/.540E, 288/293, 236/242@.050). My pistons are .010 out of the hole, Scat 3.800 forged stroker, SRP flattops, Scat 7/16" capscrew I-Beam, etc.) Can't wait.

I just don't want to see someone build what they think they want based on misinformation (ie: 383's don't rev, 377's rev to the moon, etc.


Again, I never said the 383 could`nt rev, just that it wasn`t know to be a high rpm motor. I also never said the 377 would rev to the moon, that was your quote.

It's not about getting the last word in. We actually agree without you even knowing it. I already said I would build the larger engine too. Like you I wasn't a believer of strokers until I spun a bearing in my 355. I decided to add the cubic inches and have been a firm believer every since. If you were to check some previous posts, I have said I will never build a SBC under 383ci. also on every post that has come up with 377 vs 400, I also said why give up the extra cubes. I took a different stance this time ONLY because the guy said "I have ALWAYS wanted to build a 377". You only live once so what the heck, build it. We can't all have 383's, 406's, 427's, etc..

God. So much great info here. I have been away from Pc for a few day's- So I missed out on allot of the discussion as it was unfolding.

I totally agree on the 'you only live once' comment. It would be worth it just to 'try' I have had lots of other motors - so why not just see how a 377 is?

Also, great comment on - if it sucks. Its not the biggest deal in the world to turn it into a 406.

As for the cam debate. I'm all for mechanical cams - that's what I would be stabbing in a potential 377.

I wouldnt say a 377 would rev to the moon. But I think a balanced blue printed 377. with forged parts. studded. with a mech cam. It should spin up pretty nicely.

Guess'll have to build it to find out for sure huh?

Two things reading back over this!!

I think my Mom's Chevette had an engine compartment big enough that a SB would drop right in it like it was made for it!!

Second, anybody but me here ever ride in a or drive a "W" motor car of old??

I ask b/c the old 348" "W" motor ran just like a 283 SB!!

And my .060" over hopped up 409" like a 327 too!

Chevy just went for more easily made torque when they increased the next gen. or Mark IV BB's stroke to 3.76" vs the 409's at 3.5" long!!

You want a big bore, short stroke BB motor that will rpm about like a SB, then consider an old 409 but with modern, lighter hollow dome/wedge pistons in it. NOT the heavy pistons they came with stock..

I like the idea of using a W/P or Dart SB block bored out to 4.25" with a 3.25" crank in it to make a 369" motor or a 3.48" crank in it for a 395" motor, BUT by the time I add the money up, I can have a heck of a big BB!

4.625" b x 3.76" s = 505" motor is all!!!! That I figure will rpm about like a 327 SB!!!!!

pdq67