anyone have any experience with a product like this

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2D670136&N=700+4294923429+4294920534+115&autoview=sku

that's just an example I grabbed of summitracing, but I was wondering if anyone has ever used cutouts like these or has any info on them.....seems alot easier than pulling the exhaust system at the track if there is no real big downfalls....thanks, Jeff

The relative performance level of opening a cutout will depend largely on the efficiency of the normal exhaust system. You can arrive at performance about equal to open headers with a properly designed system.

Hey Jeff, Jeff here. I have them on my 68 camaro. There good and bad. Good because it takers 2 minutes to open the exhaust and it sounds good. The bad is you cannt really aim them any other way then down or slightly down which kills the g clearance. I have them on and they are the reason my exhaust is f'd up. read here : http://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21642

if your not able to get in then let me know and ill copy and paste.

ahh, thanks Jeff, never took that into consideration at all. I think I have lots of ground clearance, but I'd have to make sure, thats an exellent point I'd never have thought of. I'm just wondering if they'd work as well as pulling the whole exhaust at the track...which is a big pain. We dynod my motor after build with open headers, not in the car, and I'm scared I'm losing alot with my exhaust system....it's only 2.25 inch with 50 series flowmasters,, although I love the sound of the car I'd like a way to reach my potential at the track....thanks again, Jeff

A 3" system will be plenty with good "straight thru" mufflers! and will not hurt power.

good to know,,, but a couple cutouts are much cheaper than a whole new exhaust, and the pocketbook says no to the exhaust, lol. Plus I'm really really happy with the sound of my system so I'm probably gonna leave it as is. So that still leaves me with only 3 options at the track, pull the whole exhaust, run the exhaust and sacrifice some power, or install the cutouts if they are any good.....Jeff

A good exhaust will only cost maybe .1 if left on.

Have a set of these on a WS6 TransAm Bird,, motor valve acuated.. Flip the switch on , cops how up , filp again.

Motor driven dumps roll open with a switch in 3 seconds.We install them all the time for stealth to killer noise.Like previously mentioned,a well designed exhaust system will not require you to rejet the carb.What works on the street changes at the track with open exhaust.I would hate to see you drain the pistons out on your next oil change.

I can tell you that my exhaust has aboout .03-.05 difference in the 1/8 with cutouts open over my "summit" mandrel bent 2.5" exhaust with dynomax ultraflos

My car would be faster with cutouts than it is now.
http://www.67rs-ss.net/my67/dolly/dollyleft1.jpg

My car would be faster with cutouts than it is now.
http://www.67rs-ss.net/my67/dolly/dollyleft1.jpg


Cut outs??? rear quarters or floor ? :D lol

Cut outs??? rear quarters or floor ? :D lol

Thanks :D I was disappointed thinking no one thought that was funny or had just missed it :thumbsup:

I like them cause the car sounds awesome at the track! LOL

I added 2" dia., by 6" long pipe nipples at the the bends into the drive shaft pointed straight back on my exhaust pipes and capped them with pipe caps and dog chains so I wouldn't loose them.

Worked great but over time the crap in the exhaust would harden up in the threads and I would have to go to my old Blacksmith Buddy and have him use his touch on them to break them loose!

pdq67

Jeff
I have those Summit cutouts and am also trying to decide whether to put them on or not because of the ground clearance. My 67 is stock now but will be lowered 2" and the bottom of the cutout is about 6" below the bottom of the frame. I have a 2 1/2" flowmaster system that should be pretty effecient without the cutouts. But like someone else said, they will sound cool at the track.
Undecided!

I just ordered a couple of electric cutouts from www.dmhperformance.com his name is Dave. Very nice guy..I have a clearance issue also with the vert so I went with a couple of Warlock mufflers and mounted the electric cutout with a turn down right on the muffler. If you check on my web site Dave sent me a picture of how it mounts up. I don't have them on yet but they look very nice. My brother-inlaw has them and it sounds wicked. I would say just like a nascar if you ever heard one.

How do the Warlocks sound capped?

I don't have them on right now so I can't tell you how they sound.I have turbo mufflers on my car now so from the reviews I read it will sound close to the same. More of a deeper tone unlike the tinny Flowmaster. I'm looking for a quiet muffler anyway. When the wife and kid isn't around thats when the electric cutouts come into play. I'll let everyone know when it's done around a month or two.

http://www.carreview.com/cat/parts/exhaust/mufflers/Flowtech/PRD_2103_2872crx.aspx
http://www.spiderautomotive.com/warlock.html
http://www.holley.com/types/Warlock.asp

no fiberglass or stamped seams to blow out.
It looks like the only complaint is the paint...

I have them.(my ride is an old drag car I made into a not quite street legal ride) I measured my open exhaust collector length. I installed the cut outs so I ended up with that same length but with an upward angle since my original collectors were angled down. My race flowmasters come next, followed by downward dumps. It all comes out before the tire. It does hang low, but so does my big pan. Sounds awesome. I have not run them opened yet, but it will be very easy when I want to shatter windows. A very easy home project or carry in to a muffler shop. For support I bought 2 big U clamps from the hardware store and clamped them tight against the body. My driveshaft hoop has a bracket right there to bolt to. My car has no motor mounts so who care about another vibration.All go for me, no show!.

I've been thinking of the electric cutouts for my '68 as well, but I'd change them up somewhat from what I've seen most people doing. I'd put the opening valve on the straight back piece of the "Y" so when they are open there is no interferance with the branch and all the exhaust would go straight out the back. I would have the branches pointing inward and use them to tie into a "X" cross over. All connections would be the 3 bolt flange type so I can easily remove for Transmission/driveshaft access. This way would give me the better exhaust system for the street and a true open header system for the track (or a neat little noise show when the authorities are elsewhere), all with a simple flick of a switch. And shouldn't have a clearance issue either. Just my two cents on the matter. By the way nice to be back on this site, I havn't been doing too much for the last year since I had an issue with the old ticker. But all seems to be well now. Cheers !!!