So I've been following the "How to Paint" series in Hot Rod Magazine. This past month was all about picking the materials. Toward the end of the article, they quoted a few paint and body gurus regarding which brand they liked the best. It seems like everyone has their own opinion on the issue, but I really didn't get too much information as to why they chose what they did (besides pretty much a blub about how easy it is to lay down). I'm looking to repaint my '68 Camaro and would like something durable. I know a harder finish might be harder to cut and buff, but I'd rather put more elbow grease in and get a finish that will last. What brand paint do you all recommend?

Also, in the HRM article, one painted recommended a single stage paint for solid base colors and dual stages for effects, candies and metallics. From what I gathered, his reasoning was that single stage paints can get a deeper job since there is minimal time to cut and buff between the first and second stages in a dual stage job. I'd like a two stage paint job because the article suggested more longevity. Couldn't a retarder be added to the basecoat to give more time between the laying of the base and clear? I'd like a nice, deep finish but don't want durability to suffer. I like the idea of the extra UV protection and general durability of a two stage paint job. Any comments?

If you ask 10 "professional" painters one question you'll get 10 different answers. I use Dupont,He uses PPG, that primer sucks,ect........ So do some research and come up with a paint line your happy with. Get one of their 200 page tech manuals and read up on all their products from primers to clears. Come up with a game plan and stick with it. In my opinion all major paint manufacturers have good products.They also all have cheaper not so good products. Its not rocket science,so do your homework and you should be able to achieve excellent results with a little common sense and patience. Knowledge is the next best thing to experience......So get reading.
with that said..........

DUPONT IS THE BEST :thumbsup: ALL OTHERS SUCK :D





bob

The reason there are so many opinions about brand is what Hot Rod and the paint gurus dont tell you. Paint shops are approached by paint companies IE PPG, Shermin Williams, Dupont, and some of the better brands like Spies Heckler, Valspar/Debeers, and Glasurit and are asked to use their brand (sign a contract) and in return the paint companies will facilitate the shop with expensive equipment IE: full down draft booth, heaters, and other equipment. Now, they dont approach a lot of custom/restoration type shops becuase usually their product usage is lower than a regular production type shop (collision work) However, when they see an up and coming shop (custom/restoration shop) getting a lot press and attention they may approach that shop for more of a advertising value than material usage.
When we began to paint cars we used PPG and then approached by Shermin Williams which we didnt care for. We were then contacted by Valspar/Debeers which is also part of House Of Color. We began to paint Debeers and unfortunately they never provided the equipment as promised. So, we finally settled in with Spies Heckler which is a high end paint and we are totally happy with the end product and so are our customers.
Sal
American Muscle Cars Inc.

All the major brands like PPG, DuPont, Sikkens, Inmont,etc are good. You should have acceptable results with all of them. Just use one manufacturer for all the paint products, don't mix.
The reason for basecoat/clearcoat on candies and metallics is precisely because of sanding. You would not want to go through the layers of metallic when color sanding because you would see "rings" of each layer. Solid colors, on the other hand, do not cause that problem.
I use PPG only because a friend of mine was a tech rep for them and helped me through a couple of problems. I don't think, overall, that PPG is any better or worse than any others, it is just I have become familiar with that line.
A PPG clear that I use is Concept 2042. It is durable and sands well. I am a hobbiest like you and I am not in the bodyshop business, yet my paint jobs have won best of show (okay, once). The great jobs are in the prep. Great shine come from flat surfaces starting with the body. I may apply 10 - 12 coats of primer surfacer and block sand them down before the surface is where I want it. After that, it is color sanding the final paint application making the surface flat and removing the fine scratches sanding leaves behind.
Hope this helps. Good luck on your project.

www.southernpolyurethanes.com

They don't have a lot of base colors but will be adding many more in the coming months.

Great products, great customer service, great prices! :thumbsup:

A word of caution..these new 2 pot paint systems are isocyanate based.
If u are doing a
single job as a 'hobbist'...u will still require the remote breathing apparatus...
A lot of emphassis is place on these new systems...dont let the marketing propaganda put u off the old laquer systems. These are very forgiving for the newbie, a screw up is easy fixed, and any orange peel etc sands out and buff ups nice. With care they have very good finish and last as long.
The big thing with isocyanate paints in a commercial enviroment, is the turn around time in the shop. The time to cure in the booth and as they flow like the old enamals (depends on the skill behind the gun) there is not need for final blocking out.

I recently saw a similar question answered by MARTINSR, whose opinion I respect much, and I believe he hit the nail on the head. Heres what he said basically...when it comes to choosing a paint brand, especially for a hobbyist, its very important to find a dealer/distributor whose employees are knowledgeable, helpful, and able to answer your questions and help you out, whether its DuPont, PPG, or any other brand (that IS what you said, wasnt it, Brian? lol). Because like Bob said, each brand has its strong (and weak) points, but personally, I consider it even more important to have good customer service, which is precisely why I use PPG stuff. Just my 1½ cents worth.

:), that is what I said. To try to study up on every product they have and decide for yourself is asking WAY too much. Getting some basic information and suggestions and understanding just that basic info is all you need.

As for adding the retarder to the base, no, NO, NO, you don't ever do something like that because the base will not flash off and you will trap solvents between the base and the clear. FOLLOW THE TECH SHEETS on the product you are using and you will be just fine. The base has anywhere from 24 hours to seven full days to top coat with clear depending on manufacture.

Brian