I plan on using a Base/Clear paint on my 68 Camaro. I plan to take the trunk, hood, header, valence and extensions off the car to paint separately. I was thinking of starting painting at a front corner of the car and working my way around the car, but I'm not sure about how to work the roof into the sequence. I don't know how fast these new paints dry and I want to avoid dry spots (unless that all sands out of the clear coat and it doesn't matter). I was thinking of working my way down the first side of the car doing the door and rear quarter, and then starting up the sail panel and doing half of the roof. Then do the tail panel and then go to the other side and finish the other half of the roof, down the sailpanel and then the other quarter door and fender. I don't know if I would end up messing up the roof if I wait a couple of minutes going from one side to the other (doing the tailpanel). How fast do these Base/Clear paints dry? Is it possible to avoid dry spots when you come to the point where you either have to go up the sail panel and do the roof, or continue around the back of the car? Can any of you give me some advice on the best path around the car? Thanks!

If you have a high speed internet connection.

Here are a couple of videos of a paintjob on a Mopar being painted at our shop. I don't know if they'll be of any help to you at all tho.

http://www.musclecarrestorations.com/video/69%20Super%20Bee%20Paint.wmv
http://www.musclecarrestorations.com/video/69%20Super%20Bee%20Paint%202.wmv
http://www.musclecarrestorations.com/video/69%20Super%20Bee%20Clear.wmv

I'm not going to say this is the only right way,but i've painted hundreds of cars this way and it always works for me. So yes....It must be the right way:thumbsup:

I start on the drivers side CENTER of the roof and come out and down the sail panel and stop at the top of the quarter.Go to the other side and repeat this process.I then do the trunk and rear body panel,left quarter,right quarter,left door,right door,left fender,right fender,hood. Everyone does it different,and there is no wrong way as long as the results speak for themselves ;)

The main objective is to keep the base/clear looking uniform and even with no dry overspray. My booth reaches temps in the low 100's in the mid summer, So you gotta move fast. :D


bob

Thanks for the information guys. The videos were good to watch. Bob, how long would you say a person has to get back over to the other side of the car in order to prevent a dry spot on the car. My past painting experience was always enamel and it stayed relatively wet for a several minutes so you could go back and pick up where you left off without a dry spot. Also, do the clear coats cover up dry spots in the base color coat? I figure that dry areas in the final clear coat can be sanded out - is that correct?
Thanks.