So I found this local engine builder that is licensed and will build an engine pretty much how ever you want it. Of course he has his preferred standard of parts he uses, trusts, and had good results with. I need advice one two things. I’ll list the engine specs below and the price and you guys can let me know if this is a fair deal. Then since I’ll be going from a 327 to a 383 I need to know the parts I possibly can reuse.

4 Bolt Main block fully prepped, KB Hypereutectic Pistons, New Forged Eagle Rods, New Eagle Stroker Crankshaft, .480-.520 LIFT CAM with a 230@.50 Dur, GM Performance Iron heads with 2.02” Stainless Valves. 1.6 rockers, Balanced and blueprinted, New Oil Pan, Timing Cover, Dampner, Flexplate, 9.5 compression 400 HP @ 5600 RPM. All this for $2995

The heads that come with this engine are just a factory set of GM iron heads worked over to flow better then they did. However for a grand more he will include a set of Pro Top line Alum heads. I have reads all the comments on this forum about these heads and Im glad I did because I immediately called this guy on them and said he only gets the newest built heads and haven’t had any problems with them, IE accessory bolts not fitting, and the other problems listed. He feels these heads flow very well and uses them on his own car so he feels good using them on his customers builds. So add another $1000 to get these heads and other 50+ HP.

So what do you guys think on this build?

Then Im learning already from reading on this forum through searches and what I have talked to the builder about, there is a lot of parts Im going to still have to buy that I cant reuse from my 327. Such as the obvious, new intake, and card. Then the not so obvious.

-he says I can reuse my current fly wheel since its not balanced right for a 383 and how the engine currently will be balanced.
-my water pump is a short based one off the 327 and it doesn’t sound like it will fit over the 383’s timing cover. So Im hoping I can buy a new short pump that will work with the 383 so I can still reuse my current accessory brackets since I bought the whole power steering conversion kit that Im swamping over to at the same time.

So it looks like there is a bunch of little stuff after I have the 383 in that might come up before I get it all together. Is there anything else Im missing here?

Sorry for the long write up, I just want to make sure what Im getting myself into before I buy this engine. Thanks as always for the help.

"eagle crank" could be one of perhaps 8 different parts #'s, which one?

"eagle rods" could be one of perhaps 14 different part #'s.

What rod length?

Will this engine be internally or externally balanced?
If internal, you can use your existing flexplate.

Timing cover, if it's stock type, should fit with either long or short water pump. I'd recommend staying with the configuration that is factory for your car, short for 67-68, long for 69.

Your list of parts is VERY generic, completly non specific. No way I would settle for less than know exactly what's going in there.

You can use your 327 block if you want.

You can re-use the entire top end, including cam and lifters, heads, distributor, intake, all accessories, fuel pmup, etc.

Your intake and carb will swap over from the 327. Its only when using big port racing heads (ports won't seal) or vortec heads (different bolt pattern) that you run into issues.
Most lower priced stroker setups are externally balanced, which is really no big deal. You just have to be sure and use the right balancer and flywheel/flexplate.
Waterpump should not be an issue. Either style will fit nearly every timing cover. Use the short one if thats what you are set up for.
There *might* be starter issues, if the bolt patterns are different between the 327 and the new 383. In this case just get the correct bolt pattern starter (straight pattern vs. staggered pattern).

I got my bottom end all ordered and on its way. Now I need to decided what Cam Im going to run in this 383. This way I can determine what compression ratio I want to run and order the appropiate head configurations and pistions.

Im not looking for a radical cam. This car will be driven as a cruiser with maybe one trip to the track a year. Therefore I dont want a very rough idle that wont run as good as a like cruising around town.

So where is the balance that gives me something not to rough and something meaner then a smooth idle?

I was looking at the voodoo 268 when I was going to rebuild my 327. Will this cam be too mild for the 383? Ive read any cam around the 230@.050 range should be about right. The only cam that comps makes that would fit what Im Looking for is one of the Extreme energy cams which I hear put more wear and tear on the engine and Im not looking to have any thing in my engine that shortens the life of.

Any other suggestions.

Comp cams also has their older (but still excellent IMO) magnum grinds. You would want the 280 magnum. Its 230@.050, .480" lift, on 110 lsa. It is noticeable but not too radical, and power brakes will still work with this cam.