From my previous posts you will see I'm helping a deaf kid fix his 70 Nova's floorpan. Well one thing led to another now his car is stripped down and ready for paint. He bought lacq. primer and acrylic enamel for the color coat. This is what he could afford.
I have never painted a car with enamel. I see they make clearcoat for enamels but how do you use it ? Do you let the enamel dry completely before clearing or just let it flash off ? Please help I'm ready to get back to my 69 camaro project.:clonk: :clonk:

I wouldn't clear it, but I would add hardener to it. If you really want to clear it, read the tech sheet on the paint.

I used a high gloss hardener on my last car -- not sure about clearcoat -- agree wtih go2fast that tech sheet is the best source for that info

Use the right thinners for the weather conditions..
The enamel takes a good 12 to 24 hrs to dry, and then another week or to to harden up...just ve careful working around it over this period.
To spray
1st a liitle less thinners, and a even coat so can just see thru .
2nd coat...finger test...touch 1st coat with the finger...it should pick up and sort of lift like elastic after about 20 to 30 mins depending on humdity and air temp. If in doubt leave a little longer.
The 2nd coat has a little more thinners to make the paint flow out like water...compele 'flow' takes about 12 hrs. Cover well and even.
The 1st coat acts as a sticker to the 2nd coat, this stops hangs and runs when enamel is sprayed on thicker.
Spray in a booth or sealed dust free room, as soon as u have finishe, get out and close the door carefully, and do not disturb for 12 hrs.
Enamel is very prone to hanging and runs, espec on areas like the rear pillars and loweer front/back panels if laid on to thick.
The finished job doent need blocking off as the paint has flowed out to a smooth finish. Any blocking will kill the final finish...polish after 4 to 6 weeks
You best chioce would have to been to use a lacquar sustem..
Hi build under coat (2 to 3) blocking in between
Laquar colour, 3 to 4 coats, the last wet (more thinners) almost as soon as the previous coat is finished.
2 layers of Clear with peril whatever in the 1st
Block off with 1200 then 1800, buff...polish a couple weeks later.
Laquar is hard to get a run and far more forgiving....ideal for the hobbist enviroment, lasts well if preparation is good, and cheap.


If in

Spring for hardner if available. Like Steptoe said, enamel has a very long flash time and will keep moving for days and is soft a week later. There's almost nothing you can do to correct an error for 8+ weeks after you spray it.

Can you use the lacquer priner under the enamel without problems ?

Yes - that was standard procedure "back in the day."

Yes, the rule is enamel can go over lacquer,but not vice-versa,as the strong solvents in lacquer can attack the underlying surface and cause it to delaminate (lift & peel).

If the color is metallic I would suggest a base clear or a laquer.
Heavy metallics in enamels seem to get either a mottled look... from trying to get it wet enough or they end up dry sprayed....
Laquer is so much easier.

If u are not an experianced painter or not experiamnced in enamels do not use metallic enamel....it is very prone to hanging and runs.

My experience is with basecoat/ clear and NOT enamel. And sorry to say it is metallic. I'm still trying to talk the kid into buying a basecoat/ clearcoat . So if I can't talk him into that how would a person paint with lacquer ? Maybe I could get him to meet me halfway on it. I know I'm asking alot of questions but when you learn one system from the start it's hard to change.

I've never had any trouble spraying enamel metallics. You just need to mist the final coat to even-up the metallic. I don't like laquer. It doesn't have good gloss and it's very easy to damage.

If you can get hardner for the enamel, you'll avoid problems with runs and sags. If you spray straight enamel, put it on a little light. What will look like orange peel when you're done spraying will flow out over a period of 24 hours. And pulling back to 3' on your last coat is a good idea too.

Do some test panels to learn it. I recall that I transitioned from AE+hardner to BC/CC with no problems, so going backward should be no problem. Straight enamel is the pits and is only a half notch up from spraying rustoleum on the car.

My experience is with basecoat/ clear and NOT enamel....... So if I can't talk him into that how would a person paint with lacquer ?

If u have experiance on basecoat clear...m8 dont fret laquar lol u will find it a walk in the park...even if u try to get a run or hang I doubt if u will lol.

I don't like laquer. It doesn't have good gloss and it's very easy to damage.

The gloss is as good as 2 pots..If the finished clear is wet sanded and buffed well...where the difference lays is the the refactive index..Adding 1/4 to 1/3 powder peril to 1st coat of clear(same stuff used on ladies eyes..makeup) per gun makes a huge difference.
Chiping/damage...use the right system paints and not a problem...
The advantage with laquar, its is simple to buff out small damage, and blending works well...unlike 2 pots where a full panel or side has to be redone.
2 pots, if sanded and buffed will never get the same gloss, refective finish as a job that is sprayed and flowed.
As I stated above, the only real reason for 2 pots is commercial turn around time in the booth and labour to block.
This is also the opinions of the technical director in NZ for PGR.

if you use a hardener you can sand and buff it in a few days and recoat if needed. Enamel with a hardener was king in tha late 80's early 90's and it can look great. This was my last enamel job about three years ago.
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a214/shoddy_f-body/2002_0614_191219AA.jpg