View Full Version : Distributor Break In


Charles Brown
Aug 9th, 06, 09:12 AM
I have installed a ready to run MSD distributor and they are saying in the instructions not to break in with synthetic oil and to run something like a standard velocity 10-30. I am currently running synthetic and would like to know if anybody has had experiance with this. I just changed the oil and you know how expensive synthetic is. Thanks.

onovakind67
Aug 9th, 06, 09:17 AM
..a standard velocity 10-30...

Sounds like an old rifle cartridge, made obsolete with the advent of the 30-30...

DjD
Aug 9th, 06, 11:03 AM
Are you talking about cam break-in? I have never heard of dist break-in per say... Most of the warnings of not using synthetic stem from old school beliefs and don't hold a lot of weight these days although a lot of folks still buy in... Here's the directions for your dist I believe.. http://www.msdignition.com/pdf/8360_frm%2023793.pdf I didn't see any break-in recomended...

DOUG G
Aug 9th, 06, 02:23 PM
I installed mine and I run synthetic, it's been out twice and looks fine.... But, it's your call and $$$.

BPOS
Aug 9th, 06, 04:11 PM
At the very least, I'd coat the dist gear with cam break-in lube.

If you're really concerned, you could drain the syn oil into a clean container, cover it, and save it for later. Filter, too.

Ghostbuster
Aug 9th, 06, 07:18 PM
The molecules for Synthetic Oil are engineered to be identical..
Dyno Oil or Orgainic Oil molecules are different sizes and have more friction.

The idea behind any metal gear break-in is to match the 2 surfaces.
This is done by friction.

Synthetic Oil does not provide enough friction to properly wear both surfaces.
The first couple oil changes on an engine break-in should be done with cheap Dyno oil, 10-30 or 10-40 depending on ambient temp and expected horsepower.

..BTW - it's viscosity.. (the property of resistance to flow in a fluid.. thickness and ability to coat)..
...not velocity.. (speed or the quickness of motion)

these are opposing concepts

Dyno Oil
This is very important for cam, ring and crank break-in..
It sounds like you had a running (broke-in) engine, and just replaced the distributor. (it's just bad timing on your recent synthetic oil change)

I agree with BPOS, break-in lube or molly lube is a good idea, but it will sludge your oil, and needs to be replaced soon anyway, (another reason to use cheap Dyno Oil..)

98% of all distributor break-in's go smooth..
The majority of that other 2%, are people who tried to cut corners..

it's not a big risk, buy the risk does exist.
How's your Karma today?