View Full Version : My new lower ball joints are loose in my old control arms...


JIM68
Sep 6th, 06, 04:48 PM
They are so loose that they can spin. Can they be sleeved? Any other options? I got the ball joints from Rick's.

nashcar
Sep 6th, 06, 07:57 PM
I got mine from Rick's and they are tight. Maybe it's you're A frames.

RamAirDave
Sep 6th, 06, 08:16 PM
Could be the control arm like mentioned. Do both sides fit loose?

Several weeks ago, I needed a lower ball joint in a pinch (jammed the other while pressing it in :clonk: ). Picked up a Duralast part at AZ. Wasnt even close, waayyy too small diameter. P/N on the part matched the box and the listing in the computer. Just made wrong I suppose.

JIM68
Sep 6th, 06, 09:39 PM
One would need pressing the other i can palm push it in, but then it spins. The ball joints measures about 2.0005" and the loose control arm measures 2.001" to 2.002" at the top of the taper. I think I'll try to wrap the balljoint with some .002" shim stock and try to press them together. I think I should have at least .001" of interferance for a good fit.
My control arms are original and I'm sure the ball-joints have been replaced multiple times before I got the car which I'm sure opens the control arms alittle

davidpozzi
Sep 6th, 06, 10:53 PM
You can buy a circle track weld in ring that fits a chrysler screw-in balljoint. There is one chrysler lower BJ that fit's a camaro spindle.

JIM68
Sep 7th, 06, 09:03 AM
any other ideas????
Has anyone ever shimmed their ball joints to fit?

bretcopsey
Sep 7th, 06, 09:10 AM
I think a typical 'repair' for this is to tack weld the ball joint in place. I suppose adding the shim couldn't hurt.

go2fast
Sep 7th, 06, 05:09 PM
I think a typical 'repair' for this is to tack weld the ball joint in place. I suppose adding the shim couldn't hurt.

I've tacked them in before and never had a problem, but I think some of them have nylon seat surfaces now.

JIM68
Sep 7th, 06, 08:26 PM
I ended up shimming it with a few pieces if .0015" shim stock wrapped around the ball joint.... guess I'll have to keep an eye on it after I get the car rolling.

BonzoHansen
Sep 7th, 06, 08:28 PM
Maybe I don't have enough experience, but I'm not sure I'd trust that. I've never had to do that.

JIM68
Sep 7th, 06, 10:11 PM
see the shim?
http://www.camaro327.com/000/joint.JPG

acac
Sep 7th, 06, 10:26 PM
I had the same problem and posted it about a week ago. The new joints I got in the rebuild kit from classic slid right in loose. Someone recomended moog joints, I got them and they need pressing taking care of my problem. They thought my classic joints were from over seas and not made to specs. Dont know, but the moog worked. Good luck.

jet_car2000
Sep 8th, 06, 08:22 AM
I agree get the moog joints,, the chrysler joints will work but you got to get the ring welded right or there will be alignment issues. you will also need a reamer to ream the spindles out for them,,we used both upper and lower chryler joints on our dirt track cars for the lager stud.
Frank

JIM68
Sep 8th, 06, 08:36 AM
anyone have the moog joint out to measure them??? the passenger side pressed in just fine, it was just the driver side that was loose for some reason...

77thor
Sep 8th, 06, 10:33 AM
I believe MOOG makes one slightly larger to solve this problem....
after they have been replaced 2 or 3 times the holes can become enlarged

Camuchi
Sep 8th, 06, 11:16 AM
Fixed mine years back by taking the ball joint and securing in a vice and dimpling with a center punch in numerous spots around circumference. Then pressed it in and two small tack welds for piece of mind-done. Those were Moog parts if I recall -was done in 1985 or so
-Matt