So I had bought a centre force duel friction for my m 21 but I did not get that many mile put on it. I am looking for a replacement disc that would be 26 spline for the super t 10 that I am putting in. the pressure plate should still be good. any one know where I can just order the disc?

I think I saw in Jegs where they were selling the centerforce disk seperately now.

I think you going to have to buy a brand new DF kit. If you had a Centerforce I or II you could just buy a new disk, but I don't think you can buy a DF disk without the pressure plate. According to their website, Centerforce only sells the DF clutch with disk and pressure plate as they are matched together.

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=700+400420+4294865905+4294791101+1 15+4294908216

you can use the same disc between a m-21 and a t-10, they both use the same 26 spline, if your current disc has 10 spline then you have a m-20 or saginaw.

you can use the same disc between a m-21 and a t-10, they both use the same 26 spline, if your current disc has 10 spline then you have a m-20 or saginaw.
Not true.

http://www.5speeds.com/muncie2.htm

Not true.

http://www.5speeds.com/muncie2.htm
OK after reading through the link you posted I take my statement back. I posted that info as all the m-21's I have ever owned or seen have been 26t input. And I have had near a dozen of them + all the t-10's I have gone through. My Bad.

OK after reading through the link you posted I take my statement back. I posted that info as all the m-21's I have ever owned or seen have been 26t input. And I have had near a dozen of them + all the t-10's I have gone through. My Bad.
So it sounds like you have had a few four speeds. may I ask your opinion on how much power the super t-10 will take. I have heard all kinds of different accounts. some say they will blow up if you try to go faster than 12.xxs. others say that they can go in the 10.xxs and still have a long life. My car should go in between until I get a set of decent heads. Then I am hoping for some tens. What do you think?

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=700+400420+4294865905+4294791101+1 15+4294908216
Those are for CFI and CFII clutches. I'm not saying you can't substitute as I think this would be great. Why does CF say they only sell matched pairs? ANyone ask or know if there's an incompatibility?

Those are for CFI and CFII clutches. I'm not saying you can't substitute as I think this would be great. Why does CF say they only sell matched pairs? ANyone ask or know if there's an incompatibility?

Good point. I haven't asked (and, given the incentives, I'm not sure I wouldn't take at least one answer with a grain of salt), but the Centerforce site appears to list the same part number for the clutch disk for both the CFI and the CFII in their application chart.

http://centerforce.com/clutches.tpl?cart=1120862036124873&subsection=clutchselector&searchStr=csearchStr1&cstep1=step1&carmake=CHEVROLET

So it sounds like you have had a few four speeds. may I ask your opinion on how much power the super t-10 will take. I have heard all kinds of different accounts. some say they will blow up if you try to go faster than 12.xxs. others say that they can go in the 10.xxs and still have a long life. My car should go in between until I get a set of decent heads. Then I am hoping for some tens. What do you think?
well it all depends lol, I know thats a cop out...but.....I think the T-10 will live if you keep it in excelent shape( bearings, end play, etc...)and make sure the pilot bearing is perfect, use a roller if possible. Also, dont use a worn out shifter, if the trans hangs up between gears on a powershift, it will puke out parts! the hardest part of getting a manual trans car to go that quick is getting it to launch without either spining, or scattering parts all over the track. this is my problem, I feel the answer is in the overall first gear ratio, and clutch, (I feel that I need a clutch that will slip a tiny bit on launch) but I have not solved it 100% for myself yet, so I cant really give you the lowdown. I can tell you what WONT work when it comes to clutch /gear setup! hahaha.
what are you running for gearing(1rst in trans) and rear gear, and what clutch do you plan to run? - centerforce? - I havent tryed a centerforce so I cant comment on those, but I think ford motorsports sells a 26spline centerforce Dual friction disc seperately - I read that on a mustang site somewhere(its not a sin to look at their web sites is it?...lol).

Per centerforce's website

CAN A NEW DUAL FRICTION DISC BE PURCHASED SEPARATELY?


No. Dual Friction Discs Are Custom Built And Designed To Be Used With Specific Pressure Plate Assemblies. The Pressure Plate Assembly And Clutch Disc Should Always Be Replaced As A Matched Set. If The Disc Has Worn Out, So Has The Pressure Plate.

Per centerforce's website

CAN A NEW DUAL FRICTION DISC BE PURCHASED SEPARATELY?


No. Dual Friction Discs Are Custom Built And Designed To Be Used With Specific Pressure Plate Assemblies. The Pressure Plate Assembly And Clutch Disc Should Always Be Replaced As A Matched Set. If The Disc Has Worn Out, So Has The Pressure Plate.

That's certainly what it says, but then the OP said he had very few miles on his PP, and needed to go from a 10 spline to a 26 spline disk. I think I'd throw another disk in it and not worry about it too much, but then that's me. http://www.camaros.net/forums/images/icons/icon7.gif

I would tend to agree. My PP is good but I got some oil on the disc. Would sure like to hear from someone who did this!

