Installed 69 RS headlight conversion on my standard 69 doors are not going closed by 5/8 to 1/2 inch from the grill on the sidea adjusted the actuators at the rear brackets all they will adjust also with the 5/8 gap to the grill on sides theres the same gap inside from the bumper stopfor door from the other posts on here others have run into this looks like to me there jig for welding the bellcrank assy is off where the arm hooks to the door actuator and bellcrank bottom as far as it can go whats the fix other than bending arms or cutting loose and welding arm a little further on bellcrank Im a little dissapointed on how all this stuff fits ?

I'm doing the same conversion - one of my doors wouldn't close all the way. Look carefully at the healight bucket - mine was stamped incorrectly and the door was actually hitting the bucket, keeping it from closing all the way. A little gentle persuasion with a hammer and a grinder solved the problem. I'm operating my doors with a homemade electric motor system, so I can't comment on the actuators. The bellcranks operate as they should.

PS - Your posts would be much easier to read if you used some punctuation.

Mine are not hitting the headlight buckets they are bottoming out in the actuators like they need to go farther or bellcrank arms bent farther over.

I am having the same problem with my 68 RS headlights. From what I can determine, the reproduction vacuum canisters are not identical to the orginals. When the actuator retracts all the way in, it does not pull the crank back far enough to close the doors all the way. It appears that the reproductions are a bit too large. The only solution I can come up with is either to severely bend the cranks to accomodate the decreased distance that the actuator pulls back. Or, to use a short piece of metal with holes drilled in it to extend or bridge the distance between where the headlight door attaches to the crank in order to move the door outboard the extra 1/2 to 1 inch distance required to have the doors close all the way. Does anyone else have a solution? I thought about moving the actuator mounting bracket back (on the inner fender), but that would involve drilling new mounting holes and changing the geometry of everything under the fender.