Guys I posted a couple weeks ago about some ?'s on my 383 build and what cam that you thought I should use and you wanted to know more about my cars tranny,gears,head cc,etc. The trans. is a turbo 350 with a manual valve body ,shift kit ,and about a 2600 or a 2800 hundred converter,the heads are 64 cc angle plug aluminum Pro Comps,the rear is an 8.5'' with 3:42 posi I don't know how much the car weighs but it is a 68 that has been restored back to almost origional condition,maybe someone can have an educated guess about the weight and power brakes.
The parts that I have already bought are as follows,Eagle ESP cast 383 x 6.000'' x 3.750'' 2 pc rear seal crank,Scat Pro series Rods, 7/16'' rod bolts 6.000'' x 2.100'' bushed, SRP 5cc Forged flat top 6.000'' pistons, Moly file fit ring set, Clevite 77 Main and rod bearings,A Ccloyes true double roller timing chain set, Pro Comp 64cc angle plug Aluminum heads,an Edlebrock Performer RPM intake, A Holley 650 dual line electric choke,A Mallory Unilite Distrutor, Wires , and coil, Melling high volume oil pump.
The block that I have is a 4 blt main,with the 010-020 under the timing chain, I think the block is about 70-74.I have been reading some posts about the 383's , about cam and rod clearence, small base circle cams.The 327 in my car now has a real good lope to it and for a little 327 it realy hauls a##. I have been looking through the JEGS catalog at different cams ,I want a cam with a good rough idle that sounds as good as I think the thing should run.A couple that I was looking at ,are the Comp Cams 280H-280 Adv.Dur 480''Lift 2000-6000 RPM---Comp Cams 292-H-292 Adv Dur 501'' Lift 2500-6500 RPM and also the Crane Enegizer 282H----Adv-Dur 282 Gross Lift 470'' 2400-6200 RPM.I dont know how these cams will work with my setup with the clearence problems of the cam, crank, and rods and all that I've heard about with the 383's. Could someone give me some advice on this, it would be appreciated, Thanks Camaro BOB

If you want that size cam you probably want a single plane intake like the Weiand 7004. JMO

Any you listed will be fine and I would get it ground on a small base circle to be safe. I'm running the 280H and am happy with it for what it is (look below)...but...getting ready to make a big step up.

Exactly which rods do you have?

The I-beam rods with ground beams and 7/16" capscrews will clear a standard base circle cam (and oil pan rail) with no problems.

The H-beams need to be checked, may not clear.

I just got done assembling the bottem end on my 389, you probably already know this but with any stroker motor you always mock the motor up before sending it to be balenced. now that being said im runing a lunati bracket master 2 cam .480 lift .230 dur@.050 and a 109* LSA. reworked GM X rods with a arp kit. I had to grind into the rod shoulders like hell to get them to clear. all I can tell you is get a cam in the .220-.230 dur @.050 mock it up one piston at a time and make damn sure you have good clearences I personally like about a .050 clearences between all moving parts but .035 is acceptable

My car is alot like yours but I run 3.73 gears and 750VS carb. I have the same heads. I use a 5.7 rod and the hyper pistons with an 18cc dish. I dont know that the intake will fit those heads. I run a Vic jr intake and had to do quite a bit of port matching that I could not do on the weiand stealth manifold cause the runners werent big enough. If you look at how tall the intake ports are on those heads you will see what I mean. You may have to go with a different manifold. In my engine I run a XE274 comp hydraulic flat tappet. Power brakes work great and it has a pretty aggresive idle. I find that the engine revs really quick and pulls really hard. I built the engine to be able to jump in and drive whenever I feel which is pretty much everyday. I am really happy with it and having raced a few of my friends I am confident that it will run 12.5 or better in the quarter mile. I would recommend that cam, seems to work really well for me. If I were to try anything I would try a 1.6 rocker to maybe take advantage of the extra lift.

Also keep in mind you will either have to buy an oil pan or modify your stock pan so the rod bolts will clear it. I have a friend that learned this the hard way, he used a stock oil pan and started the car. They had to pull the motor to get the oil pan off and "modify" it with a hammer.

JIM M,,,The rods that I have are the Scat Pro Series, 6'' I-Beam rods that are polished on the beams and have the 7/16" rod bolts and are supposed to be clearenced on the cap side for stroker motors,Is that what you were talking about.They are on the bottom of page 29 in the new JEGS catalog Part # 942-26000716 at a pretty good price of 289.99,also exatly what do they mean by a small base cam,are the lobes flater or smaller in diameter or what,and what do you mean by the term "LSA" when you are talking about setting up the cam,I'm not sure I know what you mean by that I was just curious,but I will check with the guy at the machine shop when I get my block done,,,,Thanks for the info everyone .PS Also someone was talking about the rods on a stroker motor hitting the oil pan and I was wandering if the Moroso 7 QT pan with the sides that stick out at the bottom will be alright and not have the problem,not only with the rods but with the headers not hitting them, or perhaps the starter or steering box,,,Thanks I am getting a little carried away Camaro BOB

Those are exactly the rods I have. They clear fine, as in LOTS of room, with my comp 270H cam. They also clear the b locks oil pan rails and stock oil pan.

LSA is lobe separation angle. One of the tricks in making cams is to tighten or loosen the angle between the intake and exhaust lobes. 110-112 is "normal", tighter than 110 helps high rpm power, increases overlap and gives a more radical sounding idle. Modern stock motors use very wide LSA's, 116 on some. This minimizes overlap, smooths the idle, helps midrange torque, and bleeds off compression. That's a big reason an LS2 runs 11:1 comp on pump gas.

Moving the cam lobes around also effect rod clearance some.

GOOD call Jim!!

pdq67