I would tend to agree. My PP is good but I got some oil on the disc. Would sure like to hear from someone who did this!
douse it with brake clean, just like brake linings, it'll be fine.

well it all depends lol, I know thats a cop out...but.....I think the T-10 will live if you keep it in excelent shape( bearings, end play, etc...)and make sure the pilot bearing is perfect, use a roller if possible. Also, dont use a worn out shifter, if the trans hangs up between gears on a powershift, it will puke out parts! the hardest part of getting a manual trans car to go that quick is getting it to launch without either spining, or scattering parts all over the track. this is my problem, I feel the answer is in the overall first gear ratio, and clutch, (I feel that I need a clutch that will slip a tiny bit on launch) but I have not solved it 100% for myself yet, so I cant really give you the lowdown. I can tell you what WONT work when it comes to clutch /gear setup! hahaha.
what are you running for gearing(1rst in trans) and rear gear, and what clutch do you plan to run? - centerforce? - I havent tryed a centerforce so I cant comment on those, but I think ford motorsports sells a 26spline centerforce Dual friction disc seperately - I read that on a mustang site somewhere(its not a sin to look at their web sites is it?...lol).
Most of my experience In racing has been in 5.0 mustangs so don't feel bad about looking at a ford site. I have two 5.0 mustangs. now about the clutch. My friend in a 55 chevy went into the 11s on an Orileys clutch. so I just figured that I would buy it and use it on my cf pressure plate. I will keep you updated on that. If a Honda can go tens on a 6 inch clutch then I can go 11s on a stock 11 1/8 clutch.
Now about the transmission, I don't know much about it. I had a friend rebuild it. He said that everything looked brand new gear wise. He has rebuilt a couple of them and he said that one was in the best condition. I don't know what the first gear it but I am going spin my 396 to about 6500. If it was going to be all motor I would most likely go with 4.10. since I am going to put a 250 shot on it i will either put a 3.73 or 3.55 in it.
engine is about a 10.5 to 1, but I has about the sh!tiest heads ever mad on it. some 66 model truck heads on it. They are so inefficient that I can not even run pump gas in it. They are like 112 114 cc (can't remember exactly) combustion chamber. It feels like about a 13 sec car on the motor. add 250 and I figure it should make an 11 second pass.
http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/463/553/23088.jpg

I recently discussed clutch choices with Ram clutches, and Macleod clutches tech departments. I told them about how I wanted my 450-500ish hp BBC 67 camaro to launch on small tires(275-60 bfg drag radials) and I wanted something easy on driveline parts because I'm sick of fricken smashing everything to peices when I go to the drag strip. I got different answers from both, but the guy on the other end of the phone at RAM seemed to undrestand where I was coming from. he told me to forget everything I thought I knew about clutch setup and try a "single iron" clutch with VERY low static pressure and a sintered iron friction disc. I could not beleive he recomended an adjustable long style pressure plate with only 400lbs of static pressure! He told me that this was the key to getting my car off the line without the frequent parts destruction of old. the sintered iron allows the clutch to slip a bit when the clutch is initially dumped, then the coefecient of frictons goes WAY up as it gets a bit of heat into it. and this is the key to making it all work. I am sold on this and truely recomend you call their tech line and talk to them about it for your car. Stiff clutches smash parts - thats the truth and I know it from a very expensive learning curve. RAM also told me that this clutch would be VERY drivable on the street, and that the biggest street use issue would be that I would need to do regular maintanence on it - like checking plate height every couple trips to the track , and maybe surfacing the disc once a season. this seems reasonable to me.
Back to your t-10. the shift into 3 is the weakest point in any trans, and your t-10 will not live with a 250 shot of N2O, powershifted into 3rd gear, without a clutch like this ,that will slip a tiny bit and take the harsh hit out. lastly deep gears are your freind when trying to keep the trans in 1 peice - the deeper the gear the less stress is put on the trans. I would NOT run less than 3.73, even 4.10's.
Whatever you do - do NOT mix a metallic lined disc with a 3000-ish psi pressure plate or your WILL be picking up driveline peices off the track, this I know from experience.
keep me informed, I'd like to hear your progress.

I was told by Centerforce that on the Dual Friction set-up that they are a matched set, due to the disc being reg on one side, and having pads on the other...this is what they said to me about a year ago...they really do hold a lot of power though! Shocked me how easy the pedal pressure is. Maybe not the ultimate race clutch, but for dual duty there great...I highly recomend them!

I was told by Centerforce that on the Dual Friction set-up that they are a matched set, due to the disc being reg on one side, and having pads on the other...this is what they said to me about a year ago...they really do hold a lot of power though! Shocked me how easy the pedal pressure is. Maybe not the ultimate race clutch, but for dual duty there great...I highly recomend them!
I loved my duel friction in my camaro, but like three pedals was saying about the badass clutches, this may be the reason that my m21 only lasted about a week. That and I don't think that the tranny was in that good of shape when I bought it. even though the guy that I had bought it from said it had just been rebuilt.http://www.wichitaracing.com/forums/images/smilies/19retard.gif