I need some advice on what to put on the old rust-pitting on the inside bottom of my doors on my 69. The doors are finished but i look down inside them and cringe at the nasty's and I obviously don't want that to creep back to the outside or rust through. Is the POR 15 stuff a good choice for coating the insides and killing any remaining rust?

I've used por 15 on everything from frames, to trunk and floor pans that were surface rusted, and never had it peel or see any more signs of rust. Good stuff!

This is my first post on this forum. I am a new '69 camaro owner and had the same question. Where do you get this product (por 15) that kills the rust. I will need a whole boat load of it.

POR15 doesn't kill rust.
It is painted right onto rust to stop it from spreading. Do a search through the forum and you'll come up with a bunch of products and just as many opinions on their uses.

http://www.por15.com/

There is also:
Zero Rust (http://www.zero-rust.com/)
Rust Encapsulator (http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=1130&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=373&iSubCat=374&iProductID=1130)
Rust Bullet (http://rustbullet.com/?gclid=CMv-yZOGz4YCFQqEHgodMQGfyw)

And many others....

You can also use a product referred to as a rust converter. It is a liquid painted over rust to oxidize it and it all turns to a black oxide while teh converter laves a protective coating. I got some at AutoZone and used it on my inner cowl and doors. Worked great.

You had rust on your car??? :) say it isn't so...

I used Rust Bullet on my problem areas and it seemes to be good... only time will tell though...
You can also use a product referred to as a rust converter. It is a liquid painted over rust to oxidize it and it all turns to a black oxide while teh converter laves a protective coating. I got some at AutoZone and used it on my inner cowl and doors. Worked great.
Codi, you want your job back?

The 'Secret' to any of these type of rust-repair-by coating-it is to be sure the rust is stopped (or neutralized) BEFORE you apply the top coat of whatever you want.
POR-15 has complete instructions with their products that tell you to;
1.) remove any oil/grease on the area with their "Marine Clean" product OR you can use any good degreaser/cleaner to get it off (paint doesn't stick good to oil...)
2.) remove any loose rust/paint/whatever with a wire brush so the paint will contact a good surface and establish a strong bond. I use a wire-cup in my 4.5" grinder to do most of this. You don't need or want bright clean metal - just no loose stuff...
3.) treat the area with their "Metal Ready" rust converter/neutralizer product OR you can purchase any of the many converter products, like my favorite "Ospho" ( http://www.ospho.com/ ), on the market at a local hardware/paint store. This will provide a good 'acid-y' surface for the paint to adhere to.
4.) topcoat with POR-15 OR your choice of rust-paint from a local source. Thruthfully (don't let my friendy POR lady at the shows read this ;) ) I have done frames etc in 'POR-15', Rustolium Black, Eastwoods product and 'Rust Bullet' - and so far they have all performed very well. I really can't tell any differences in the finishs after many years except for the POR, which has slightly dulled over the years but still looks good.
I use them all from time to time, but lately I've gravitated more towards Rustolium Semi-gloss Black from the local hardware store. It seems to last well and can be touched up very easily if I rework something and it blends in very well and doesn't show where it was recoated like the others.

You can find POR products all over really. It's sold at many local car shows by the local distributors. It can be bought on-line - go to Hemmings web-site ( www.hemmings.com ) and search for POR-15. My local favorite paint store ( "Ned's" in Concord, CA ) even carries it - check with some of yours.

Hope this helps;
John

POR-15 is also on the internet in several places. Just google a search for POR15. Your very first step should be to get a POR catalog, without it you will get hopelessly confused due to all of the different POR products.
There is a little industry of POR reps that help you step thru all the questions and all the products.

DO FOLLOW DIRECTIONS especially with regard to gloves, goggles and respirator and adequate ventilation!

After reading all kinds of stuff on POR15 and using it on my chassis, I think
RUST BULLET might actually be a less expensive but better performing solution because POR is UV sensitive and the UV coatings or top coats that POR sells are as expensive as POR15 is in the first place.

RUST BULLET doesn't require a UV protective shield and it doesn't require the intensive preparations either. POR doesn't absolutely require a UV top coat either, but thats why it dulls over time.

The catch with RUST BULLET is you can only have it in one color - grey. BUT it is not UV sensitive And the independent testing results are really very impressive. Just google a search for RUST BULLET for more information.

I also have a chassis done in Rustoleum black. Looks really good and seems to last at least a few years. Must less expensive, but
probably won't last as long as either of the two above. 10 years or more might actually be realistic for them.

Then again some of the original paint on parts of my 1946 GMC half ton chassis was still as good as new! It all sort of depends how fanatical you want to get.

Next, I think I'm gonna try coating both sides of all my sheetmetal with RUST bullet (because its easier and tests better) and then paint it with POR topcoat or engine enamel as appropriate. That means I may not be 100% factory accurate on color, but I will have effectively powder coated everything on the vehicle!

Gary

I agree. There are many great products on the market to "neutralize" or "encapsulate" or "convert" rust (FeO) I think that for alot of us we get in a hurry to get the whole car de-reusted in a single weekend. The prep work is key to keeping rust at bay! i always try to get as much rust outta the panel as possible before using any of the rust produsts, although POR claims that you just "get the loose rust off"...and it needs a certain amount of rust to do work it's magic. I used por15 on a few different panels 6 years ago and the rust has not come back through anywhere that I used it. It is a great product imho. I have not tried "rust mort", rust bullet or some of the others yet, but folks say they all work about the same. I will also agree that reading the directions is important too. por15 will stick with you on your forearms for a long time (don't ask how I know this....:) )
Dano

If you dont have a compressor and sand blaster and experience using spray paint products, like me, then POR is great stuff. It will be on your arms for weeks if you dont cover up and its VERY dangerous to breathe. BUT its awesome stuff, spreads easily with foam brushes and so far has been my best friend in stopping rust. This might give you an idea of how it looks with before and after parts. :)

http://www.brainerd.net/~knudsen/69RS/FrontEndProject/PartsPorCompare.jpg

I would use a wire brush and scrub the affected area as much as possible. Blow it out good with air and apply Naval Jelly or some other phosphoric acid bearing product and scrub some more. Rinse well with water and dry. Treat it when done with something like PPG DX520 to suppress the flash rust.

Products like POR15 cover and do not rid your car of it. I do not like those type products.