Any issues with the hard line coming out of the MC and bending up to about the top of the MC itself? I'm thinking it creates a possible place for trapped air. Will gravity cause the line to bleed back into the MC? I know fluid seeks it's own level in an open system. Will it do the same every time I open the reservoir lid? The hard line may be just above the full level of the reservoir.

I removed the dist valve from my c5/c4 4w disc's, plumbed the front lines through a brass T and the rear through the Wilwood adj prop valve. In doing this, I reused a small section of hard line to go from the prop valve to the MC, it's the piece that goes up. I can bend and flair a new piece but don't have any scrap laying around. Thought I'd get some others thoughts before bleeding the brakes... Thanks,

If at all possible the lines should be routed below the level of the fluid in reservoir if nothing else for aesthetic reasons. Having said that, once the lines are bled there is no way air can enter a tight system no matter how high that line is above the reservoir.

Lots of factory cars have high points in their brake system where the caliper/wheel cylinder and master are below these points (particularly floor mounted masters). It does create a spot for air to be trapped, but it can be bled out. It just makes it more difficult.

Thanks guys... Steve as for aesthetics it works well as it puts the adj prop valve in a good place. It's also temporary, I plan to bend all new hard lines but not until I'm happy with the combination of hardware. I need to decide if I am staying manual or putting the booster back into play.

Dennis- What master cylinder are you using?

67 Camaros with manual front disc brakes came with 1 inch MC’s as did 67-76 Corvettes with manual 4 wheel disc brakes. The small bore MC develops more pressure (in the lines not on your foot) to compensate for not having a booster or the self energizing action of drum brakes.

My 67 came equipped with manual front disc brakes with a 1” MC and the pedal pressure is about the same as a manual 4 wheel drum brake car. I am happy with the setup.

It's the Touring-Classic's provided 1" bore. The pedal feel is actually not bad. When I installed the big brakes I left the stock dist block and I think there is a problem with it now not letting enough pressure to the front brakes. I have an after market disc/disc dist block but this was easier to plumb the way I went. I know a lot of guys are running the 15/16 bore and I have the option to try it if I want. So far I haven't found the pedal too hard though with the 1".

Bad pic:
http://www.camaros.net/pnwcc/DjD/PICT2603a.JPG

When I was testing some different m/c's on my bird I had a pair of gauges hooked up above the master. I had to bleed them at the top, but there was no flow going on there.
http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/7033/gaugesjv8.th.jpg (http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/7033/gaugesjv8.jpg)

I took out the gauges when i was finished but still have the line and T for the rear brakes 'cause i'm lazy, and it's at least as high as yours. I bled it at the plug on top of the T just to be sure ;) No air that i noticed. I've had the lid off since then too with no issues (and no residual valve).

I had to bleed those gauges with each m/c swap though (5 of them).

Dennis, as said, once the system is bled, fluid level won't change. Remember the trick of placing your finger over the straw in the soda, then pulling out the straw? Soda stays in the straw, same principle applies.

ABS systems are pressure bled, all air is gone until the system is opened up, then atmospheric pressure takes over.

Another trick to remove air is place a vacuum onto the master cylinder reservior. Donahue's team did this during the Trans Am races to change brake pads during pit stops and was killing the competition.