I'm having a hard time getting my pilot bearing in and I'm wondering if you freeze it does it make a big difference?

Yeah, it can definately help. Also want to make sure that both the crank and bearing dont have any burrs on them. Lube is a plus also.

There are some small burrs inside the crank from the removal of the old bushing, I had to do some drilling after the puller tool failed. Whats the best way to remove them? They dont feel too bad when you rub your finger on them. Also if the old bronze bushing that was in there was distorted from installation, could that cause the transmission to not be able to access forward gears and a grinding sound when trying reverse?

There are some small burrs inside the crank from the removal of the old bushing, I had to do some drilling after the puller tool failed. Whats the best way to remove them? They dont feel too bad when you rub your finger on them. Also if the old bronze bushing that was in there was distorted from installation, could that cause the transmission to not be able to access forward gears and a grinding sound when trying reverse?
As RamAir Dave suggested, remove the burrs and dust from filing.

If trans was grinding into gear, clutch is not releasing. If trans does go into forward gears and reverse still grinds, a different procedure will be needed.

Step on clutch pedal, select 4th or 5th gear, then shift to reverse, release clutch as normal. This action stops the countershaft from turning before engagement into reverse.

I wasn't able to select any of the forward gears, 4th or 5th either. Without the engine running I was able to access all the gears. When I installed the transmission it didn't bump tight to the bellhousing, and I used the bolts to draw it in tight. I've later learned that you should never use the bolts to draw the two tight together, and also that if you step on the clutch during this time they will slide tight. I have everything apart again, I've decided to use the bearing instead of the bushing and I have it in the freezer now. I also have an old input shaft with a washer to protect the bearing from the splines I plan to use on the install. I've heard some say to use the cut off input shaft on the bushings only, but the guy from the speed shop here loaned it to me and he said thats what he always uses, and thier one of the better shops here in town. I like to have more than one persons advice when I get really stuck in a situation like this. Does it sound like I'm on the right track?

The freezer MAY be enough...we used to drop bushes etc into housings freezing with a CO2 fire extinguisher...just watch u dont stick to them lol

If it's a brass bushing, drill 3-4 small holes (3/32" perhaps) through it with a good sharp bit. Be carefull not to drill into the crank.

Then you can easily remore the bushing with the usual tool.

Good luck!

After freezing the pilot bearing it installed nicely. The transmission went in smooth, but still no luck on getting any gears. If I put it in gear before I start the engine, I can use that gear. It's a little stiff coming out of that gear (1st or reverse) and then you can't get the next one (2nd or even back into 1st) I have a bleeder screw on one of the rear disc calipers that is leaking some and I've seen that the brake master cylinder has run low enough to pull air into the system. Does the clutch operate from the same master cylinder as the brakes? Could it be that the slave cylinder doesn't have enough pressure to operate the clutch fork properly? I've filled the master cylinder up again but I have not bled the brakes yet. 1984 Z28 TPI 5.0L 5 speed Borg Warner

Does the clutch operate from the same master cylinder as the brakes? Could it be that the slave cylinder doesn't have enough pressure to operate the clutch fork properly? If there is one reservior, yes, clutch master cylinder would get its fluid from the same reservior. If you see two reserviors, clutch system would have its own fluid supply.

Yes, there probably would be air in the clutch fluid line if a single reservior. And, if no air is in the clutch system, the slave cylinder might have enough stroke to disengage the clutch to shift gears.

Just a quick reply, the system did work again after replacing the fork and the ball stud...:hurray: