Alternator Battery Lead [Archive] - Team Camaro Tech

: Alternator Battery Lead


Eric Kammerer
Aug 21st, 06, 09:44 PM
I had a quick question that I am looking for opinions on.

I am using the AAW Update wiring harnesses on my 69. I have read the threads on here regarding the alternator battery lead, and I have read the MAD Electrical info, but I have kind of a different question. I will contact AAW in the morning, but I wanted to see what y'all think.

As seen in the other posts, the AAW Update harness eliminates the horn relay and it's buss bar on the radiator support, in favor of an underdash horn relay and a 12 gage lead with fusable link from the large post on the starter back to the alternator. I still have an exciter wire on the front light harness to deal with, which I will route in the conventional way.

If I use the alternator lead in the way AAW intends, I either have to route the lead:

- alongside the positive battery cable in the clips on the oil pan rail and up the back of the alternator (I'm fine with this, as long as the insulation can take the heat, and I am 90% sure it'll be fine); or

- around the exhaust/up the firewall and take it out and around the top of the passenger inner fender, to join up alongside and be wrapped with the exciter wire.

As an alternative, I am considering just using the junction block to mount the alternator lead. As it stands, I have the AAW repro side-post battery cables, so I have a lead from the positive cable that will go to the junction block anyway. The Update kit doesn't use the junction block at all, so it would be available for the alternator lead.

Can anyone think of the pros or cons of doing it one way versus the other? With an exciter wire running generally in a stock location, I'm thinking it might make more sense to run the alternator lead alongside, and just wrap the two together as original. One wire wrapped up seems a little goofy, and the exciter wire is too visble to be unwrapped, IMO.

Everett#2390
Aug 22nd, 06, 05:15 AM
If its a 3-wire alt, there should be 3 wires, BAT, exciter from the ign switch and the gauge/GEN light wire.

Wrap all three together about the fender/exciter route. Myself, the shorter route with the least amount of connections means less points of connections to erode later, and less current losses due to longer wire runs. But, running cables neatly is the key.