David Pozzi's (http://www.pozziracing.com/camaro_spring_info.htm#SPRINGS) site recommends lower, but I've also read upper on camaros.net...
Seems like to majority says upper...
What have you guys done are there any reasons behind all this?

I seated mine on the upper. Later i look in this camaro book chiltens i think and they show it on lower. Will the springs find their own place or what problems can occur if the springs are seated wrong whatever that is.

I believe the "problem" with the 6308's is that the ends of the springs end in a different orientation than the original springs.

from pozzi's web site:
#6308 has the ends a little shorter than a standard spring and will work fine, the ends will just be a little short of filling the spring pocket top and bottom. I'd try positioning it to fill the lower spring pocket and let the top sit where it may.
Looking down from the top of the spring, a stock spring would have the lower end of the coil at the 12 O'clock position in the lower A frame. The upper end would be at the 10 O'clock position. With #6308, the upper end would be closer to the 12 O'clock position. I have been told the ride height may be a half inch lower than before. I have no personal experience wtih these springs, just talked to people on the web about them.

http://www.camaro327.com/000/6308vsStocks.jpg

Whatever you do, - do the same to both sides.

The 67-69 Fbody spring locating hole is in the FRAME, UPPER.

Many other GMs have the locating hole in the lower arm.

The end of the spring must be visible through the hole, per GM service manual (not Chiltons).

Once you have the spring out, it should be painfully obvious that the spring must be properly located in the frame. If it is not painfully obvious, call a mechanic.

I spent considerable time with my 6308's and did it twice. I seated mine on the botttom then actually rotated it with a spring compressor. They do not quite reach the upper sight hole, but are seated. They need to be the same side to side. See how my car site with them.

http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=89259

Well I just got done with the install and they went in perfectly to the upper arms. I can see the top of the spring thru the .25" diameter sight hole on both sides. I'm surprised how easy they went in.

pictures:
Insert washers and threaded rod from topside shock mount:
http://www.camaro327.com/000/1s.JPG
Install double hook bracket, then install spring with end seated in upper spring pocket:
http://www.camaro327.com/000/2s.JPG
Install safty chain and then compress spring to ~5.5" exposure, carefully persuade spring into lower pocket & secure lower ball joint:
http://www.camaro327.com/000/3s.JPG
http://www.camaro327.com/000/4s.JPG

Voila:
http://www.camaro327.com/000/5s.JPG

I have a question or two for ya ...

I noticed you did this while there was no engine in the car ... Great ...

I have many new front suspension parts as well as a brake kit to add and need to remove the front springs and then re-install them ...

I currently don't have my engine in the car either ...

Can I use this same method for removing and installing the springs without the engine weight in there? I assume so ...

Any tricks or issues I should be aware of?

Also, what name brand or model is that spring compressor as well as the chain that you used ... I've seen a couple posts of a JCWhitney model that looks very similar to this ...

Thanks ...

I was a little knotty , I just cut the new spring to mach the old spring, to lower the car too. And I like the way it sets too.

Be sure not to torque everything till it has weight on it. It could bind and not let the car set right/level.

I rented the spring compressor from autozone....

i bought the rubber coated chain from Lowe's...

tips:
use a ratchet and socket to turn the spring compressor nut.
get a second person.

Be sure not to torque everything till it has weight on it. It could bind and not let the car set right/level.

Hmmmmmmmmm do you mean the ball joints too??? :confused:

I torqued those down right away...

no, your ball joints are fine torqued and pinned now, the only places you will have problems are where bushings pivot (lower control are to frame, upper arm to cross bar, sway bar, etc.)

ok that's what i thought...